Raptorising my 6x4 Landy

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vasimone

Active Member
Posts
197
Location
Accra, Ghana, West Africa
Hey guys,

Next month I will be stripping down my 6x4 1995 land rover defender and repaint it the bodywork outside, the underseal and the interior of the bodywork in UPOL Raptor.

Since I am using the car in the ‘bush’ here in Ghana and I will be overlanding in the near future, this bedliner paint will give me good strength over tree branches and stonechips whilst also providing some insulation and noise reduction. I am aware of the downsides of using it but still want to go ahead with it.
I am about to start with the strip-down and as always I’d like to refer to you guys as your tips and suggestions increase the likelihood of doing a good job J I will video the whole job and will be posting it here for other people to refer to in the future

1. The main aim of the paint job I have in mind is to extend the lifetime of the Landy – hence I would like to understand from your perspective which parts I should ensure to do even if in difficult to access points e.g. the engine bay (wings, front of bulkhead) and inside of the bonnet– is it worth painting it as well ?

2. The Raptor bedliner paint is a very sticky paint so pieces painted together will be very hard to detach in the future. Hence I would like to strip off the body the parts that make most sense to remove. Outside I think these are the wings, the hinges and door handles, the roof, the bulkhead and windscreen part (these two parts are split by a sponge seal), the wheel arches, the triangle on the lower-back side of the rear door. Any other part that you would suggest me to strip out or parts that you’d suggest not to mess around with?

3. I would like to also paint the chassis – I was thinking of unbolting it from the bodywork and lifting the bodywork with a workshop elevator. I wouldn’t remove thought the engine from the chassis as that seems super complicated. Rather than spraying it I was thinking of having the workshop use a brush and stripe-coat – thoughts? Or is it quite difficult and I am better off to just spray the chassis and underseal together with everything still attached at the bodywork?

4. Since this was a fire service truck, there are some wires that go to the roof – what’s the best way to seal the holes on the roof now that I don’t need all that wiring?

5. Since I am going to do some holes in the body work for LED stands and other things, best to do these before or after the paint job?

6. Is it best to paint over the existing rivets or to remove the old rivers, paint and apply new ones?

7. Best to mask where there are bolts or to remove them before paiting?

8. To paint the rims, do you suggest to remove the tire first or just to mask it off?

Thanks a lot everyone for your input!

Cheers from Ghana,

Simone
 
This was good to read. I am going to be painting my 90 with raptor paint in 3 weeks and you have said a few things that I hadn’t thought of. Look forward to seeing the finished job.
 
I had some extra holes in mine for aerials and I sealed them with rubber grommets and a bit of panel sealant that I bought off amazon as they weren’t that big and I’ve pre drilled new holes for led lights and a new wing mounted aerial before painting. When I paint mine if the rivets don’t show any sign of rust/corrosion I will be leavin them and painting over them. I have painted a few sets of wheels from different cars I’ve had and I’ve always took the tyre off the rim so that I was able to paint over the lip of the rim.

How many litres of raptor paint did you buy for the job.
 
great, thanks guys!

I bought 20L of Raptor since 1L should do about 3 square meters.

2 Questions:

1- As I started working through it I identified 2 bits that have rusted on the bulk-head. One is right at the edge of bulk-head and windscreen - how do you suggest to fix it? Second is in the foot-well, seems superficial mainly on the paint - any thoughts how this could happen?
2- I live by the sea - what would be the idea way of clean the car before painting it to ensure all the salt is removed and we don't overcoat it?

cheers,

Simone
 

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is it better to paint whilst disassembled (front wings, windscreen frame, etc...) or best to reassemble the whole lot prior to painting ?

Definitely better to paint it disassembled. When I did mine I took as mush off as possible which was easy to remove. Means you can get a mush more complete paint job on the parts you have removed.

Since it's now back to bare steel and alu - do you recommend me to use Acid #8 Etch primer or UPOL anticorrosive epoxy primer ?

I have not used the upol primer so cannot comment on which would be better. I just sed a standard acid etch primer for mine.
 
Hey guys,

paint stripped and next week I am going to paint it up.

Since it's now back to bare steel and alu - do you recommend me to use Acid #8 Etch primer or UPOL anticorrosive epoxy primer ?

is it better to paint whilst disassembled (front wings, windscreen frame, etc...) or best to reassemble the whole lot prior to painting ?
That's going to look absolutely awesome.
 
Definitely better to paint it disassembled. When I did mine I took as mush off as possible which was easy to remove. Means you can get a mush more complete paint job on the parts you have removed.

Great @dag019 I also thought so - the workshop says that there will be challenges in reassembling it as the raptor lines is quite thick - wouldn't be as simple as masking the parts that need to be assembled together to avoid the raptor liner from painting these parts? shall we anyway paint them with anticorrosive epoxy primer to give them a layer of protection?
 
I sprayed my 90 with Raptor last year,used origional black on the roof & chequer plate plus the wheelarch extensions.
I painted the roll cage in Black Raptor using a close cell foam roller.
The rest of the bodywork,I did withe the tintable raptor & L/R Alpine White.
After a year of use I have found the Raptor coating very good,it resists scratches from trees and vegitation whilst green laning very well.Though does chip off the rubber wheelarch extensions.
I would not use it for the chassis,as I have said it chips off if hit,for instance by stones.
You need to prime any unpainted metal that can be seen after sanding.
Marc.

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guys, job done! :) painted inside out and is looking brilliant! will post some pics as soon as I have some time.


Now as I approach putting it all back together I have a question for you: to put back the shutters at the back i will need to drill some holes to put some bolts into the freshly painted roof/body leaving the steel/alu in the hole exposed - what shall I put inside the hole for it to avoid rusting? shall I apply some primer and paint ? but then when I'd put the bolt it would come off or? or shall i just put some waxoyl?


your guidance would be appreciated


thanks a lot!
 
Now then Simone,

Who are you using in Accra to do your work ? We might shortly be spending more time there (East Legon) and it would be great to have a contact there.

Many thanks,

Damien
 
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