Freelander 1 Rear wheel cylinder bolts

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Alibro said:
The one I have came from B&Q but is basically the same. It is great for sanding and grinding those awkward places like the bolt in a wheel cylinder. This one is great value too as I'm sure I paid more for mine a year or two ago.
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Im going to get a 400watt one
 
Shabe said:
After doing this to the bolt i plan to just keep using the cylinder and hope for the bestView attachment 322897
View attachment 322898
View attachment 322899
Any advice would be good before i put it back together with new shoes and drums
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Definitely don’t leave it like that and ‘hope for the best’ - this is your brakes!
You’re half way there - you just need to do the second bolt.

Have a go with the file like @Alibro suggested… but please please please finished the job and get the cylinder changed and new bolts in.
 
Freddie17 said:
Definitely don’t leave it like that and ‘hope for the best’ - this is your brakes!
You’re half way there - you just need to do the second bolt.

Have a go with the file like @Alibro suggested… but please please please finished the job and get the cylinder changed and new bolts in.
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I guess ure right
 
Shabe said:
I guess ure right
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Do the other bolt like the first one, once you have the shoes and springs out, a smart tap with a hammer and small screwdriver or similar from behind, on the shank of the bolt (where you took the head off) will likely just push it through and the cylinder will fall out.
 
J_D said:
Its worth changing the little pins that hold the shoes in place as well as they rust and may fail.
this kind of thing ebay link
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I assumed the OP was replacing the shoes and springs (and pins) with a kit, but yes - definitely do this.

If not already, just order a rear brake kit and replace the lot while you have it apart - they are not big bucks.
 
Freddie17 said:
I assumed the OP was replacing the shoes and springs (and pins) with a kit, but yes - definitely do this.

If not already, just order a rear brake kit and replace the lot while you have it apart - they are not big bucks.
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Yes i did order with shoes and drums😊👍
 
Shabe said:
After doing this to the bolt i plan to just keep using the cylinder and hope for the best

Any advice would be good before i put it back together with new shoes and drums
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After chiseling the bolt heads off, make sure you can actually remove the thread from the cylinder. Then check the state of the seals.

Personally I would put new cylinders in. JGS4x4 are doing a pair for £20 inc VAT.
 
pwood999 said:
After chiseling the bolt heads off, make sure you can actually remove the thread from the cylinder. Then check the state of the seals.

Personally I would put new cylinders in. JGS4x4 are doing a pair for £20 inc VAT.
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He is replacing the cylinders - just struggling to get them out (as we all do!)
 
Progress:
IMG_1604.jpeg
IMG_1605.jpeg
IMG_1606.jpeg
IMG_1607.jpeg

so far i managed to get off the two bolts with the tools in the pictures. I used mini beltsander and chisel, before that i tried with chisel meant for wood….. night and day difference with the right tools

However when i tried opening the brake hose and lines to change them, i twisted the hose a little, as you can see in the picture..

Does anyone know how hard it is to change brake line from top of hose to fuel tank from 1/10 how much headache?

Or should i just change the little connecting to wheel cylinder and hose only?

At the moment i just left old cylinder connected so it doesnt drip brake fluid and the wet part looking fluid is wd40 on brake hose

Also thanks everyone for help so far😊👍
 
If you mean the pipe from abs to rear then it's doable but a bit of a pain due to the length. Just follow original and make sure your ends are made off good. Pain getting to the abs pump as someone put a dirty great engine in the way.
 
If like mine the pipes were only corroded to just under the rear passenger door then buy a flaring tool, some brake pipe & joiners/connectors & make your own. It's a bit fiddly getting the old brake pipes out of the plastic clips without breaking them but better than going all the way to the engine bay if you don't need to.
 
Andy Warren said:
If like mine the pipes were only corroded to just under the rear passenger door then buy a flaring tool, some brake pipe & joiners/connectors & make your own. It's a bit fiddly getting the old brake pipes out of the plastic clips without breaking them but better than going all the way to the engine bay if you don't need to.
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This sounds like a good idea, i already bought a cheap double flaring tool with cutter and bender, but i just need the joiner connector so i can cut off the corroded bit and add extra pipe from there. Is that what you meant?
 
Shabe said:
This sounds like a good idea, i already bought a cheap double flaring tool with cutter and bender, but i just need the joiner connector so i can cut off the corroded bit and add extra pipe from there. Is that what you meant?
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Yes, just cut the corroded bit out ( I went from the flexi hose,which was new, & as far back as I needed to) & replace what you need to. Have a practice on a piece of new pipe (on the bench) at getting the flares right before you tackle the actual job & the only other thing is you'll have to scrap back the green looking plastic coating on the original pipes where you intend to join with the new stuff.
 
Andy Warren said:
Yes, just cut the corroded bit out ( I went from the flexi hose,which was new, & as far back as I needed to) & replace what you need to. Have a practice on a piece of new pipe (on the bench) at getting the flares right before you tackle the actual job & the only other thing is you'll have to scrap back the green looking plastic coating on the original pipes where you intend to join with the new stuff.
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Im not sure what you mean by green plastic coating on the pipe, i dont see any, maybe previous owner changed the whole deal and didnt use the original..
 
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