Project Defender 200TDi Engine

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sypher said:
:eek: as MHM said ..... what heat are you applying ? hair dryer , blow torch , oxy ? and for how long mate ? .
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Blow torch mate, for a minute on the last go, i'll have to make up a beefier puller of some description :(

Either that or strap the engine to a trailer and tie the tow rope to the pulley and go for a spin :p
 
rope will prb snap first lol , you might have to bite the bullet and go for broke ( new CVD ) heat the bugger right up and give it a go . the only prob with blow torches is they dont heat big lumps of steel up fast enough so it expands - they tend to heat everything up at the same rate :( .

Or get some thicker steel and longer bolts Paul like this


med_gallery_2_301_293447.jpg
 
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Finally got the fooker out! Used a Teng tool puller which happened to be around a mates house, which i knew existed but didn't think it would work.


I had to lock the crank again and wrapped the whole thing up in a towel as i was expecting something to give, but it didn't ;)
 
Nice one :) , I take it the end of the crank is rusty , as its off look for cracks in the pulley where the seal goes and where the keyway is . My bros had a hairline crack in it .

Clean up the end of the crank so its nice and shiney then coate in WD , your next task after you got the timing chest off ( watch for siezed bolts as the fookers Will snap off ) is to see if the cam belt gear on the crank will oome off ....... thats bastard number 2 - the rest is easy :D .
 
I'm looking to remove the belt and the injector pump anorl to give it a good clean around that side of the engine, any tips for keeping the timing correct after removing all the gearing? If i line it all up and remove it without spinning owt i should be fine, but the injector pump requires locking in place, chances of the injector pump staying in the correct position after i remove the gear has to minute....
 
if you look at the side of the pump ( Ill find a pic in a mo ) theres a 10mm bolt with an arrow shapped washer under it keep this in mind . when shes on TDI and pinned through the slot at the front of the pulley 9.5mm drill bit :) , remove the 3 pully retaining bolts and remove the pulley . As your worryed about the timming pin falling out and it turning you can slacken off that 10mm on the pump and remove the arrowed shapped washer - then Nip the 10 mm back up ( this friction locks the pump shaft ) , you can then remove your timing pin :) .
Just dont loose that washer or attempt to turn the pump as it'll score the hell out of the pump shaft . easy :) .
 
sypher said:
if you look at the side of the pump ( Ill find a pic in a mo ) theres a 10mm bolt with an arrow shapped washer under it keep this in mind . when shes on TDI and pinned through the slot at the front of the pulley 9.5mm drill bit :) , remove the 3 pully retaining bolts and remove the pulley . As your worryed about the timming pin falling out and it turning you can slacken off that 10mm on the pump and remove the arrowed shapped washer - then Nip the 10 mm back up ( this friction locks the pump shaft ) , you can then remove your timing pin :) .
Just dont loose that washer or attempt to turn the pump as it'll score the hell out of the pump shaft . easy :) .
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Sweet trick, that'll do it, will check it out tomorrow mate, cheers Steve :banana:
 
sypher said:
Clean up the end of the crank so its nice and shiny then coat in WD , your next task after you got the timing chest off ( watch for siezed bolts as the fookers Will snap off ) is to see if the cam belt gear on the crank will come off ....... that's bastard number 2 - the rest is easy :D .
Click to expand...

Bastard number 2 is well n truly being a bastard :p Gap between the case and gear is too small to get the puller in there :( coupled with the distance between the bolt head and the gear being too long for my puller, it's a right pain :mad:
 
PaulWilde said:
Bastard number 2 is well n truly being a bastard :p Gap between the case and gear is too small to get the puller in there :( coupled with the distance between the bolt head and the gear being too long for my puller, it's a right pain :mad:
Click to expand...


Time to get the heat out again Paul ... btw heres that pic of the pump locking bolt ( wasnt arrowed - getting mixed up with different IPs ) but anyway here it is on mine looking from underneath . You dont have to fully remove the bolt as the spacing washer is slotted :) .... sorry **** pic , cam phone :( .


DSC04680.jpg
 
Yup i got that Steve, cheers :) btw is the bolt supposed to go all the way in or sit a few mm proud...i know it's friction locking but still....

As for the crankshaft gear, i did some fiddling and fooked if the damn thing is coming off, i had grinded some of the feet on the puller so i could get it inbetween the casing and gear, but it broke at that point before moving anything ( i figured it was a gamble )

How much heat can i use? i don't wanna start damaging the crankshaft internally...is glowing red too much?? (not that i've got to that stage! )

Usual soaking hasn't worked, i even went on a limb and bought some shock spray but that did fook all, hammers, blowtorch's, pullers with clamps on, you name it i've tried it, looking at the crankshaft & gear there is no sign of a difference in the 2, ie they look like they're one piece of metal.

Will upload some pics when i find the cable for the camera.
 
Hey paul , Yes the bolt will stand off a bit from the pump body :) ( I know I keep saying it , but ffs dont forget you locked it that way ) .

I wouldnt go too mad with the heat as far as glowing because its surounded by Ally :( , unless you make up a heat shield of sorts . There about £25 for new ones ( ERR1642 ) so if it gets to that point and you havent damaged it already !!! Id get the grinder out and weaken then hell out of it then a couple of good blows with a hammer and chisel and off it pops .

You should see some threads in the face of the pulley for a puller ( unless there mashed up ) you might get a bite on !!!!! What ya need is to heat the thing up quick with oxy and pull it off that way , either way its got to come off to get to the seal behind it etc .

Come to think of it the whole case might just clear over the gear ???? Im sure one of the lads here will comferm if it does or not coz I cant remember :( . Might be worth a try tho as you can get to it a lot better with the case out the way .
 
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I tried the case over the gear, it doesn't :( as you have pointed out there are 3 threaded holes in the gear itself which i wasn't aware of, so off tomorrow to pick up a flywheel puller of some description to do the job :D

My hopes are up :D

Removed the oil skew gear to check for any internal issues on that side as this engine was ' breathing heavy ' according to WL, there is some excessive play in the bearing, about 3-4mm twisting left n right ( not on the wobble ) so will pick up a new bearing for that as well. The gearing on the ends is clean with a little discolouration to the metal, but not sure it'll warrant a replacement, will check prices first as it could prove to be a pain replacing it with the engine in at a later date.
 
How thick are the teeth on the skewgear/oil /Vac pump drive ? if there worn badly they will be thin at the centres , will take a pic of a worn one for u tomoz .
 
sypher said:
How thick are the teeth on the skewgear/oil /Vac pump drive ? if there worn badly they will be thin at the centres , will take a pic of a worn one for u tomoz .
Click to expand...


This one? ;)

DSC04485.jpg



Mine looks like the one on the left thankfully, so i'm happy to just replace the bearing, now gotta find the part number :D
 
Rang the local landy place today, for £10 they'll take the gear off using the correct tool if i bring it over in the back of mine, so can't argue with that ;)

So job for today is to remove the head and clean up the casings ready for painting.
 
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