Freelander 1 Really low clutch bite

My clutch has a low bite also. But I have many problems. First off the P.O. had not installed the master cylinder correctly, and it was a bit floppy in the firewall, as the grommet had been placed on the wrong side. I fixed that, and I got an extra 1cm of pedal travel, so it is like 2cm off the floor now. The second thing I notices is that the metal pipe from the quick connect to the clutch slave had been fixed with some quick air-line push-fit connectors. Not surprisingly it is a bit weepy. Bled the master, topped up etc and now I am about 3cm off the floor. Now I remember when installing master cyliders yonks ago you would get two little bleed pipes, and you looped tham back into the reservoir and pumped the thing a 100 times to get all the air bubbles out, and if you didn;t do that you got a spongy pedal, even with a decent pressure bleeder (I had a gunston one). So I think Maybe the next step is loop back the clutch output into the master cylinder off the car, and pump a load. I suppose that if you disconnect the master at the quick connect , then the pedal should be rock hard and not move unless there is air in the system or the M/C seals have been compromised ? I've not tried this, but is an educated guess, maybe someone else has tried it?

Finally , another new Master cylinder , non genuine though , but perfect clutch.
I kept the L/R one , its just not worth arguing about to get anykind of money back, I got a blank look and they side you can try Huh !

I suppose that if you disconnect the master at the quick connect , then the pedal should be rock hard and not move unless there is air in the system or the M/C seals have been compromised ? I've not tried this, but is an educated guess, maybe someone else has tried it?

Click to expand...

going by a previous post .. methinks that's a ' yes ' .
was suggested in said post .. that it be the way to figure out
if it's the m/c or s/c that's at fault ..

Here’s how i fixed my clutch, fairly quickly