Project lizzie rebuild thread

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GreenHornet said:
Quarter panels removed is definitely the way to go. I wish I had known about it before I started, it would have made my life easier.

To stop the body twisting I would weld in supports between pillars both longitudinally and laterally with an additional diagonal support.

The body is not that heavy that a rotisserie cannot be fashioned easily from heavy box section for not much money. Plus you can sell it on later.
Click to expand...

Could be interesting to see how much rot the quarters are hiding.

Body removal. I could weld in a load of supports that wouldnt be a problem i think theres a load of scrap box section lying around at work i can pinch although the body wont be removed until inner wings have been replaced as the chassis doubles up as a jig.

Whilst the body is still on also will be looking at cutting off the pokey out bit on the rear of the chassis to accommodate the custom box section bumper.

I really like the rotisserie idea might look into that a bit more.
 
UPDATE.

Not much has been happening with project lizzie this week as ive been working 12 hours shifts apart from today! :) So thought I'd get outside again! And its absolutely freezing! :mad:

Anyway..... I managed to get some bits done.... Well cut bits off more like :cool:

First up bye bye anti - roll bar mounts

20130222_160422.jpg


Pictures arent great but there was a mount there.

Second bit i cut off and final bit as i could hardly hold on to the angle grinder as my hands were so cold that i decided to go in once this bit was done and i was happy with it ummm im lost aahh what i cut off!

I cut off the pokey out bit on the rear of the chassis! Got there in the end :p

Reason for cutting this off is because before the body goes back on i plan on fabricating my own 2 inch body lift kit and custom rear bumper made of box section. As i want the bumper to sit as close to the body as possible so that it doesn't look stupid .

I shall stop rabbiting on now as theres nothing more frustrating than someone talking utter bollox when all you want to do is look at some pictures! Sorry :eek:

Heres the pictures.

20130222_160006.jpg

20130222_160022.jpg


All the cuts were completely guessed so it looks a bit ****ed. But i will tidy it up on a warm day when i can hold on to the angle grinder properly. :blah:
 
Inner wing progress.

Completely removed as it was full of holes.

20130224_152243.jpg


Should be getting a load of steel delivered during the week so will be able to start some welding soon :D
 
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Hmmm, will be a nice build this one if its body off.

I would recommend adding 2" body lift blocks when you refit it, if youre ever thinking bigger tyres you will need them eventually on a disco or you'll always be stuck with 33s :(

All the best mon ami, at least we are nearing spring now, you should be finishing up in a few months when the sun is out :D

Cheers!
 
looking good, i havnt done a ody lift but i made my own rear bumper and did same as you so its tucked up nice and close, i cut out the x member completly, and welded some 6mm think angle in, (same size as chassis so about 3/4 inch) and used this to mount my new bumper to
 
Completely removing the inner wing is much better than trying to repair it. Good on ya.

Are you making up the panels yourself or getting replacements from YRM?

The wing extension top rail (the bit the wing bolts to) is still available from LR main dealer as a genuine part for about £18-£20 each
 
Cheers for the comments guys! Its a little daunting at the moment with the amount of work to do seem to cross one thing off the list then add another 3 to it!

Mr Noisy the body lift is definitely going to happen when the body is ready to go back on as tyre wise i was thinking 35s.:cool: or maybe 37s not sure yet?

Paul Mitchell thats not a bad idea completely removing the rear crossmember but i think ill leave it be for now and see what the bumper arrangement looks like when i get that far.

RobP im not keen on patching its just a temporary fix in my eyes id rather replace it.
As for replacements im hoping to fabricate most of my own panels tbh as i can get the steel from a friend in the "business" for next to nothing. Nothing against yrm at all as all there stuff seems top quality from other build threads ive read. Im just a cheapskate and would rather spend my money on other parts of the build.
I shall be ordering some new wing rails at the end of the week.

Wiltshire LandyMan cheers for that picture that seems like a much better idea than what i had! I may have to copy you:tea:
 
37s are great but I think you'll want to lower your gearing slightly, defender transfer case might do the trick but for me low ratio would still be too tall.

Check Ashcroft gear calculator and decide, crown wheel and pinion could be the solution :)
 
Mr Noisy said:
37s are great but I think you'll want to lower your gearing slightly, defender transfer case might do the trick but for me low ratio would still be too tall.

Check Ashcroft gear calculator and decide, crown wheel and pinion could be the solution :)
Click to expand...

I presume the disco and defender transfer boxes are interchangeable without modifications then?
And i shall check out Ashcrofts website for that calculator and see whats what. Tbh when the rear axle is off im going to be fitting one of there air lockers so changing the crown wheel and pinion at the same time shouldn't be to much trouble (i hope).

Also while im talking about this sort of thing what would you guys recommend for the front axle?
Leave as is?
Lsd?
Or air locker?
 
It will be 24 unless you are particularly unlucky.

Ashlockers back and front mate, I believe they are better than ARBs and cheaper!!

Yeah defender transfer box just has slightly lower ratio high ratio because defender has taller tyres from stock.

People fit defender transfer to disco with big tyres and also disco to defender to improve motorway cruising on normal tyres so sometimes you can do straight swap with someone.

BUT much better is to fit Ashcroft super low ratio CWP and then fit higher ratio high ratio in your transfer case, thus you retain stock high range and super low low range, nice :)

But expensive :)

Anyway yeah Ashcroft website is all you need for LR transmission work.
 
Ashlockers front and rear it is then! Was going to use ashcrofts for the rear locker anyways as lots of people rate them highly!
I guess it would be a good idea also whilst im at it to fit ashcrofts diff pegging kit also.
Then maybe HD shafts and CVs
Damn this is getting expensive! :jaw:

Still better sort the welding out first i suppose. Then fitting a v8.:cool:
 
Pegging is the last thing to do effectively BUT there is a but.

You will not need to peg the diff until you have stopped breaking shafts and CVs but a wise old man :p told me last weekend that of course pegging the diff is a good investment.

Ok you may never use it but if you do use that peg, it could be the 100 quid peg that saves you're 1000 quid axle from getting full of chewed up metal and doing more damage.

If you intend to eventually have full Ashcroft axle and 37s then peg those diffs.

Have a look at Megasquirt-v8.co.uk for diff pegging also, might be cheaper/better.

Certainly is an incredible peg job they do.

Always good to see someone willing to get their wallet out, it's the only way to make things awesome :)
 
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