Pipe identification.

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Maurand

Active Member
Posts
156
Location
Wiltshire
Hi,
I hope some an possibly help in identifying a pipe....
I'm just about to move over to/up to a 2000 V8 from a 300TDI.
Please bear with me on this because the car is not here and I can't post an image so this could be a little vague.
This is a small bore black pipe that appears to come from the radiator header tank area on the left, looking from the front, and finishes under the manifold close by the throttle cable quadrant. By the clips on it it could well be a pressure pipe. The end of the pipe has corroded off the manifold. Now the car really has been very well looked after so I'm baffled why it's not been picked up before. In testing the car, the pipe was discovered after the test, there seen to be no problems at all by it being disconnected. So concerned it's going to cause problems, though it'll be sorted ASAP.
And while I've searched and searched the question of engine oil seems pretty much a mine field of recommendations, the engine has done 100k, am I right in thinking a good quality 20/50 is the correct stuff for it with a genuine oil filter ?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.

Graham.
 
Thank you, so if I may ask where and how should it be bypassed because the end of the pipe at the moment looks to be blocked up with corroded alloy. Just do not want a problem with it on my first journey home of 25 miles. Though as I said it looks like it's been like that for ages and was running fine during the test drive, certainly don't want a water leak until I'm safe at home so you maybe able to understand my concern.
Again thank you for your reply.
Graham
 
Should be two pipes together under teh throttle body - one comes from the manifold and the other goes to the header tank. When running, coolant comes out of the manifold, through the heater unit under the throttle body, and then goes off to the header tank. The purpose is to avoid throttle body icing* which contrary to what many may think is a real thing. It's common for these small pipes to be clogged with rust/corrosion/"stuff" so clearing them is a routine part of an engine overhaul.
It's also the means of purging air from the top of the engine, so there should be a pipe there, even if it's only from the manifold to the header tank.
* With the throttle anything but wide open, there's a pressure drop across it. When you reduce the pressure, the temperature reduces, and if the air is damp which isn't exactly unknown in the UK ;) then condensation forms. If the air is also cold, then the temperature drop may also take it below freezing, at which point the condensation can freeze and obstruct the airflow. It's generally not a problem for injected engines - with carbs, there's also refrigeration from the fuel evaporating which widens the range of conditions it can occur in.
 
Thank you Simon,
The pipe that runs to the header tank has corroded off, some signs of red antifreeze/corrosion in the end of it. Because it's been running like that for undoubtedly some time I think it'll be blanked off some where so I hope it gets me 25 miles home when I pick it up on Friday. Then I can sort it out one way or the other though the fitting into the throttle body is now off and only held in the pipe.
Considering the car has been looked after very well I'm surprised it's like this.
Graham
 
Sounds like you've been advised about the mystery pipe (I didn't know what it was anyway - it's not fitted to earlier classics like mine) but as to the engine oil I'd recommend a good quality mineral 20w/50 with high ZDDP content, because the RV8 is a flat-tappet engine. Millers market such oils & Valvoline VR1 racing oil is a favourite with many RV8 owners, both with LR's & classic Rover cars. Always use a genuine filter.
 
Thanks, seems like it's a new learning curve regarding the V8 and oils. With the 300tdi just good quality stuff was fine now I'm into high ZDDP content....possibly have to get it on line, not a lot of places around Warminster who do cars, maybe Halfords if necessary, they do their Classic 20/50 if that's okay.
What is the difference between genuine filters and the Framm/Coopers I used on the 300? Both same LR part number/type.
Even found a site saying the engine oil should be drained then filled up before removing the filter then fitting that fully filled with oil to help it prime and not suck air....getting paranoid now, only a car after all.
Thanks again.
 
Fram & Coopers are good makes - chances are that the one you can buy for several times the price and painted green comes from them.
As to oil changes, yes the Rover V8 oil system has something of a reputation. The theory is that if you remove the oil filter while the sump is drained then the system drains down (even more than normal) and it then won't prime itself afterwards. Not suffered it myself, and slightly sceptical to be honest, but it costs nothing to do it that way anyway.
Filling the filter with oil before fitting is just good practice - it reduces the time it takes to fill it and build up pressure the first time you start the engine afterwards. Just fitting an empty filter means your engine runs with no oil for some time after startup as all the oil is going to fill the filter first.
 
When I used to change the oil & filter on my V8s I changed oil, replaced filter which was topped up with oil, took off the +ve to the coil and cranked the engine until the dash oil pressure warning light went off; connect coil and AOK.

capo (currently V8-less but spending as much on fuel in my 1985 2.5 petrol!)
 
In the days when I used to do my own servicing I changed the filter (part filling the new one prior to fitting) after the old oil had drained & on re-starting the oil pressure warning light was out within 2-3 seconds. Halfraud's/Comma classic 20w/50 is a decent mineral oil but doesn't have the same level of ZDDP as those I mentioned, which is 1200 ppm. As for the filter, it doesn't have to be genuine LR - other well known brands are ok so long as they incorporate a non-return valve.
 
To be honest I don't know why I'm stressing. Should know after all I did full my apprenticeship with Mercedes, but that was fifty years ago. Think I've lost confidence in repairing cars, even servicing them. Possibly because I don't want to do it now, too old and no where to work. But now I'll switch on a new amp with many hundreds of volts on the anode and not blink an eyelid. Times change and so have I.
 
Maurand said:
To be honest I don't know why I'm stressing. Should know after all I did full my apprenticeship with Mercedes, but that was fifty years ago. Think I've lost confidence in repairing cars, even servicing them. Possibly because I don't want to do it now, too old and no where to work. But now I'll switch on a new amp with many hundreds of volts on the anode and not blink an eyelid. Times change and so have I.
Click to expand...

I know how you feel, I was never a mechanic but always did my own servicing & basic repairs on a variety of vehicles including military trucks from the 'forties. A combination of the circumstances that apply to you, plus a degree of laziness, put me into the same category :rolleyes:
 
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