Quick question about engine flush

J_Swan said:

My 90 has too much oil in, and has been run on the wrong type. I bought a new oil filter, 7 litres of the correct oil and a tin of Diesel engine flush.

The oil is a fair way above the dipstick when checking it. Theres around a litre and a half too much in. Should I drain some before adding the engine flush before the full drain? Thanks.
Swan.

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What sort of wrong oil? If it was engine oil of any sort I would not be getting too upset - drain it, put in new oil and away you go.

Oil can start some brilliant debates, all I ever recommend is an oil grade in the right region and the correct type of oil if there is a special reason such as the 'PD' cam struck injectors on VAG 1.9TDI engines in VW/Seat/Audi etc.

Flushing... I have done it, but only when a reason really justifies it. If I wanted to clean out an engine I used to buy super cheap oil, do an oil change with a ****ty Britpart filter run it for 15 mins, even take for a light drive, bring it back, dump it, and refill with good oil and a new quality filter - that used to work well and meant that the quantity of old oil in the galleries etc was flushed out with the cheaper oil and diluted down.

Unless you have bad contamination from water or sludge or something then flushing is not really needed.

The MOD used to fill the 300tdi's to the brim with Kero out in Iraq, drain them out and put the lot back into the fuel tank - to be fair, they did survive. Lots of bad press follows after engines flushes. I just change my oil every 5000 miles and it keeps things clean.

If you must use an engine flush, don't buy a flush, use 1/5 a litre of diesel or kerosene.

lynall said:

the 200 is a real tosser to check as it has to be left standing for hours to be accurate.

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This is something ive wondered about before -

For any given fill amount, there are three readings -

The "just stopped" reading, which is the lowest (as the oil is all over the engine)
The "been stopped for a few houes" reading, which is middle
and
The "been left overnight" reading, which is the highest - but quite a bit higher than the "been stopped for a few hours" one.


So, which is the correct level?

Engine cold.
I've been using britpart filters for 14 yrs and now I'm told there cr@p??

Flossie said:

Engine cold.
I've been using britpart filters for 14 yrs and now I'm told there cr@p??

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Well, sadly yes.

I would not worry about it too much, but as far as filters go they are not great. They do not incorporate a non-return valve, this means that there is a longer lag until operating pressure is reached - if you don't do a lot of startups and tend to start and drive on longer journeys this reduced start up lubrication will have less of an impact. Also on comparison on a pressure tester the Britpart filter has much lower pressure reading, this translates to less filtration basically - this also isn't as much of a problem if your oil is kept clean and there is not likely to be contaminants in your system, 100% of engine oil doesn't go via the filter anyway, a lot goes on bypass - or on some engines full flow goes direct to the system and only bypassed oil gets filtered, on the whole all the oil will pass through the filter eventually but it is just there to give it a bit of a clean up, it is really just conditional filtration.

discomania said:

Well, sadly yes.

I would not worry about it too much, but as far as filters go they are not great. They do not incorporate a non-return valve, this means that there is a longer lag until operating pressure is reached - if you don't do a lot of startups and tend to start and drive on longer journeys this reduced start up lubrication will have less of an impact. Also on comparison on a pressure tester the Britpart filter has much lower pressure reading, this translates to less filtration basically - this also isn't as much of a problem if your oil is kept clean and there is not likely to be contaminants in your system, 100% of engine oil doesn't go via the filter anyway, a lot goes on bypass - or on some engines full flow goes direct to the system and only bypassed oil gets filtered, on the whole all the oil will pass through the filter eventually but it is just there to give it a bit of a clean up, it is really just conditional filtration.

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Have you cut open a genuine l/r oil filter to see if it s got a non return fitted, if so got any pics, genuinely interested.
I ask as I change quite a few filters at work and cant say I have ever noticed any valves/springs etc, to be fair I dont look to closely, dont want that gunk down my arm if I can help it.

Not forgetting the 200/300/v8 oil filter hangs down so naturally remains full of oil when engine switched off, of course if its some car side mounted jobby that may be different, or upside marine installation.

Edit pretty certain 200/300 is full flow filter, in fact I cant see why any modern engine would be otherwise?

julianf said:

This is something ive wondered about before -

For any given fill amount, there are three readings -

The "just stopped" reading, which is the lowest (as the oil is all over the engine)
The "been stopped for a few houes" reading, which is middle
and
The "been left overnight" reading, which is the highest - but quite a bit higher than the "been stopped for a few hours" one.


So, which is the correct level?

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Left overnight is best and real true reading, I often check mine at work half way through my shift.

Genuine defender 200 dipstick has 3 level marks, L/N/H just to confuse things.