Re sealing windscreen

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Posts
92
Hey up.
98 300tdi.

Getting very wet. If you pull the driver side A pillar plastic off you can see water dripping.

I believe it's coming from the windscreen seal.


Is it possible to pull the outer windscreen trims off to get to it to re seal it?
 
You can try silicone on outside but if its bad just use you insurance to get new screen and pay xs. Youll never seal it if the rubber is proper gone.
 
Pulled top and right (leaking side) trims off, big gap in the sealant on the right. No surprises that was leaking.

Filled the gap with PU adhesive/sealant.

Pulling the top trim off pulled a massive bead of sikaflex or something out with it, I think someone has just gone mental filling the gap, not sure it was stuck to anything except the trim.

So maybe I've stopped the leak, or made it worse.

Ah well. Find out when it rains.


Should I start looking at getting it properly removed and resealed? Bit worrying that a gap had opened, no idea why it started leaking.
 
Pulled top and right (leaking side) trims off, big gap in the sealant on the right. No surprises that was leaking.

Filled the gap with PU adhesive/sealant.

Pulling the top trim off pulled a massive bead of sikaflex or something out with it, I think someone has just gone mental filling the gap, not sure it was stuck to anything except the trim.

So maybe I've stopped the leak, or made it worse.

Ah well. Find out when it rains.


Should I start looking at getting it properly removed and resealed? Bit worrying that a gap had opened, no idea why it started leaking.

Best solution.. (I can tell you how to do this if needed as i have done this twice in the last 6 months)..Remove the screen and reseal it yourself.. At a guess i would say there is surface rust and you will need to remove/ treat it with a rust converter which can take up to 24 hours ..
The rust will be the result of having the screen replaced in the past by a poop fitter and or windscreen company..

PS: As a side note as someone suggested it in this thread..Do not use silicone on a car body ever !! Rust is the result.. It reacts with the metal..as well as traps and holds any water/condensation..
 
Last edited:
Not an easy DIY task to remove and refit a bonded screen, which the OPs 300 series has.


It will take some care an hour or so to remove the screen..I can explain how to do this but i will need to take a few pics if you guys do wish to know..it is not to hard..
Other option is take it to dodgy brothers windscreen replacement co..(who would have made the vehicle start to rust out.. then in time leak)..
In doing that.. They will not do anything to address the rust other than a few second wire brush and if you are lucky cover it with a urethane bonding promoter.. write on your invoice that the car has rust under the seal and there is no warranty on the work (six months later you are back to square one) ..You are going to have them tell you, they need to replace the screen as they can not get it out with out breaking it.. They will also tell you.. you will need to buy a new set of very expensive molds as well.. Both of the above are bs (<--- Answers are due to the time factor, as windscreen companies have set times for their fitters to be able to do a job)

Side note.. Keep in mind if a screen has been replaced using insurance in the past and they insist you use their prefered repairer.. the insurance company does employ the ((cheapest)) they can find... Cheap means cutting corners.. Same goes for smash repairs
 
Just thinking aloud

I always have windscreens replaced where I can watch the fitter and I used to train windscreen fitters.
If I had a garage, or a friend with one, and my windscreen got cracked I might consider having the old screen removed professionally and then take the car away to repair the aperture and then return it a day or so later to have the new screen fitted.

just thinking aloud.
 
Back
Top