Project Rusty.

The Mad Hat Man said:

buy the comp and shot pot and then sell it for the pram.... its an investment!

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jamesmartin said:

looks similar to this ive used it a fair bit
http://performance-chemicals.net/vactan/

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The Mad Hat Man said:

not sure i like the idea of a water solvent based system which leaves a latex emulsion coating ??

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The Mad Hat Man said:

Think I might try the bondage stuff next.

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The Mad Hat Man said:

Think I might try the bonda stuff next.

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dieseldog69 said:

So this is my project, Rusty.

Land Rover Discovery 1 1992 200Tdi diesel.

Not too bad looking from the outside, but that's just the beginning!!

This was initial nightmare!!! A careless welder had set fire to the foam insulation on the bulk head and it burned out most of the L/H loom and affected nearly all the circuits in one way or another!!

I am by no means deterred by any of the work I have done on Rusty and many have said that I was robbed when I paid 1200 euro for him but on the other hand I also know the types of people that were looking at him when he was burned out and a non runner!!! All they are looking at is the chance to double their money selling the engine and transmission on to someone else and scrap the rest, but I not only wanted to make him run again, which I have but I want to make him better than he was when new.

I was busy doing some of this...

So once stripped out I got to see what I was dealing with, and it wasn't pretty!!!

So bad bits cut out and it was time to cut and paste it all back together again.

Notice there are a couple of extra cables in the new loom section for a time when I build a roof console to fit even more gadgets in to the truck.

So with the wiring all finished it was time to see if he started......

Video is unavailable thanks to PhotoBucket holding pix & vids to ransom.

So for the first time in over 7 months of being stood waiting for someone to send him to the scrap yard I started him with the aid of my little van as the battery although was fully charged had a dead cell so was useless and in need of replacement.

So with the wiring done I needed to turn my attention to the welding!!!

This is just one hole that I knew of but it didn't stop me wondering why on earth the boot floor was not replaced a few years ago when it first rotted through, the little tabs you see are tin strips that are stuck down with silicone, poor effort just to get through the Kuering!!!

So it went from this...

To this.....

Then on to this.....

Fully seam welded in with some plating done along the edges to replace rotten metal, I had to replace the floor supports as they were rotten beyond salvage but before the boot floor went in I had to deal with this....

All cut out well nearly, as I opted to do a two piece repair as to save the suspension geometry as it can and usually does move!!!

Now I stumbled upon a problem, I needed two more matching 235/75 15" General Grabber for the back axle to replace the racing slicks it came with and the thing is they don't make them anymore and finding them in that size was not to be done so I devised a new plan and wanting to fit taller tyres to give a little diff clearance I decided to fit the 24 spline axles from my old V8 Disco to enable me to use the nice silver deep dish alloys in 16", and well Cooper STT look splendid on them!! This is swapping the back axle and the new tyres....

And new one going in..

And these are the new tyres against the old ones!!

So I still have a million things left to do but the front axle is now top of my list as the old compomotive alloys are sold to another forum member.

Watch this space for more updates.

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Kiwi Jim said:

I'm trying to repair my Landrover Discovery, but know nothing, so I need to learn. Could you help me please? You've cut out and made a repair to the chassis. What gauge of steel did you use and where would one go to get it?

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Kiwi Jim said:

Thanks very much. One more question arising out of this afternoon's battle with the beast, is there a recommended way of removing the bolts which hold the back bumper in place when they're severely rusted?

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dieseldog69 said:

You have two options, one is the two M12 bolts that locate the bumper to the chassis via two mounts or by the four M10 bolts that hold the bumper to the mounting brackets. All will be rusted solid and be a complete pain in the arze to free off, I will say that a nut splitter will help as it is an awkward space to wield a hammer and cold chisel with any precision, belt the nuts off and it should pop off.

You have to remember that the bumper is steel and if you need to, slice and dice it and weld it up again after/replace it.

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Kiwi Jim said:

Thanks again. It had occurred to me that I might drill a reasonably large hole in the bumper and try and cut the end off the bolt through it, then put a blind grommet in the hole, but I wanted to seek advice before attempting that trick.

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dieseldog69 said:

I just remembered that the mounting bracket has a captive nut on the back of it, can't think why I hadn't remembered that earlier

I will say though that you could cut the bottom off the bumper edge to enable you to grind off the M10 bolt heads that hold the bumper to the mounting bracket if they don't come loose?

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Kiwi Jim said:

I've managed to get the plastic end cap off one end of the bumper, so I've gained access to the two bolts inside the bumper. This allows me to put WD40 onto them. Hopefully I'll be able to get them to turn when I come back and try on Thursday.

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dieseldog69 said:

It's blowing a gale and lashing with rain out there today so I think I will be enjoying the comfort of my arm chair today, the extra wide sealing fin has arrived as has the mastic sealing strips for the outer wing to go back on but first I have got to weld it all up

Hope tomorrow is fair weather and then I can get on and attack it.

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