P38A Replace water pump

Grrrrrr said:

Depends how new your rad is. It is tight in there and you don't want to damage the cooling fins. If they're already flattened a bit then might as well go for it.

@rrdt - not me. Never failed on me yet.

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RangeRoller dt said:

If you are familiar leave it in. It is easier to see what’s what if you take it out, not big a job as it seems but as mentioned it depends if it’s fragile or not.

I had to change rad anyhow as when my pump blew @ 138,000 odd miles it ejected through the recently fitted new rad
1st new rad was a good one, 2nd time I fitted Br**part as all I could afford, made it lot easier with it out although I was weary as with manual transmission I didn’t want to disturb the oil pipes too much

Pump bolts aren’t to tight, just be gentle.

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Datatek said:

You do have to remove the cowl and to do that you have to remove the viscous fan, then there is sufficient roof to do the pump. I put a piece of hardboard over the rear face of the RAD to protect it while doing the pump.

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tarphenry said:

STOP MAKING HARD WORK OF A SIMPLE JOB

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Salisbury Nick said:

Thanks - I'm getting the impression I need to be REALLY careful with the pump bolts.

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RangeRoller dt said:

Not particularly but they torque up something like 8 - 10 (maybe??) nm - check RAVE get the picture in your head and all the exact settings you need, like torque settings.

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tomcat59alan said:

The trouble is they can corrode in the waterpump housing so when you try to undo them you shear the head of the bolt off.I always heat the bolts up first.

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Salisbury Nick said:

The pump arrived yesterday so I'm going up now to fit it. Not sure yet which route I'll go with regard to removing the rad, I'll work that out when I get started. Going to have my head in the engine bay and RAVE in equal measure I suspect - and probably a few posts on here too. Cheers, Nick.

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RangeRoller dt said:

+1 is easier than it seems, once you are in there youll be fine.

If you hit a problem (doubt you will) just stop, take a pic and we will all be here to get you through it .
Gentle with the belt tensioner fulcrum btw, if you have a cheap viscous spanner you are half way to winning already

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RangeRoller dt said:

I didnt buy one either.
Little coppaslip on refit and dont do up too tight will save you a world of pain if theres a next time

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Salisbury Nick said:

Sorry lads - been away for few days.
@Datatek , you must be telepathic! I was just coming back to ask what variety of Hylomar to use - there are dozens of them - but your suggestion of silicone grease, which I keep on hand permanently, answers the question perfectly.
@RangeRoller dt - I don't have a viscous spanner - I'm going to try a 32mm spanner and a hammer first - if that does not work I'll be on here asking if anyone in the area can lend me one!
Nearly gone cuckoo - have struggled with the fan so far but not really had the right tools - so try again later today.

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Salisbury Nick said:

Right you are @wammers - blue Hylomar it shall be!
Do any of you know which bmw car shares the engine version used in the 2.5? I looked in rave but although that tells me all about the bore and stroke - There BMW tools advertised for the viscous fan, typically for say an E34, will these fit the bow in the RR?

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