Potential Disaster- Advice Needed

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Al2O3 said:
Cheers, Saint.V8. ANY positive news is gratefully received. :) It's sounds like a very likely job on the way. I might be back in touch to pick your brains.

GATSO, I've checked the oil light and it comes on.
Click to expand...
The CHRA can be had for around the £100-120 mark.

The Turbo is essentially 4 major components:
  • The Wastegate actuator assembly
  • The Exhaust Turbine 'snail'
  • The Compressor 'snail'
  • The CHRA
The Exhaust snail is bolted to the CHRA using 4 bolts
The Compressor snail is secured using a large circlip/snap ring
The wastegate actuator is bolted to the Exhaust snal and CHRA - it simple un bolts and the rod is unclipped from the gate.

To replace it is pretty much a case of remove the wastegate actuator.....
Unbolt the Exhaust snail from the CHRA and remove the snail
Observe and remember the relative position of the Compressor snail to the CHRA and then remove the snapring/circlip from the Compressor side and remove the snail

Using a replacement CHRA, refit the Compressor snail in the correct orientation and fit the snapring
Refit the Exhaust snail in the correct orientation and bolt back in place
Refit the Wastegate actuator and Robert is your mothers brother.

Rebuilding or re-balancing the CHRA is a specialist job so don't try that!

Here is a vid of a similar process.....difference is the Exhaust snail on this one is also secured by a snap ring, but aside from that, it is realtively simple!



The CHRA for the Garret (Allied Signal) unit on the 300Tdi is available.
 
Saint.V8 said:
The CHRA can be had for around the £100-120 mark.

The Turbo is essentially 4 major components:
  • The Wastegate actuator assembly
  • The Exhaust Turbine 'snail'
  • The Compressor 'snail'
  • The CHRA
The Exhaust snail is bolted to the CHRA using 4 bolts
The Compressor snail is secured using a large circlip/snap ring
The wastegate actuator is bolted to the Exhaust snal and CHRA - it simple un bolts and the rod is unclipped from the gate.

To replace it is pretty much a case of remove the wastegate actuator.....
Unbolt the Exhaust snail from the CHRA and remove the snail
Observe and remember the relative position of the Compressor snail to the CHRA and then remove the snapring/circlip from the Compressor side and remove the snail

Using a replacement CHRA, refit the Compressor snail in the correct orientation and fit the snapring
Refit the Exhaust snail in the correct orientation and bolt back in place
Refit the Wastegate actuator and Robert is your mothers brother.

Rebuilding or re-balancing the CHRA is a specialist job so don't try that!

Here is a vid of a similar process.....difference is the Exhaust snail on this one is also secured by a snap ring, but aside from that, it is realtively simple!



The CHRA for the Garret (Allied Signal) unit on the 300Tdi is available.
Click to expand...

Absolute Legend. :)
I read Aaron Morris talking about this the other day and thought how did he manage that so easily. Everything I've read in the past has mentioned having to balance and so stay well clear of a DIY job. Presumably, the new CHRA has the new seals attached?
 
If it were mine I would try & find where the oil has come from first !
If not definite fill up with oil ! pull the wire off stop solenoid pull the injectors & turn over & see how fast it turns over & if the oil light goes out & how long it takes to come back on !
 
Al2O3 said:
Absolute Legend. :)
I read Aaron Morris talking about this the other day and thought how did he manage that so easily. Everything I've read in the past has mentioned having to balance and so stay well clear of a DIY job. Presumably, the new CHRA has the new seals attached?
Click to expand...
It does indeed....the critical part is the CHRA internally.....this is where the magic happens with balanced shaft, seals, bearings etc......all you do is bolt the inlet (Compressor) snail and the outlet (Exhaust) snail to it.....simple-pimple.
 
Magicgrotto said:
If it were mine I would try & find where the oil has come from first !
If not definite fill up with oil ! pull the wire off stop solenoid pull the injectors & turn over & see how fast it turns over & if the oil light goes out & how long it takes to come back on !
Click to expand...
And if it throws oil out the injector hole, you know it is ingesting its own lubricant.
 
