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- 225
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- Blyth Northumberland
A and B posts and front sill ends
Repairing my 1998 V8
- Thread starter IandiscoV8
- Start date
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- Posts
- 225
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- Blyth Northumberland
Only roof repair as far as I can see
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- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
Front inner wing panels are mostly surface rust so I will treat with rust convertor and paint.
There are 2 holes on N/S inner wing side.
A and B posts lowers just need some rust convertor.
1 small patch needed on the sill near B post N/S.
Sills are in amazing condition except for the rears of course!!
There are 2 holes on N/S inner wing side.
A and B posts lowers just need some rust convertor.
1 small patch needed on the sill near B post N/S.
Sills are in amazing condition except for the rears of course!!
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- 225
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- Blyth Northumberland
Rear inner wing lowers are in remarkable condition
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- 225
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- Blyth Northumberland
Just want to show off how good A posts and front of sills
are
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That looks like it need a few patches and the scabs peeled back and a good rust proof primer and painting then waxoyled to within an inch of it's life and done annually.
- Posts
- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
Yes very lucky indeed.
After seeing some of the D1 rebuilds, the bodies do not fair well.
At least I have a good starting point.
Tempted to lift the body and get the chassis done properly, It will be strong enough once I get the rear end done.
Enough talk lets start making some templates.
Pull all the seam sealer out
After seeing some of the D1 rebuilds, the bodies do not fair well.
At least I have a good starting point.
Tempted to lift the body and get the chassis done properly, It will be strong enough once I get the rear end done.
Enough talk lets start making some templates.
Pull all the seam sealer out
If there’s one thing we all debated doing and I wish I hadve done now I know my build duration is lift the body!!! I didn’t really have the room to do so but wish I hadve. I haven’t any front end chassis rust really but it would’ve been far easier to build up rolling chassis like the defender build.
Not only do you get full access to the rails, you can swap all mounts etc address all suspension and do a real thorough job on re-assembly. I hadn’t hindered me not lifting it off, just a bit frustrating that I couldn’t reach the top of rails to coat and protect and give the whole body a good blast of wax from underneath.
Not only do you get full access to the rails, you can swap all mounts etc address all suspension and do a real thorough job on re-assembly. I hadn’t hindered me not lifting it off, just a bit frustrating that I couldn’t reach the top of rails to coat and protect and give the whole body a good blast of wax from underneath.
Also, get it to a rolling chassis with body aside and you can blast the chassis, degrease the whole lot and get it coated in epoxy primer and a decent top coat. If you haven’t already, have a look at bilt hamber, corrolles (sp), dinitrol, fertan etc and choose your weapons. I’d really recommend electrox primer. Hydrate 80 will do you well for a rust convertor that doesn’t need rinsing off. Go epoxy paints if money permits too as it can flex and isn’t brittle. Bilt hamber epoxy mastic is amazing stuff. My cars painted in about 10 different products in different places and the Bh products are just a step above the rest in my opinion
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- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
resto_d1 thanks for the advice!
I am getting a quote for a city crane to lift the body off - do it correct if I can, I have the space to store the body.
Neighbours maybe not to happy me working on the rolling chassis, although most folks walking past say its a pleasant change watching someone working on their car these days, I do live in a quiet estate haha
I am getting a quote for a city crane to lift the body off - do it correct if I can, I have the space to store the body.
Neighbours maybe not to happy me working on the rolling chassis, although most folks walking past say its a pleasant change watching someone working on their car these days, I do live in a quiet estate haha
Another vote for BH - here a pic of my OS sill - all new 4 years ago, and only treated with BH Dynax s-50 - literally nothing else:-
If you're going to do that, and fair play to you for doing so - I reckon I'd be getting the chassis galvanised whilst you are at it...... tin worms banished for ever = result.
One caution to this - make DAMN sure it's on agreed value insurance afterwards .......
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- 225
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- Blyth Northumberland
Not much work done on the V8, Its been bl..dy cold out, I have been cleaning off the black mastic panel sealer off the bodywork, I need to do this as some of the bodywork is rusty where I have been scraping the black mastic off.
I will finish it tomorrow and get some decent primer on to protect the metal.
I will finish it tomorrow and get some decent primer on to protect the metal.
- Posts
- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
I am using heat and and scraper to get the majority of the mastic off and finishing with some brake cleaner - works a treat, bit over the top but at least I know it will be done correct.
- Posts
- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
Lifting the body?
Well a city type smaller crane is far too expensive £600 - £900 OK..........
Next avenue will be to try and find maybe a Hi Ab or a telehandler local to me.
One of these
Well a city type smaller crane is far too expensive £600 - £900 OK..........
Next avenue will be to try and find maybe a Hi Ab or a telehandler local to me.
One of these
Last edited:
- Posts
- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
OK update on lifting the body off.
Word is if I remove all seats, all the doors and bonnet this can be lifted off by 4-6 strong blokes, asked a mate of mine and he has done it a few times over the years, ball ache is removing the doors and I will have to reinstall temporarily just because there is so many parts removed
I could build/weld up some strong and long axle stands so once it is clear it could be stood on these and the rolling chassis could be moved away.
I have storage space for the body so that's not an issue and the rolling chassis will fit in my garage, this could be worked on over winter in relative comfort and leave the body until springtime and better weather.
better clear the garage then - some motorbikes will be put up for sale then.
Onward
Word is if I remove all seats, all the doors and bonnet this can be lifted off by 4-6 strong blokes, asked a mate of mine and he has done it a few times over the years, ball ache is removing the doors and I will have to reinstall temporarily just because there is so many parts removed
I could build/weld up some strong and long axle stands so once it is clear it could be stood on these and the rolling chassis could be moved away.
I have storage space for the body so that's not an issue and the rolling chassis will fit in my garage, this could be worked on over winter in relative comfort and leave the body until springtime and better weather.
better clear the garage then - some motorbikes will be put up for sale then.
Onward
- Posts
- 225
- Location
- Blyth Northumberland
My other mistress - wont be selling this on soon
Doogendburgh
Member
- Posts
- 10
- Location
- Pittsburgh, Pa
My '98 Epsom Green Discovery was worse than that. I patched it up, and drove it for 5 years, then sold it. Just be sure to check over the chassis. When I went to change my cat converters, I found a huge hole in the frame behind each one. Had to cut out the rust and weld in some steel plate. Check the rear frame on each side of the petrol tank as well
Terry O Sullivan
Active Member
- Posts
- 108
- Location
- Cornwall
I share your addiction. ive got a 3.9 D1 Auto currently down with immobiliser issues, a 4.6 HSE P38 and a 3.5 V8 90.
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