Rebuild upgrades and advice

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
88"Landy

88"Landy

Member
Posts
21
Location
Manchester
Hi All,
I have just started stripping a 1969 series 2a to do a full rebuild, new chassis new bulkhead etc. A few questions that I have are:
1) Do I rebuild it using metric where possible?
2) Do I convert the front brakes to discs?
3) and the question that people have many different opinions about do I rebuild with stainless where possible?
4) Would metric and brake upgrades de-value it?
I do like originality but are the upgrades a big improvement?
I am sure there will be many more questions down the line but these are a few for starters.
Help would be appreciated.
 
Most 'upgrades' devalue classic vehicles. Standard swb 10" brakes, if well set up and maintained, are actually quite good. Stainless and aluminium are not the best of friends. There is some chemistry involved re galvanitic corrosion! They can be used if there is a physical barrier between the two metals. Nothing to be gained in using metric fittings, the original imperial sizes are readily available. Out of interest where are you getting your new bulkhead from?
 
I'm on a very similar project to you, with a '73 109, chassis, bulkhead etc. I've got a thread in the members projects section if you want to have a scroll for any ideas.

I've kept most fittings imperial, as Nathan says they're easily available. That being said, I have mixed in some metric where I either already had it on the shelf or it was easier at the time.

A word of caution when getting the new bulkhead, depending where you source it, it will require a fair bit of work in terms of holes, tapping for bolts, brackets etc.

As for upgrades, I plan to keep it as original as possible but not being a stickler. If it makes sense to upgrade or modernise then I have done.

Clear fuel lines, battery isolator, defender seats, halogen headlights, relays on the wiring loom and new fuse box etc.
 
I would stick to imperial for fasteners and not use stainless steel. A dab of grease on all fasteners will make them last 50 years. It's up to you how you modernise it but keep all the original bits, e.g. Brake drums etc as that will lessen any devaluing if/when you decide to sell it.

Col
 
88"Landy said:
Hi All,
I have just started stripping a 1969 series 2a to do a full rebuild, new chassis new bulkhead etc. A few questions that I have are:
1) Do I rebuild it using metric where possible?
2) Do I convert the front brakes to discs?
3) and the question that people have many different opinions about do I rebuild with stainless where possible?
4) Would metric and brake upgrades de-value it?
I do like originality but are the upgrades a big improvement?
I am sure there will be many more questions down the line but these are a few for starters.
Help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
There isn't actually much wrong with a standard Series in good condition.
Radial tyres are an improvement, so is electronic ignition if it is petrol engined.
Other than that, I would keep it standard, modification will always reduce value.
When it is done, don't forget agreed value insurance. 2a are worth good money these days.
 
WoodyO said:
Clear fuel lines, battery isolator, defender seats, halogen headlights, relays on the wiring loom and new fuse box etc.
Click to expand...
Defender seats, I have found that late model series 3 "delux " seats are more comfortable than Defender can can be on sliding rails.
 
Hi Thank you for your reply.
It is in such a bad state I could do anything to it, but I like original so this is the way I want to go.
I bought it more or less blind. So when it arrived I found that it needs more work than I was told.
I have uploaded some pics.
 

Attachments

  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    318.7 KB · Views: 152
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    332.4 KB · Views: 143
  • Nest.jpg
    Nest.jpg
    412.4 KB · Views: 133
  • Winch.jpg
    Winch.jpg
    482.2 KB · Views: 128
To be honest, it doesn't look much worse than mine when I bought it. New wheels, track rod ends, new brake shoes, new ignition switch and a bit of wiring correction and I was driving it around. Everything else is/has been done whilst using it.

All old ladies come with a supply of straw.

