Refurbed 200di into Series 3 with fairey capstan winch

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Hicap phill said:
Is the pump opening up fully?
Only asking as rod to cable mods don’t always equate.
Click to expand...

well the pedal goes too it’s normal stop and I can’t pull the FIP lever any further, I haven’t touched the max throttle stop screw on pump , I don’t know what the revs are when it’s at its stop, is there a cheap way of measuring rpm , it’s got the old series alternator
 
As long as when the pedal is down you are on the FP stop.I'm not sure why this is not pulling.
I would not adjust the fuel or stop yet.

what speed did you used to do?
(Not read all the post)
Have you changed the gearbox?
 
Hicap phill said:
As long as when the pedal is down you are on the FP stop.I'm not sure why this is not pulling.
I would not adjust the fuel or stop yet.

what speed did you used to do?
(Not read all the post)
Have you changed the gearbox?
Click to expand...

thanks I’ll get a new filter first
The series diesel would do about 50 without OD, still using existing gearbox
 
steve2286w said:
Currently not as fast as the series diesel
Was struggling up hill and on flat foot flat down was only getting 40-45mph
Click to expand...

Either, as already said your fuel filter is kaput ......

or .... Given that you have taken the blower off, the VE pump will not fuel to full potential without the pressure from the inlet plenum to activate the fuel plunger .... So, given the number of folk who have done this mod, I'm guessing there is a mod to the diaphragm chamber to deal with this ...... I don't know what it is .... but someone will...
 
new genuine fuel filter on today, I didn’t bleed fully the filter by manual pumping, I turned engine over to help out, I bled at the FIP and that was ok but when started it was running on 3 and a bit smoky , I re bled at filter and FIP manually and getting good spurts of fuel but still running with a misfire
The old pump had a fair amount of sediment in so hopefully that should sort the power loss

If I crack off the injector pipes while running and if fuel comes out does that mean they are bled ok?
And can air in the fuel return rail pipes be bled or would that let more air in if the banjos were cracked off when running
 
Yep you can crack an intector nut to check for fuel. Don’t forget this can spray as under pressure ;)

The air should disappear in the return. If it’s still running bad & you can see air you may have a leak else where.
 
Hicap phill said:
Yep you can crack an injector nut to check for fuel. Don’t forget this can spray as under pressure ;)
Click to expand...

+1 FIP will be chucking out 180 Bar ! So, long series spanner at arms length, gloves, long sleeves, and safety glasses !! And only crack the nut 1/4 turn. Scary pictures here to persuade you to take care.....( and yes, these are from hydraulic oil, which is classed as a light oil in comparison to derv being classed as heavy oil ....)

https://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/our-blog/bid/39816/Danger-of-hydraulic-Oil-Injection-Injuries


Hicap phill said:
The air should disappear in the return. If it’s still running bad & you can see air you may have a leak else where.
Click to expand...

Yep, nailed it again :) ..... I don't know, these diesels are a pain, sucking air all the time, they'll never catch on :D - it's about time "we" invented an injun that runs on air - so much easier ;) :rolleyes: :D
 
Hicap phill said:
Yep you can crack an intector nut to check for fuel. Don’t forget this can spray as under pressure ;)

The air should disappear in the return. If it’s still running bad & you can see air you may have a leak else where.
Click to expand...

Is that seeing air bubbles when injector nuts cracked or elsewhere

learned a lesson ..... get it through MOT before non MOT related tinkering :mad:
 
Last edited:
Disco1BFG said:
+1 FIP will be chucking out 180 Bar ! So, long series spanner at arms length, gloves, long sleeves, and safety glasses !! And only crack the nut 1/4 turn. Scary pictures here to persuade you to take care.....( and yes, these are from hydraulic oil, which is classed as a light oil in comparison to derv being classed as heavy oil ....)

https://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/our-blog/bid/39816/Danger-of-hydraulic-Oil-Injection-Injuries


Yep, nailed it again :) ..... I don't know, these diesels are a pain, sucking air all the time, they'll never catch on :D - it's about time "we" invented an injun that runs on air - so much easier ;) :rolleyes: :D
Click to expand...

thanks for reply and warnings I was aware of the pressures having tinkered on the series injectors however I will skip the link above :eek: as I’ve just had me tea :)
 
Normally tdi self bleed so no need to bleed injectors.
Have you put a bit of clear pipe between
Lift pump & HP?
Diesel filter to lift pump?
This helps to show if bubbles from lift pump or tank.

check/replace the spill off pipes this allows air but does not leak out as not under high pressure.
 
