Rear cross member surface rust

Maxxyjazz · Feb 8, 2013

Hello,
I've recently bought a defender 90. Its 13 years old and done 83k miles.
I was wondering if I could pick your brains, There are few little patches of surface rust on the rear cross member. I've had a good poke around underneath when I was buying it and the rest of the chassis seems sound. It also has a little bit of rust on the insides of the hinges, were the paint has worn away. Does anybody have some advice as the best way to treat this? Any tips would be more than appreciated.

M

crashbox · Feb 8, 2013

For the chassis, red oxide primer then underseal and for the hinges, grease.Better doing the whole chassis. For inside the chassis 50% mix waxoyl/diesel injected into it. Remember waxoyl will burn if you use a welder later on so get the patches sorted first. Good luck.

crashbox · Feb 8, 2013

Oh, welcome by the way. Where are you etc?

ratty · Feb 8, 2013

I tend to chuck some hammerite kurrust on the rust patches to try and keep it at bay. I try and bung a lick of paint on my x member every couple of years too.

crashbox · Feb 8, 2013

They reckon used engine oil is as good as anything else to keep the rust back.

The Mad Hat Man · Feb 8, 2013

crashbox said:
They reckon used engine oil is as good as anything else to keep the rust back.

bugger to paint over tho

crashbox · Feb 8, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
bugger to paint over tho

Indeed but I was thinking of the inner chassis.

Turboman · Feb 8, 2013

Strip as much paint as you can, wash off well, two coats red oxide, two topcoat, spray dinitrol inside would be my choice. I always try and hit any small spots of corrosion hard stop em spreading. Like crashbox said its easier to repair without the paint and waxoyl, not so many fumes when you weld it

Turboman · Feb 8, 2013

Maxxyjazz said:
Hello,
I've recently bought a defender 90. Its 13 years old and done 83k miles.
I was wondering if I could pick your brains, There are few little patches of surface rust on the rear cross member. I've had a good poke around underneath when I was buying it and the rest of the chassis seems sound. It also has a little bit of rust on the insides of the hinges, were the paint has worn away. Does anybody have some advice as the best way to treat this? Any tips would be more than appreciated.

M

Just seen your username, wasnt you in Faithless

One of my faves

Maxxyjazz · Feb 8, 2013

Cheers chaps, didn't expect responses that quickly. I'll have a go at it at this weekend (weather allowing).
Sorry Turbo I wasn't in faithless. Wish I was. Just nicked the name. Although I think he spelt it with an i not y.

KSLB · Feb 8, 2013

I have recently done the rear cross member on mine, stripped it back used a rust treatment under coated and then used a rubberised enamel paint for the top coat and it looks fantastic. First time I have done it so will see how it lasts.

The Ferkin BoB · Feb 9, 2013

i spray inside and out of my chassis every yera with red doosel and sump oil mixed with a bit of black waxoil for colour.no worries yet...altho the first time i did it i didnt wear a mask and was very sick...

BotswanaGuy · Feb 9, 2013

How can you get to the inside of the chassis to clean it?

The Ferkin BoB · Feb 9, 2013

BotswanaGuy said:
How can you get to the inside of the chassis to clean it?

steam clean with a hose pipe fed in the holes at various points..

BotswanaGuy · Feb 9, 2013

Maxxyjazz · Feb 16, 2013

Cheers for the tips. Not going to get chance this weekend as I've been called into work. Going to try the red oxide or Kurust first then paint. Which ever the shop has in. Is there a particular paint anyone would recommend?

The Ferkin BoB · Feb 16, 2013

Maxxyjazz said:
Cheers for the tips. Not going to get chance this weekend as I've been called into work. Going to try the red oxide or Kurust first then paint. Which ever the shop has in. Is there a particular paint anyone would recommend?

rud it down with a wire brush and flap disc so its shiney first.then paint krust etc....

tidymeup · Feb 16, 2013

It might be going a little far but we usually get the vehicle in the air and give it a rub with the sand blaster. Then red oxide and top coat.

That will last longer then any other option.

Turboman · Feb 17, 2013

Maxxyjazz said:
Cheers for the tips. Not going to get chance this weekend as I've been called into work. Going to try the red oxide or Kurust first then paint. Which ever the shop has in. Is there a particular paint anyone would recommend?

If you really want to get obssesive about it you culd try corroless which is a rust preventing paint used on oil rigs and bridges. Ther is some spin off use among people who restore classic vehicles. It aint easy to get you will have to google and contact suppliers that come up, it is good stuff and will last for years if properly applied.

ebbadger · Feb 18, 2013

Red Oxide nowadays is no more use than ordinary undercoat, the lead that used to make it an excellent inhibitor has long since been banned
Something is almost always better than nothing but theres far better than red oxide out there....
I use TEMAPRIME if you can get it, a very zinc rich primer used in harsh environments in the steel industry
Also re the used engine oil....... Take care as it is carcinogenic and shouldn't be used but its your choice...
Cheers Steve

Rear cross member surface rust

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