Classic Pump replacement

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norseman

norseman

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,253
Location
Essex - UK
I may have to replace the fuel pump on my '87 V8.

The thought of removing towing gear & dropping the tank on a 36 year old RR is scary, so I wondered if removing the floor would be a better idea.
I'm led to believe the corrugated panel is alloy, but can anyone advise me as to the best procedure for it's removal & refitting?

Thanks in advance guys.
 
The dropping etc isn't that bad. Worse case you cut bolts and put nice new SS ones in with some copaslip. Then the next time you do it (and there will be a next time...) it's fairly painless.

When i did mine i had to drain and drop the tank twice as the new pump was wired backwards to the original so no fuel getting out! Get some big jerry cans unless you have an empty tank.

Some later models have a hole in the floor for the fuel pump which would make this whole caboodle much easier - check if you do!

Mine is an '88 and not hole so it was a drop of the tank etc (i replaced the tank while i was at it). Not hard and can be done with one person, but two is better.

Haynes method was fine. Just take your time and consider a bit more painted protection for the tank while you're at it. Do test your fuel pump first and make sure the wiring it he right way round.
 
No hole in the floor & the 'dropping' method is no job for a pensioner working out in the open, even with help o_O
There won't be 'a next time' as the car is likely to be moved on next Spring/Summer as there are plans afoot for the money it should raise. I've had the old girl (62K & only 2 previous owners) for 15 years & the past few months have been the first that I've had to spend any real money on repairs .. so it's been a good 'un & I shouldn't complain.
The work would be carried out by my local garage, just a question of managing labour costs .. floor removal vs tank dropping.

I appreciate your advice though.
 
No need to remove any of the towbar if dropping it, although working outside floor out would be easier
 
Kev12 said:
No need to remove any of the towbar if dropping it, although working outside floor out would be easier
Click to expand...
Don't the two 45 degree stabilisers ned to be unbolted at one end? I remember something of that ilk. Towbar itself didn't need to be touched.
 
Kev12 said:
No, not on mine anyway (89 diesel)
Click to expand...

Not the best picture, but i've got two bars (one each side) running to the chassis rail to brace the tow plate. Maybe an aftermarket one before i got it?
IMG_20231120_165116_057.jpg
 
The boot floor is steel and spot welded in place, so it'll be a right faf to remove, but it is a RRC the old tin worms might of had a nibble under the carpet so it might just peel right out without much effort ;)

Easiest way is to drop it out the bottom, and for that you need to remove the 2 towbar braces the bolts in to the chassis are notoriously a pain in the arse to remove usually they need drilling out.. :)

Best to run the car down to near empty if you can to lessen the weight when you remove the tank straps.
 
Are you sure the pump is in the tank??
Some are barrel pumps on the chassis

If you do need to drill out the floor find someone who is doing a build thread & get them to measure for you.done this to disco before
 
I much appreciate all your replies guys, gives me a good idea of what to expect.

I'm not totally sure that the pump is at fault, but likely .. tried 2 used FP relays today but still just cranking over. Tomorrow I will get someone to lift the AFM flap whilst I am at the back of the car & listen for the pump running (or not)
I have a NOS pump that has never been out of it's box, had it for a few years & kept it indoors so hopefully will still be operational.
I'll give the garage the 2 procedural options & let them choose.

Thanks for the 'alloy & rivetted' confirmation Kev ;)
I'll report back on the conclusion guys, thanks again to all.
 
Ok here's an update ;)

With a helper opening the AFM flap with the ignition on I was surprised to clearly hear the pump running, so my attention has to be elsewhere.

Thinking back to Saturday morning, the engine was running smoothly at fast idle & whilst in the driving seat I needed to lean across the car & draw a scraper across the inside of the 'screen to clear condensation (the car was facing away from the sun). I was conscious of my right knee being in contact with the ignition key & that was when the engine just stopped. At first I thought my knee might have somehow partially turned the key off, but ever since the car doesn't even attempt to fire when cranked.

Now I'm not a great believer in coincidence when it comes to things man-made, so can there be a link here ?
I cannot imagine that just pressure from my knee could have damaged the ign. switch & all the dash lights come on as normal, so can I use my multi-meter under the bonnet to check that the ignition circuit is actually live ?

Thank again guys.
 
norseman said:
Ok here's an update ;)

With a helper opening the AFM flap with the ignition on I was surprised to clearly hear the pump running, so my attention has to be elsewhere.

Thinking back to Saturday morning, the engine was running smoothly at fast idle & whilst in the driving seat I needed to lean across the car & draw a scraper across the inside of the 'screen to clear condensation (the car was facing away from the sun). I was conscious of my right knee being in contact with the ignition key & that was when the engine just stopped. At first I thought my knee might have somehow partially turned the key off, but ever since the car doesn't even attempt to fire when cranked.

Now I'm not a great believer in coincidence when it comes to things man-made, so can there be a link here ?
I cannot imagine that just pressure from my knee could have damaged the ign. switch & all the dash lights come on as normal, so can I use my multi-meter under the bonnet to check that the ignition circuit is actually live ?

Thank again guys.
Click to expand...
Lights come on in position 2, starting is in position 3. I've had an ignition switch come apart in such a way that the starter circuit failed, not on a Classic I hasten to add.
 
Hicap phill said:
Can you drop the cowling off near the ignition & look for loose cables?
Click to expand...
My thoughts also, thank you for the suggestion.
Datatek said:
Lights come on in position 2, starting is in position 3. I've had an ignition switch come apart in such a way that the starter circuit failed, not on a Classic I hasten to add.
Click to expand...
I'll check how the lights respond tomorrow .. no problem with the starter circuit though, engine spins over as normal.
 
norseman said:
My thoughts also, thank you for the suggestion.

I'll check how the lights respond tomorrow .. no problem with the starter circuit though, engine spins over as normal.
Click to expand...
many many years ago had a MK 1 escort with similar problems. Key to pos2 all lights came on and would bump start. turn to pos3 engine spun but wouldn't start. turned out a damaged wire when key was turned would split and not allow engine to fire. in pos2 it made contact and hence could bump start
 
Pump might be running but not producing enough flow. Best to check the flow either with pressure gauge (if there's a test valve) or by disconnecting the fuel feed at the engine, and allowing the pump to fill a container. Run the pump for a min, & see how much fuel you get.
 
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