Power Drain?

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N

NewFreeLandy

Guest
Evening everybody. Hope you have all had an enjoyable day. Just after a quick bit of advice regarding my FL1. If I don't use it for a couple of days I need to boost the battery to get it going. It was a brand new battery that was fitted a few weeks ago. What would be the best way to see if there is something putting a constant drain on the battery even when the ignition is switched off?
 
Putting a meter int series with the battery negative will allow yer to measure current drawn. But not everyone has one and it's a bit tricky to do with the following method.

Why was the battery changed? If it was happening with the old battery then it's unlikely to be a second problem battery.

To measure the current on a FL1:

Get someone to help yer.
Open the bonnet and put a tie wrap round the bonnet open switch to keep it closed.
Loosen the nut on the negative battery terminal.
Rig up a current meter int series which connects to the negative cable ont battery. Make sure yer able to hold the other end ont battery terminal.
Lock the car with the remote with the battery still connected. The locking and lights being powered is more than most current meters can handle so keep the battery connected while doing this.
Now disconnect the battery with the current meter still int series with the terminal and cable.
Yer now measuring the current when it's locked.
Slide the battery cable over the terminal before unlocking again, without breaking the current meter connections... Because unlocking the car with the current meter int series will probably blow the fuse in the current meter.

If the current meter comes oft then apply power to the FL1 again by fitting the battery cable.

Int past a popular drain ont battery were the heated mirrors.

If yer dun't trust the battery then disconnect it for a day to see if it goes flat on its own is an easier open.

Yer can also buy a current measuring device which fits int fuse holders to measure the current through one fuse at a time. Normally 10 and 20amp measuring options. Get the higher rating if yer can find one.
 
Thanks Hippo. Will have a look at it at some point over the next week. The battery was replaced as it was old and tired.
 
A clamp meter to read the current is really handy. It'll save all that hassle trying to connect your meter in series and watching it go up in smoke cause you did it wrong.
I bought a UNI-T UT210E this year for around 30 quid and can't understand how I managed without for so long without one.
 
Alibro said:
A clamp meter to read the current is really handy. It'll save all that hassle trying to connect your meter in series and watching it go up in smoke cause you did it wrong.
I bought a UNI-T UT210E this year for around 30 quid and can't understand how I managed without for so long without one.
Click to expand...

I agree with Ali. A clamp meter saves an awful lot of messing about. Just make sure you buy one that's designed for DC, as an AC one won't work on DC.
 
Nodge68 said:
I agree with Ali. A clamp meter saves an awful lot of messing about. Just make sure you buy one that's designed for DC, as an AC one won't work on DC.
Click to expand...
The one I mentioned works with DC. It's not the best by a long way but for 99% of what most people need to do it's great.
 
Read the specs carefully if buying a clamp-on meter. The cheaper ones are often AC only and some of the more pricey ones can be misleading as to their ability to measure DC.
 
I have a Tacklife CM01A AC/DC clamp meter. I was about £25 from Amazon. It's a brilliant little meter and gets used all the time for my solar power projects. It measures from milliamps to hundreds of amps, with sufficient accuracy for my needs.
 
That's a great wee meter Nodge. Mine only reads up to 100A which wasn't enough when I was trying to read the current on my homebrew spot welder. For 99% of car related stuff it should be fine though.
 
Alibro said:
That's a great wee meter Nodge. Mine only reads up to 100A which wasn't enough when I was trying to read the current on my homebrew spot welder. For 99% of car related stuff it should be fine though.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ali. It's not that small though. It's feels well made in the hand, and is heavy too, which is something that UniT meters lack. It's my "go to" meter, whenever I want to test current. I've lots of DMMs, but often grab the clamp meter, whenever I'm needing to measure current or volts.

The only thing I don't like is it takes 3 AAA batteries. It's large enough to take 3 AA, which I prefer, due to the higher capacity.
Otherwise it does all I need and it cost buttons.
 
Have yer got a link to it?
I was watching them some time ago int Maplin and they were getting betterer spec wise. I miss Maplin.
 
Hippo said:
Have yer got a link to it?
I was watching them some time ago int Maplin and they were getting betterer spec wise. I miss Maplin.
Click to expand...

Just Google TACKLIFE CM01A and you'll see it's still available for £24.99 from Amazon. ;)
I think it's a good price for its capabilities. But then products from Longgang District, Shenzhen are getting better all the time.:eek:


I miss looking at all the overpriced products that Maplin used to sell, before I bought the same items for a 1/4 of the price from China.:oops:
 
Nodge68 said:
Just Google TACKLIFE CM01A and you'll see it's still available for £24.99 from Amazon. ;)
I think it's a good price for its capabilities. But then products from Longgang District, Shenzhen are getting better all the time.:eek:


I miss looking at all the overpriced products that Maplin used to sell, before I bought the same items for a 1/4 of the price from China.:oops:
Click to expand...
Thanks. I tend to buy from rs now because I can sneek it in with a works order.
 
Hi all. Thanks for all your replies and advice. I decided to go to the place where I bought the new battery from and they tested it for me. Battery is all good. He was also able to check if there was any drain and also the alternator and that came back fine. I think I may have solved the issue (hopefully). I was using an additional alarm fob that came with the FL and have since gone back to using the original LR one that came with the car. Since the change back everything seems to be fine and I have had no issues with having to charge the battery. It makes me think that the other fob (its like an oval shape) was somehow leaving something switched on. The alarm works as it should too (only opening drivers door on 1st click then all on 2 clicks etc.) The car will be parked up for a few days at the weekend so will see if it starts 1st time when I get back.
 
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