potential death rattle

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Nodge68 said:
The HP pump pulley retaining tool is under £25, and the job is about 2-3 hours, so it's perfectly economic to repair, especially as the Freelander 1 is going up in price. ;)
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Two- three hours? I do have a spare on my spares vehicle, so if it comes to it I guess I can take it off that and make any cock ups there first. Haynes gave it 4 spanners, so I thought maybe a bit too convoluted for me. I seem to be ok with three, but four puts me off.

However, it may not come to t hat. I've taken the cover off and I have diesel in the collar (tray?) under the injector heads. I may be able to get someone later to turn the ignition so I can try to see where the leak is. I have read about changing the copper washers. Any other advice on probable cause?
 
Dunno about the TD4, on my L Series its the leak back hoses that perish. Had to replace them twice now.

Dunno if the common rail has such things or if they do whether they are pipes. Presumably there is only 1 needed anyway, from the rail.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Dunno about the TD4, on my L Series its the leak back hoses that perish. Had to replace them twice now.

Dunno if the common rail has such things or if they do whether they are pipes. Presumably there is only 1 needed anyway, from the rail.
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Could be. I replaced all the vacuum hoses when I got it because they were perished. Is that going to make it hard to start though, and give rough idle? Wouldn't it just mean that excess fuel was being leaked after it has passed through the injector? Just realised I do not know where the fuel leaks back to - fuel tank or pump. If it goes back to the tank wouldn't any air in the system caused by a leak in the hose just b released into the tank and not be an issue. If it is a closed system under vacuum then I get that the air would be a problem.

Mind you, it's an obvious thing to look at and try a replacement on, so thanks.

While I[m at it, I nearly bought an L series a while back (wanted one for a while) but I got put off he couldn't tell me if the timing belt had been changed. If one comes up again, is there a mark left somewhere by whoever does the change in your experience? Something to look for I mean. I don't fancy attempting to change that myself.
 
MGT said:
Could be. I replaced all the vacuum hoses when I got it because they were perished. Is that going to make it hard to start though, and give rough idle? Wouldn't it just mean that excess fuel was being leaked after it has passed through the injector? Just realised I do not know where the fuel leaks back to - fuel tank or pump. If it goes back to the tank wouldn't any air in the system caused by a leak in the hose just b released into the tank and not be an issue. If it is a closed system under vacuum then I get that the air would be a problem.

Mind you, it's an obvious thing to look at and try a replacement on, so thanks.

While I[m at it, I nearly bought an L series a while back (wanted one for a while) but I got put off he couldn't tell me if the timing belt had been changed. If one comes up again, is there a mark left somewhere by whoever does the change in your experience? Something to look for I mean. I don't fancy attempting to change that myself.
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The cam belt is the only thing I hand the car over to a garage to do/fix. Not much room down there and I've never done 1, so don't want to take the risk on such an important part.

Not sure if there is anything you can look for. Garage's often write the mileage the belt was changed at on the engine somewhere, or on a sticker on the windscreen. Whether either can be relied on though is another matter!
 
GrumpyGel said:
The cam belt is the only thing I hand the car over to a garage to do/fix. Not much room down there and I've never done 1, so don't want to take the risk on such an important part.

Not sure if there is anything you can look for. Garage's often write the mileage the belt was changed at on the engine somewhere, or on a sticker on the windscreen. Whether either can be relied on though is another matter!
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Good point. Not difficult to put a sticker on somewhere to help flog a car. Yes, when I looked over how to do that belt I realised it was always going to be a bridge too far. Out of interest, is it critical damage if it snaps? I've heard some engines have more tolerance than others.
 
MGT said:
Good point. Not difficult to put a sticker on somewhere to help flog a car. Yes, when I looked over how to do that belt I realised it was always going to be a bridge too far. Out of interest, is it critical damage if it snaps? I've heard some engines have more tolerance than others.
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Yeh it is an "interference" engine so valves will hit pistons.

Probably more L Series engines are killed though by the fan/drive belt! The tensions have a habit of going which throws the belt which then gets caught and wrapped round the main pulley and pushes the cam belt off.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Yeh it is an "interference" engine so valves will hit pistons.

Probably more L Series engines are killed though by the fan/drive belt! The tensions have a habit of going which throws the belt which then gets caught and wrapped round the main pulley and pushes the cam belt off.
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Thanks. I want one a bit less now, which helps with the craving.
 
MGT said:
Could be. I replaced all the vacuum hoses when I got it because they were perished. Is that going to make it hard to start though, and give rough idle? Wouldn't it just mean that excess fuel was being leaked after it has passed through the injector? Just realised I do not know where the fuel leaks back to - fuel tank or pump. If it goes back to the tank wouldn't any air in the system caused by a leak in the hose just b released into the tank and not be an issue. If it is a closed system under vacuum then I get that the air would be a problem.

Mind you, it's an obvious thing to look at and try a replacement on, so thanks.

While I[m at it, I nearly bought an L series a while back (wanted one for a while) but I got put off he couldn't tell me if the timing belt had been changed. If one comes up again, is there a mark left somewhere by whoever does the change in your experience? Something to look for I mean. I don't fancy attempting to change that myself.
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The timing belt on the L series isn't difficult. It's only got 2 pulleys to line up, and those are locked in place with pins. It really isn't difficult, much easier than the 1.8 K series.

