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You need a nice padded fireproof set of overalls.
Oh Yes.... You have a pair
I was wearing them
cozy they are but I had a garbage day at work and the couch was more inviting 
Project Rusty.
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I was wearing them
cozy they are but I had a garbage day at work and the couch was more inviting 
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The couch is always more inviting.
One of my many problems.
One of my many problems
.I understand fully. Finally, after 6 months of good weather not doing anything, I'm once more trying to get the fuel tank out of my Landrover. Do you, or anyone else reading this, have any advice for undoing the thoroughly rusted bolts which hold the bottom plate that supports it?The couch is always more inviting.
One of my many problems
brush back as much as you can, and keep soaking for a few days. You only have cradle holding it in place - shouldn’t be too bad.
@dieseldog69 has your wire feed ever gone all staggered when you switched a reel? I had two welds left, it just started spitting, switched over my wire and glued the ****ing tip as it’s pulsing. Seems it doesn’t have the power to pull a heavy reel around...
Hicap phill
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Is the wire unwinding correctly?
Not binding?
have you put the reel on the direction?
Just checking for things I have done
keep up the good work over winter
Not binding?
have you put the reel on the direction?
Just checking for things I have done
keep up the good work over winter
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Are you sure you have tensioned the spool correctly? I find if its too slack that the wire unwinds and then snags as the feed picks it back up..
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Wallop the bolt heads off them or centre punch an drill the heads off them, no point trying to save them, mutilate them off an move on.
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What he said ^^^^^. They are captive nuts, so I think once you have the bolt heads and support plate off, the rest is (relatively) easy.
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Little bit more done today, got so much on at the minute that I am struggling to find time even on what should be my day off lol
Got the rear body cross member all buttoned up today and it's solid as a rock, just the last line of rivets to go in the floor and that is 100% done and just needs painted and seam sealed.
And the angle section fitted for the rear door seal.
Just need to get me another pot of silver Hammerite rub back and prime all the rest of the body and then I can get it all painted up along with the floor and side panel.
Still need to do the seam sealing and painting underneath and get the brake pipes made up and affixed properly, then the fuel filler and breather pipes need new jubilee clips.
Getting there at last.
I picked up some white card to mock up the on board air brackets so that should go fast too, just need to get on with it when the baby goes to bed lol
Got the rear body cross member all buttoned up today and it's solid as a rock, just the last line of rivets to go in the floor and that is 100% done and just needs painted and seam sealed.
And the angle section fitted for the rear door seal.
Just need to get me another pot of silver Hammerite rub back and prime all the rest of the body and then I can get it all painted up along with the floor and side panel.
Still need to do the seam sealing and painting underneath and get the brake pipes made up and affixed properly, then the fuel filler and breather pipes need new jubilee clips.
Getting there at last.
I picked up some white card to mock up the on board air brackets so that should go fast too, just need to get on with it when the baby goes to bed lol
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Oh yeah the feed roller tensioner always has to be moved around to get the wire back between the rollers and fed up the torch.
Was looking back at some old pics and think I need to change a couple of bits around, we'll see, but should be ok lol
DD and MHM, thanks, guys. Brute force and ignorance rules the day.
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So many things to do and never enough time and with the nights drawing in closer each week it seems like I am getting ever further behind.
But I did plug away a little today and welded in a last patch that I had forgotten about on the back corner of the side panel.
First I decided that I ought to get the back door opening and closing properly without catching.
There is a centralising wedge and corresponding clasp on the door and frame that needed a few shims removed to get it closing properly and to get the lock pin shim removed so that it didn't catch on the door lock any longer.
I also found a couple of pinholes in the end of the rear body cross member so a quick plate welded in there.
After getting the plate all welded in it was a case of getting the last few rivets in along the edge of the floor and then a quick wipe over with the meths and a blast over with the paint stripping heat gun to dry it off and then blather it all with primer.
I have finally dug out the brake pipe fittings, I knew I had them somewhere and couldn't find them anywhere, seems that the box under the kitchen side is quite the treasure trove and there are a few more bits to add to the pile of spare parts that I knew I had bought but obviously put somewhere safe lol
What have I got left to do on the list?