Not tried the clear pipe, most of the pipes are new hard plastic type or the rubber fuel hose with mikalor clips, the only bits not replaced was the bleed off plastic pipe from banjo to no 1 injector and the short leak off pipes between injectors
Prior to changing filter it was running sweet but low on power
When I get some daytime I’ll recheck all connections
There is fuel at each injector when cracked off
 
IMG_6635.JPG


The 8mm bore clear tube worked well and no bubbles so that discounted air leaks?

I pulled out injectors 3 and 4 as cracking the nuts had less of a change to engine note as 1 and 2

IMG_6639.JPG


i cleaned the nozzles and other bits with some brake cleaner and when squirted in gave a good 5 jet spray pattern

they were screwed on quite tight and out them back on tight - is there a torque figure for refitting the injector end cap ?

so still got a smoky misfire, next step to recheck the tappet gaps again and then an engine compression test on all cylinders

strange how only started to get the problem after changing diesel filter

my new toy arrived this week, once i sort the engine issues i can set the idle speed - hope it works £8 delivered!

IMG_6643.JPG
 
steve2286w said:
Engine out:

I took various pics around the engine bay of the wiring connections on the 1984 5MB diesel. pretty much as Haynes manual, took the drivers side wing off to allow access to the battery tray, most of the bits went in the tub, I used little freezer bags to keep sets of bolts in and labelled up otherwise I would have forgot in the time it took to get it fitted
View attachment 194179 View attachment 194182

Next job was to get the oil and grime off bulkhead and bellhousing and touch up the paintwork
I had a few times where the diesel was syphoning from tank when either the suction of return pipes dropped, a golf tee plugs them nicely.
It now the best time to think about cleaning and wrapping the wiring and painting chassis I thought id leave it for another time making it twice as hard

I removed the battery tray itself leaving the tray support on 4 legs, i wanted to keep and as much of the legs as possible took pics all round and measurements from chassis
View attachment 194184 View attachment 194185
The battery tray leg that goes onto the engine mount had to go to get the engine in, this was cut off with thin grinder disc
View attachment 194183


I used the old diesel clutch , the 200tdi plate (on left ) wont fit as input splines are different View attachment 194189
Aligning the 200 to get it engaged on gearbox was an absolute pig tilting engine and gearbox with jacks and bits of wood after 2 days I bought one of these after work and got it in before me tea

View attachment 194190
View attachment 194191
Click to expand...
Yes i could do with getting one of those strong arms for my engine hoist :D
 
steve2286w said:
View attachment 196241

The 8mm bore clear tube worked well and no bubbles so that discounted air leaks?

I pulled out injectors 3 and 4 as cracking the nuts had less of a change to engine note as 1 and 2

View attachment 196242

i cleaned the nozzles and other bits with some brake cleaner and when squirted in gave a good 5 jet spray pattern

they were screwed on quite tight and out them back on tight - is there a torque figure for refitting the injector end cap ?

so still got a smoky misfire, next step to recheck the tappet gaps again and then an engine compression test on all cylinders

strange how only started to get the problem after changing diesel filter

my new toy arrived this week, once i sort the engine issues i can set the idle speed - hope it works £8 delivered!

View attachment 196243
Click to expand...
The banjo bolt at the back of the FIP has a filter in it not sure how it comes out but maybe its partially blocked.
 
cornish rattler said:
The banjo bolt at the back of the FIP has a filter in it not sure how it comes out but maybe its partially blocked.
Click to expand...

interesting which one is that

I pulled the injectors today after about 20 mins running
Surprising no3 injector was clean and wet with diesel where the other 3 was sooty
So problem with dodgy injector or low cylinder pressure will swap and checkmtomorrow
 
I think I’ve just had a holy **** moment this morning, i recleaned injectors 3 and 4 and swapped them into 1 and 2
They work ok, with no 3 not firing , I had injector no 3 pipe off and check for splits and refitted still rough running

my cheapie compression tester seemed to have packed up , borrowed a oil pressure tester and the indictation is no 3 pressure a lot lower than no 2

so The realisation now that the low compression between 3 and 4 due to warping of cylinder head

with head off will warping be measurable/ visible

when I took it on test drive it did have a coolant leak from thermostat housing and was low on coolant after 10 mile

so before I whip the head off, is a leak down test next test to try

any other possibilities, ? engine was A1 after rebuild?

tappet gaps ok
Timing ok
Starts straight away
 
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