Replacement Front Latch

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Door handle and lock are main stealer only, pre-coded to the vehicle, so would be plug n play. Forget second-hand....will not wrk! If it gets deeper, i.e. door outstation (ecu) then your into coding issues.
 
I'm new to all this repair myself and the names of things, so you'll have to excuse my ignorance. it's the whole lock mechanism that needs replacing... i think.

There's a rod inside the door that goes up to the lock connected by 2 plastic bits and they keep popping apart so the lock won't work.

The problem is the key code lockouts on so i can't turn it off using the code. The lights don't even flash when doing this.
 
Why not order the plastic fittings? or have you already... it's going to be a lot less money, sure someone on here has the part you want, i posted one off before christmas to a fellow owner F.O.C. its a common fault. the latch assembly is well over £100 from the stealers.

Where your located? it helps as someone close on here may be able to pop over to help you out. :)
 
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From memory the drivers lock has two rods and a cable connection the cable does the internal door handle and the two rods do the key mechanism and the other the sill button rod - the connections are for the key rod at the key end it is held into the lock by a metal clip and at the lock end there is an eye hole that the rod twists into neither of these can really just pop out now on the sill rod there is a plastic connector that can pop out but this would not affect the eKA input as the key rod hits a separate microswitch - you need to test the lock by taking of the doorcard etc have a look here

P38 Range Rover Cntral Locking Door Lock Actuator Key Switch Test Part 1-P38 Range Rover Electrical Common faults and Fixes
Also if you have to remove the lock actuator from the door slacken take all the bolts out of the door handle first as the tab on the lock that the rod fixes to snaps really easily and then it is a new handle and changing lock barrels which I have done but it is a fiddle
 
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