Seam sealing:-
Boot floor inside
Boot floor underneath
boot floor side panel underneath
Painting:-
Boot floor inside
rivets from beneath
Rear body cross member where it has been rebuilt
boot floor side panel on the passenger side
Under body waxing of just about everything once I have been under there with a stiff nylon brush and got the rubbish off.
Brakes.
@The Mad Hat Man @resto_d1 can you advise? Basically I have all the rear axle from the flexy down to remake as they twisted off and self destructed, basically T piece to calipers, but not sure about the brake rotors though??? They got surface rust fo sho but do I replace them?
Was going to do my usual redneck refurb and just put her on axle stands and resurface them with a flap disc......
But I did plug away a little today and welded in a last patch that I had forgotten about on the back corner of the side panel.
First I decided that I ought to get the back door opening and closing properly without catching.
There is a centralising wedge and corresponding clasp on the door and frame that needed a few shims removed to get it closing properly and to get the lock pin shim removed so that it didn't catch on the door lock any longer.
I also found a couple of pinholes in the end of the rear body cross member so a quick plate welded in there.
After getting the plate all welded in it was a case of getting the last few rivets in along the edge of the floor and then a quick wipe over with the meths and a blast over with the paint stripping heat gun to dry it off and then blather it all with primer.
I have finally dug out the brake pipe fittings, I knew I had them somewhere and couldn't find them anywhere, seems that the box under the kitchen side is quite the treasure trove and there are a few more bits to add to the pile of spare parts that I knew I had bought but obviously put somewhere safe lol
What have I got left to do on the list?
Seam sealing:-
Boot floor inside
Boot floor underneath
boot floor side panel underneath
Painting:-
Boot floor inside
rivets from beneath
Rear body cross member where it has been rebuilt
boot floor side panel on the passenger side
Under body waxing of just about everything once I have been under there with a stiff nylon brush and got the rubbish off.
Brakes.
@The Mad Hat Man @resto_d1 can you advise? Basically I have all the rear axle from the flexy down to remake as they twisted off and self destructed, basically T piece to calipers, but not sure about the brake rotors though??? They got surface rust fo sho but do I replace them?
Was going to do my usual redneck refurb and just put her on axle stands and resurface them with a flap disc......
Thanks Resto.
Diesel Dog, you mention that you're realigning your rear door. Mine is sagging so it won't shut. What's the remedy?
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Check the brake pads don’t go through the caliper. It is a common fault and the pads then rub through the hub.
I would be inclined to refurb them with stainless pots and new seals.
Also check disk thickness against the spec.
I would be inclined to refurb them with stainless pots and new seals.
Also check disk thickness against the spec.
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New hinges unless you have undone the bolts and the door dropped. What usually happens is that the hinges wear out and the door drops, complete failure of the hinge is not a fun thing to deal with when you least expect it, as in, trolley full of groceries in the pizzing rain as mine did a rew years back.
If you do it ghetto and just adjust the hinges for now it will be fine short term, get a length of 2"X2" timber and cut it so that it is a snug fit under the door half open and get your crowbar ready, unsnug the 6 hinge bolts and start to pry the door up and keep an eye on the hinges, try an get them to move vertically by about 10mm, they have loads of adjustment to account for Land Rover build tolerances but might not move as much as you need, a little will be enough to see you through for now until the new hinges come, do them one at a time and try and hold the alignment, proper pain to set up but once done they are good for a long time.
That's just like hanging a house door, then. Good to know.
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That sounds like getting a new set of calipers and swapping them out for now and rebuilding my originals with new pistons at a later date lol
I might just do the fronts as well as they have a tendency to stick, I do got a new set of front pads, springs and clips to go in.
Sounds like the discs will get the redneck refurb with the flappy disc and done.
^^^^
spend a bit more and get stainless as stated. Your apparently not meant to spilt them but I did. Go gentle - instead of a boot and circlip they’re a stupid fragile ring seal thing at the top. Easily kinked if heavy handed. I cleaned lot out and redid with new seals, pistons and assembled with red rubber grease. Careful you get the right ones. Fronts are longer than the back but think you told me that when I realized fitment was wrong anyway!
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