Datatek
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Have you got diagnostics?
P38A Quit moving! Eas..a problem found (update)
- Thread starter Mark Piercy
- Start date
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If it was the inlet valve it would leak all the time not just when the compressor was running.
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I do indeed I have the nanananocom!
Looking at it, yes.. What I want is a way to check for airflow at the valve but that's not going to happen. I let the compressor fill the tank with the doors shut and it started its lift/drop sequence. I then let it fill with the door open. I left the engine running and at motorway height... No pump running and no height change.
So, if the valves are recent the nrv valve seats must be worn or.. The orings are the wrong size??
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So it's pushing past the exhaust solenoid then as well?
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Or can I remove the exhaust valve when the pump is running as it fills the tank...
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NRV 1 retains air in the tank. NRV 2 prevents air from the bags flowing into an empty tank. NRV 3 prevents high pressure air entering the corner solenoid gallery whilst the compressor is running.
Datatek
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If it's pushing air out of the exhaust, have you checked the diaphragm? I would look at live data from the sensors for starters, especially as you go near mud and water. I'd bet it's not the valve block.
Have you ever checked the white connectors at the foot of the A post on the passenger side at any point?
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Understood, so this adds another thing.
When the doors are open the system is disabled, the pump will charge the tank. Why doesn't it lift then?
In theory as we think the nrv3 is leaking.. Why doesn't the front lift with doors open.
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I set the heights this bugger plenty of times and set within limits and out side limits and it does the same thing... Could it be static or an interference somewhere.
I have two driver packs and it doesn't change the outcome.
Datatek
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Because
Because the problem probably is not the valve block
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Sorry, I should have added.
I gave checked them and deleted the block, but not soldered just wire butt connectors.
Datatek
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All sorts of electronic problems can play havoc, from water in the sensors to corroded connectors. As you off road the thing I would start with the sensors, sensor connectors and the A post connectors.What are you thinking
The block and valves do look physically clean and correct.
If you want you can phone me to talk it through as I'm not sure from your description
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That is a good point.
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OK, all taken into consideration. I'm going to revisit the a post wiring and solder the lot together.... But not together 
Thank you for your input, especially both Keith and Tony.
Watch this space.
Thank you for your input, especially both Keith and Tony.
Watch this space.
Last edited:
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Right then, all the wires in the passenger foot well that were in the white block have all been soldered.
No difference....
I swapped the ecu for another.
No différence....
The next step is the four height sensors and their corresponding plugs for corrosion.
There is effing and jeffing on the horizon....
No difference....
I swapped the ecu for another.
No différence....
The next step is the four height sensors and their corresponding plugs for corrosion.
There is effing and jeffing on the horizon....
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Effing and jeffing ffs....
All 4 clean and bone dry....
Something new, when the engine and the compressor are running... A valve clicks and lifts the front... But ONLY when the compressor is running.
Is it some kind of interference from the pumps earth somewhere?
All 4 clean and bone dry....
Something new, when the engine and the compressor are running... A valve clicks and lifts the front... But ONLY when the compressor is running.
Is it some kind of interference from the pumps earth somewhere?
Tenebreaux
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Valve block driver?
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Doors open or closed?
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