AND if you suspect it's the turbo all you have to do is take the outlet pipe off & wigggggle the nut on the end of the shaft/spindle & feel how much movement there is !:rolleyes:
 
Magicgrotto said:
If it were mine I would try & find where the oil has come from first !
If not definite fill up with oil ! pull the wire off stop solenoid pull the injectors & turn over & see how fast it turns over & if the oil light goes out & how long it takes to come back on !
Click to expand...
All good stuff. These are the sort of tips I need. Spot on, mate. Cheers.

Saint.V8 said:
It does indeed....the critical part is the CHRA internally.....this is where the magic happens with balanced shaft, seals, bearings etc......all you do is bolt the inlet (Compressor) snail and the outlet (Exhaust) snail to it.....simple-pimple.
Click to expand...
Tremendous. Even if it turns out not to be the turbo I think I'll have to do this. It's 20yrs old and so the seals must be on their last legs (if they haven't just gone today!) Having gone through this today, I'd just be worrying about it going.

Saint.V8 said:
And if it throws oil out the injector hole, you know it is ingesting its own lubricant.
Click to expand...
Like via valve seals or a piston ring. It hasn't been putting out dark smoke though?

Tony e said:
Sounds like turbo and may be thrown a con rod through block or sump due to over reving. Sorry pal. Get under there first before you try anything and have a good look around
Click to expand...
Quizzed the Mrs, no loud bang. I'm guessing there would be a loud bang if a con rod went through the block.
 
Al2O3 said:
I'm guessing there would be a loud bang if a con rod went through the block.
Click to expand...
BIT of a understatement That one ! LOL (ask me how i know :rolleyes:)
That smoke in your vid say's to me it's the turbo on it's way out (ask me how i know )
I now keep my eye on smoke from exhaust in day light hours ! If it's black i'm giving it a bit of pig !:eek:
 
Magicgrotto said:
BIT of a understatement That one ! LOL (ask me how i know :rolleyes:)
That smoke in your vid say's to me it's the turbo on it's way out (ask me how i know )
Click to expand...
Have you had a run away that put a con rod through the block?

Magicgrotto said:
I now keep my eye on smoke from exhaust in day light hours ! If it's black i'm giving it a bit of pig !:eek:
Click to expand...
My smoke was very light and so I, and others, thought it was fuel.
Did you have light coloured smoke before your turbo went? How did it 'go'?

If you've read my 'fuelling' thread. I describe the Landy being flat - low on power- then lurching forward. Perhaps this was the turbo working intermittently? Not a fuelling or timing issue.
 
Magicgrotto said:
HOW do you LOAD vids on here ? got one for Al203 thats worth a look but I can't get it on here :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Click to expand...
Cheers, Magicgrotto. Youtube is what I do. That video is great, thank you. The last time I looked at my turbo like that was about 7 to 8 months ago. It had no sideways movement at all. It had a tiny amount of movement along the spindle axis. It looked like this.
IMG_5014_zpsefoxxs4f.jpg

However, it is 20 years old.
Thank you to everyone for all of your posts. It's helped me no end in coming up with a plan. Which is going to be this.
Get underneath and find out where the oil has come out from. Replace pipes and refill with oil.
Take turbo outlet pipe off and inspect the turbo.
Take pipe off inter-cooler inlet and compare to previous condition. Which was this. Pretty clean.
IMG_5017_zps6690b6a2.jpg

I'm presuming if it has been pulling oil through the turbo it won't look so shiny.
Take injectors out, isolate fuel cut off, turn it over and see if I get any oil pressure, see if any oil spits out of the injector holes. Listen to what it sounds like. Put the USB endoscope camera in each cylinder and look for damage.
Get a compression tester and check each cylinder. It's never been done before, so won't be able to compare to previous condition, but I'll know what it's like now!
Refurbish turbo or get it done professionally. Last night I was seriously considering doing it myself, but I've had some recommendations of good places and the prices are very tempting.
Then take it from there.........
I'm going on holiday in the morning, so unfortunately it won't be until the weekend after next that I get a chance to get a proper look at it. :(
Thanks again gents.
(any other suggestions of things to do/try welcomed)
 
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