The L series is much more reliable than the TD4, and generally cheaper to fix should you be unlikely enough to have it go wrong.

If you like a challenge, then the KV6 timing belts are much more involved, but still possible for a skilled DIYer. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The timing belt on the L series isn't difficult. It's only got 2 pulleys to line up, and those are locked in place with pins. It really isn't difficult, much easier than the 1.8 K series.

The L series is much more reliable than the TD4, and generally cheaper to fix should you be unlikely enough to have it go wrong.

If you like a challenge, then the KV6 timing belts are much more involved, but still possible for a skilled DIYer. ;)
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I quite like a challenge but I am not skilled by any stretch of the imagination. What I have been able to do is only because of you tube and help form people like you and GrumpyGel on this site. I'd be lost without it, so thanks once again for your helps.
 
If anyone picks this up, I'm pulling the injectors out of my donor vehicle to clean them up, ready to use as replacements if need them when I do the same to the injectors in my working vehicle. I've got a couple of basic questions: are they a straightforward swap from 2003 to 2004. And when replacing them either one for the other or putting the original cleaned up back in, is there anything I need to do after I hook it all back up before I fire it up? I have ordered replacement washers and O rings, so that will be done. I just want to know if there is any prepping sequence I need to go through.
 
If the injectors were ok in the donor, then they'll be ok in your daily without cleaning. Sometimes cleaning them can make them go wrong, unless of course you're practiced at refurbishing common rail injectors.
 
Nodge68 said:
If the injectors were ok in the donor, then they'll be ok in your daily without cleaning. Sometimes cleaning them can make them go wrong, unless of course you're practiced at refurbishing common rail injectors.
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No, first time I've tried this. I've pulled all four out of the donor and they wiped off okish. There's black carbon around the nozzle tip and what looks like calcium on the nozzle shaft, but then I guess you would not expect them to be pristine. If I do as you suggest and not take them apart is it worth soaking the tips in some cleaning agent?
 
Cheers. Incidentally I've just watched a video on replacing the high pressure pump and it does seem doable. I think I will take it off the donor anyway. One thing I didn't quite follow was using a bolt to lock the flywheel - he couldn't get the camera in there.
 
MGT said:
Incidentally I've just watched a video on replacing the high pressure pump and it does seem doable.
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I've done HP pump replacements several times. It's not too involved. The FL1 TD4 on the whole isn't bad to work on.
The pump sprocket needs locking in the running location, which is what the locking tool is for. It basically keeps the sprocket from falling into the sump, which would be bad.

Other than getting to grips with the locking tool, and actually getting access to the side of the engine to access the plug, the rest is basically straightforward.
 
Nodge68 said:
I've done HP pump replacements several times. It's not too involved. The FL1 TD4 on the whole isn't bad to work on.
The pump sprocket needs locking in the running location, which is what the locking tool is for. It basically keeps the sprocket from falling into the sump, which would be bad.

Other than getting to grips with the locking tool, and actually getting access to the side of the engine to access the plug, the rest is basically straightforward.
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Thanks for your help.
 
MGT said:
If anyone picks this up, I'm pulling the injectors out of my donor vehicle to clean them up, ready to use as replacements if need them when I do the same to the injectors in my working vehicle. I've got a couple of basic questions: are they a straightforward swap from 2003 to 2004. And when replacing them either one for the other or putting the original cleaned up back in, is there anything I need to do after I hook it all back up before I fire it up? I have ordered replacement washers and O rings, so that will be done. I just want to know if there is any prepping sequence I need to go through.
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...
Nodge68 said:
If the injectors were ok in the donor, then they'll be ok in your daily without cleaning. Sometimes cleaning them can make them go wrong, unless of course you're practiced at refurbishing common rail injectors.
Click to expand...
There have been some threads go through where people have cleaned or reconditioned their injectors, and the results have ranged from really good, to really bad!

If you know your parts car injectors are in good condition, maybe you try cleaning your existing ones - then you know that if it all goes 'bad', then you have the good ones to fall back on.

Just a suggestion. Its probably easier just to use know good ones :D

There is a really good thread on here where someone stripped their injectors right down and replaced the 'serviceable' items - ie as a reconditioner would do. The results were really good and cheap (reconditioned injectors cost a fortune). However, the bits and pieces are tiny and fiddly - its the sort of job to take on if you are an experienced model maker or summat.
 
GrumpyGel said:
...

There have been some threads go through where people have cleaned or reconditioned their injectors, and the results have ranged from really good, to really bad!

If you know your parts car injectors are in good condition, maybe you try cleaning your existing ones - then you know that if it all goes 'bad', then you have the good ones to fall back on.

Just a suggestion. Its probably easier just to use know good ones :D

There is a really good thread on here where someone stripped their injectors right down and replaced the 'serviceable' items - ie as a reconditioner would do. The results were really good and cheap (reconditioned injectors cost a fortune). However, the bits and pieces are tiny and fiddly - its the sort of job to take on if you are an experienced model maker or summat.
Click to expand...


Good idea on doing the existing ones first. I watched a video where the bloke took them apart and then laid the parts out in sequence, so reassembly is fairly straightforward. Simple thing to lay the pieces out in the order you take them off the injector then photograph them int hat order. I've got the 0 rings and new washers coming today or tomorrow, and those are probably the only parts I will replace. If anything is badly damaged on the existing ones I will just put a replacement in. I will find that thread, thanks.
 
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