Col
 
Hi, I hope that I can get a chassis from Shielder Chassis I have not spoken to them yet.
Link: https://www.shielderchassis.com/all-bulkheads/series-bulkheads/series-2-and-2a/
What I thought was if I buy my Chassis and Bulkhead from the same place hopefully they will fit together better..
I was told when I bought my Landie that the bulkhead was salvageable but the vents have rotted all the way through and the OSF door pillar is not there.
 
hi,
on mine i uprated the brakes using a tls 11" setup with servo,a straightforward installation using contemporary land rover parts,if you really want to fit a disc setup then to be honest you should sell the 2a and buy a later model as the next step will be power steering,aircon,airbag etc
i would suggest that you search for 'Glencoyne land rovers' as they have lots of pertinent info which is extremely useful for us older series owners,
expeditionlandrover is another useful site,
p.s,
have a look at replacement panels/sections for land rovers and find a competent local welder as the rot around the vents is easily fixed and these problamatic and commonly failing areas are well catered for by the many and reasonably priced replacement panel suppliers,
ryn @beautiful and sunny west cornwall
 
Last edited:
rynner said:
hi,
on mine i uprated the brakes using a tls 11" setup with servo,a straightforward installation using contemporary land rover parts,if you really want to fit a disc setup then to be honest you should sell the 2a and buy a later model as the next step will be power steering,aircon,airbag etc
i would suggest that you search for 'Glencoyne land rovers' as they have lots of pertinent info which is extremely useful for' us older series owners,
expeditionlandrover is another useful site,
Click to expand...
Ok Thanks,
No, I think you are right drum brakes are ok, I was just collecting information before I plan the build.
 
rynner said:
hi,
on mine i uprated the brakes using a tls 11" setup with servo,a straightforward installation using contemporary land rover parts,if you really want to fit a disc setup then to be honest you should sell the 2a and buy a later model as the next step will be power steering,aircon,airbag etc
i would suggest that you search for 'Glencoyne land rovers' as they have lots of pertinent info which is extremely useful for us older series owners,
expeditionlandrover is another useful site,
p.s,
have a look at replacement panels/sections for land rovers and find a competent local welder as the rot around the vents is easily fixed and these problamatic and commonly failing areas are well catered for by the many and reasonably priced replacement panel suppliers,
ryn @beautiful and sunny west cornwall
Click to expand...
Ok will do. I can't seem to find the inner panel for the vents because mine internally have completely gone.
 
88"Landy said:
Hi, I hope that I can get a chassis from Shielder Chassis I have not spoken to them yet.
Link: https://www.shielderchassis.com/all-bulkheads/series-bulkheads/series-2-and-2a/
What I thought was if I buy my Chassis and Bulkhead from the same place hopefully they will fit together better..
I was told when I bought my Landie that the bulkhead was salvageable but the vents have rotted all the way through and the OSF door pillar is not there.
Click to expand...
Shielder don't have a great reputation, from what I have seen.

Anything is salvageable, but I am not sure if that bulkhead would justify the time and effort as opposed to getting a new one. All depends of how much you enjoy grinding and fabrication.

Looks like that will keep you busy for a while. Best of luck!
 
Turboman said:
Shielder don't have a great reputation, from what I have seen.

Anything is salvageable, but I am not sure if that bulkhead would justify the time and effort as opposed to getting a new one. All depends of how much you enjoy grinding and fabrication.

Looks like that will keep you busy for a while. Best of luck!
Click to expand...
Thanks, every bolt so far has snapped but it's probably a good thing. I will make a decision on the bulkhead when it's stripped but, it looks really bad there doesn't look like there is much left.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Kiwi Landie
Series 3 Rebuild Series 3 Suffix B gearbox as Suffix D
Replies
12
Views
2K
BikerB
BikerB
WelshJeepster
Station wagon to rag top
Replies
5
Views
559
Dorset_dumpling
Dorset_dumpling
dag019
Brake caliper rebuild
Replies
3
Views
831
Seaswood
Seaswood
E
P38A Turbo rebuild - Recommendations
Replies
6
Views
813
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
awkwardbob
L322 Gearbox / Torque Conv Replace / Rebuild or not
Replies
15
Views
428
marjon
marjon
Back
Top