P38A Rear o/s door won't open...

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T

TallPaulB

Active Member
Posts
146
Location
Manchester, UK
As title really. The lock mechanism on that door doesn't move when you lock / unlock the car so I'm guessing it's knackered.

Couple of questions:

Does anyone know if the door not opening is an MOT fail? Mine is due in January, just wondering if I need to prioritise fixing it.

Any tips on getting the door open in the first place to start fixing it?
 
Yes, doors need to function on both interior and exterior handles.

Note: To anyone who can give information on how to open a 'locked' or closed door - remember this is a public forum and it would be wise not to disclose any information on how to 'break in to' a locked car! We would all like our cars to remain where we parked them, so best put it in a PM to the OP....
 
"6.2.3 Doors and door catches
A lack of door handles due to the original design or a specialist modification isn't a defect as long as the door can be latched securely in the closed position.

Driver and passenger doors must open from the outside using the relevant control.

Driver and front passenger doors must also open from the inside using the relevant control.

Load space doors must be able to be secured in the closed position.

You should only reject door hinges, catches and pillars for deterioration if it causes the doors not to work as intended."
https://www.mot-testing.service.gov...-Structure-and-Attachments.html#section_6.2.3
Major & a fail.
 
Great, I guess this and the ABS light are my priorities then.....

I can access the door from the inside of the vehicle (by scooting across) and I can get the window down, so any methods of opening the door that require either / both of those gratefully received.
 
If the door is locked and will not open from inside or out it is superlocked. You will have to remove the door card.
 
TallPaulB said:
Is it possible to get the door card off with the door shut? (I'm not near the car at the moment so can't check myself!)
Click to expand...

Don't have clue never had to do it. All door cards can be removed with doors shut but sometimes tend not to look pretty afterwards.
 
Being an electronics wizard i suppose you could look at RAVE for CDL switch and Superlock power cables to that door, then remove the B post trim and find them and power them and see what you get.
 
I just had a look at mine, I am sure it’s possible to remove as seems no screws around the bottom/sides. But it would certainly be tight to get out with the door shut. Be prepared to make a bit of a mess as has been said.

But would certainly look at that ^^^^ suggestion first.

They are not easy cars to break into, believe it or not.I was locked out of a running car once:mad::(:oops:
With the spare key safe in the glove box:eek:.

Good luck
J
 
You only need to trigger the Central Locking motor to get the latch to unlock. With the front door open, the connectors to the door *may* be accessible - I can't remember.
You can also get to the wires at the BECM end. BUT if it's not locking/unlocking on the command from the BECM, then it could be that the CDL motor has failed and it won't open anyway. Sometimes if it's sticky, or the brushes in the motor are a bit knackered, then giving it a shot of 12V from a battery or something like that can get it to move. But if not... then it's down to the hard way of getting into the door.
 
Ah, thanks everyone, I've managed to get a day (christmas eve) where I can spend some time on the car, so first will be the ABS sensor then I'll try Jump starting my door :)
 
TallPaulB said:
Ah, thanks everyone, I've managed to get a day (christmas eve) where I can spend some time on the car, so first will be the ABS sensor then I'll try Jump starting my door :)
Click to expand...

CDL wire is Pink. Common is Orange. Superlock is Orange/pink. You will have to reverse polarity Pink to Orange or Orange/pink to Orange to turn motor in correct rotation to unlock. One polarity locks other polarity unlocks. Sure you will know what i mean. First thing to do is remove super lock. Then sill button or internal handle should open door.
 
Last edited:
The superlock motor is only used to put the latch into superlock mode - it moves a spring/loaded pawl aside to then let the CDL motor drive the locking mechanism a second time into the superlock position.

Unlocking only requires the CDL motor to be driven (Pink/Orange wires as wammers mentions). One polarity it won't do anything - the other way it will drive the motor to unlock. You may need to pulse it twice as sometimes it will go from superlock -> lock, and need a second pulse to go from lock -> unlock. Sometimes it will go all the way from superlock -> unlock, all depends on how stiff the mechanism is inside.

If putting 12V on the Pink/Orange wires does nothing in either direction, then the CDL motor has burnt out and you then have the fun of trying to get the door open manually
 
martyuk said:
The superlock motor is only used to put the latch into superlock mode - it moves a spring/loaded pawl aside to then let the CDL motor drive the locking mechanism a second time into the superlock position.

Unlocking only requires the CDL motor to be driven (Pink/Orange wires as wammers mentions). One polarity it won't do anything - the other way it will drive the motor to unlock. You may need to pulse it twice as sometimes it will go from superlock -> lock, and need a second pulse to go from lock -> unlock. Sometimes it will go all the way from superlock -> unlock, all depends on how stiff the mechanism is inside.

If putting 12V on the Pink/Orange wires does nothing in either direction, then the CDL motor has burnt out and you then have the fun of trying to get the door open manually
Click to expand...

If super lock is removed he should be able to open the door with the inside button or handle. When the door is just locked outside handle will not work but sill button and internal one should.
 
wammers said:
If super lock is removed he should be able to open the door with the inside button or handle. When the door is just locked outside handle will not work but sill button and internal one should.
Click to expand...

Superlock is done inside the latch, with the normal locking mechanism - as I've already mentioned - the superlock motor is only used in conjunction with the CDL motor to put the latch into superlock mode. To get it out of superlock, you don't need to activate the superlock motor again as the pawl is spring loaded.

To get it back to the normal locked position to then be able to use the sill lock button, then you would still need the CDL motor to work to move the mechanism inside the latch back to the normal locked position.
 
martyuk said:
Superlock is done inside the latch, with the normal locking mechanism - as I've already mentioned - the superlock motor is only used in conjunction with the CDL motor to put the latch into superlock mode. To get it out of superlock, you don't need to activate the superlock motor again as the pawl is spring loaded.

To get it back to the normal locked position to then be able to use the sill lock button, then you would still need the CDL motor to work to move the mechanism inside the latch back to the normal locked position.
Click to expand...

Ok. ;)
 
The wink face implies you think I don't know what I'm on about... which is fine...

I'll defer to you infinite "wisdom" as it seems to be on this forum. Despite the fact that I've refurbished probably going on 50+ door latches, so actually know what I'm on about and how they work/common faults internally in the mechanisms - but by all means... Crack on.

Your attitude towards other people who actually know something about these vehicles is one of the reasons I'm on here less and less.
 
martyuk said:
The wink face implies you think I don't know what I'm on about... which is fine...

I'll defer to you infinite "wisdom" as it seems to be on this forum. Despite the fact that I've refurbished probably going on 50+ door latches, so actually know what I'm on about and how they work/common faults internally in the mechanisms - but by all means... Crack on.

Your attitude towards other people who actually know something about these vehicles is one of the reasons I'm on here less and less.
Click to expand...

There was no such intended intimation it was just OK acknowledging your post nothing more. ;)
 
@martyuk where's the best / easiest place to pick up the pink & orange wires so I can apply 12v to them? Can I just unplug at the becm end and try there or is there somewhere closer to the latch end I can get them without taking loads of trim apart?
 
martyuk said:
The wink face implies you think I don't know what I'm on about... which is fine...

I'll defer to you infinite "wisdom" as it seems to be on this forum. Despite the fact that I've refurbished probably going on 50+ door latches, so actually know what I'm on about and how they work/common faults internally in the mechanisms - but by all means... Crack on.

Your attitude towards other people who actually know something about these vehicles is one of the reasons I'm on here less and less.
Click to expand...

Wow that was quite an outpouring considering i was just accepting your explanation in post #15. Get a grip.
 
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