Petrol light, radiator gauge and handbrake light on and beep!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
ukadamwest said:
Gearbox oil is easy. Doesn't even need a jack. lie on your back about 2/3rds down the drivers door pull yourself underneath.. the gearbox sump has large has head plug facing forward get a large socket on the hex head, undo it stick your finger in the hole if you can touch fluid it's ok if not put some in.

A filter change is easy undo the sump bolts sickening off the bolts on the cross member as it will be fiddly getting it off.. undo the filter with torx heads (iirc) remove filter. put new o ring on filter bolt new filter up new gasket on the sump put sump back on fill up (cant remember quantity for a sump refill but RAVE will tell you) and then follow process as per RAVE to exercise the shift. job done. light up a cigar.
Click to expand...

That sounds so easy....I’ll follow y0ur instructions and report back :)
Thank you for your patience:
 
Sump looks like this.

Oh I didnt say drain it if you are doing a filter change.. But thought that would be obvious.. unless you like a face full of stinky gear oil.
Sump 1.JPG
 
I’d check earths, then battery is topped up - won’t cost anything but few pence in leccy.

If bulbs in message centre are still gone and you’ve checked the dimming switch, there is a fuse (since they don’t normally all go together) but they are 3x 40p bulbs at a motor factors.

You have to remove the battery first...

Then panel under s.wheel, then binnacle surround - be careful with fuel gate button and it’s cables or any Yellow SRS cables. The binnacle will then come out. All this part sounds bit fussy but it’s only really a few screws.
0762BCB1-0A79-4B83-97AB-0ED2042792E5.jpeg

Old bulbs twist out, new ones in.

These are the bulbs -
kds said:
Message centre lit by 3 bulbs did mates couple weeks ago, 1.2 watt 12 volt miniature capless cost me about 35p each from motor factors.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
RangeRoller dt said:
This guy is handy.
The SRS part shows you how to get to the bulbs
Click to expand...

Thanks for these post replies. Super helpful. I’d like to think we can do that but I will order some bulbs and try...
You mentioned the dimmer...,it’s definitely a bulb loss as half the display unit is dark and half is bright but how do you access a dimmer please so I know for future.
Thank you
 
CJMoore said:
Thanks for these post replies. Super helpful. I’d like to think we can do that but I will order some bulbs and try...
You mentioned the dimmer...,it’s definitely a bulb loss as half the display unit is dark and half is bright but how do you access a dimmer please so I know for future.
Thank you
Click to expand...

Dimmer is on the left hand stalk.

Bulbs are easy to replace. Just need to get the binnacle out without snapping any of the plastic tabs. Some hamfisted gorilla must have tried to do mine before I got it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Dimmer is on the left hand stalk.

Bulbs are easy to replace. Just need to get the binnacle out without snapping any of the plastic tabs. Some hamfisted gorilla must have tried to do mine before I got it.
Click to expand...

So annoying when people are hamfisted isn’t it. The cover/casing under my passenger seat doesn’t sit properly as someone before me just yanked it out.
Sorry to be blonde....but what’s a left hand stalk?
 
CJMoore said:
So annoying when people are hamfisted isn’t it. The cover/casing under my passenger seat doesn’t sit properly as someone before me just yanked it out.
Sorry to be blonde....but what’s a left hand stalk?
Click to expand...

You know the stalks with the wipers and indicators and so forth? Try looking for a little lever on top. ;-)
 
ukadamwest said:
Sump looks like this.

Oh I didnt say drain it if you are doing a filter change.. But thought that would be obvious.. unless you like a face full of stinky gear oil.
View attachment 184668
Click to expand...
So we found it and checked it. It’s is full of fluid so that’s good. The bolt to the sump was sticky but the reservoir was full. We loosened and tightened it again. So...back to the drawing board. Will check earths next I guess. Currently trying to replace dash bulbs following a video sent...:so far so good there.
 
ukadamwest said:
its a bad earth on the electrics side. does everything cut out briefly ?

as to the fluid leak, possibly.. have you checked the gearbox oil? you need to undo the hex key and pop your finger in if you can touch oil its ok, if not the level has dropped. the gearbox feeds oil to a cooler via a pipe and runs back again. I've just replaced my oil cooler as it sprung a leek.

the occasional gearbox shift being tight is the shift cable from the selector to the gearbox
Click to expand...

Hi, quick update. We took the car out again today and the same thing happened and this time it was very clear to see that yes....you are right. The power failed briefly and the lights came on (oil/handbrake/petrol) and the air con stopped blowing. It all happened very fast and recovered itself. It happened twice on a five minute journey. Any ideas? We have checked the earth as many as we can find. I was so excited it failed as it was what you said .
 
There is cluster bolted on front chassis leg you can see where I cleaned mine up and painted it to keep it clean with whatever I had in the shed (blue)... zoom in
0DF40B31-0D7C-4F6B-A7C0-261D42A9B2CC.jpeg


one underneath thick cable going to gearbox side but I have a manual transmission so may be different to yours?
 
Rangerovers.net has an electrical troubleshooting guide. Best work through it. Could be loose battery clamp terminal (the earth sometimes is a bit loose) or could be a cable corroded inside or could be fusebox. :O
 
CJMoore said:
Hi, quick update. We took the car out again today and the same thing happened and this time it was very clear to see that yes....you are right. The power failed briefly and the lights came on (oil/handbrake/petrol) and the air con stopped blowing. It all happened very fast and recovered itself. It happened twice on a five minute journey. Any ideas? We have checked the earth as many as we can find. I was so excited it failed as it was what you said .
Click to expand...


I thought as much. mine is doing the same thing. last week I used it for 4 hours straight 2 hours one way and 2 hours back.. didn't do it at all, yet if I use to drop the little one at nursery, it always does it as the same point pulling up to a junction that is on an incline and that I 5 minute journey. it has to be a loose earth internally as the engine doesn't miss a beat, but all the electrics inside go out for a second and resume as if nothing happened. no code required for the radio so I think it has to be on the inside or main fuse box (which I replaced oh 5-6 years ago). same symptoms ?

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, what with the L322 on axle stands awaiting new brake discs and a bush removing kit to do the hub carrier bushes, working away during the week and been away with the family several weekends in a row.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
There is cluster bolted on front chassis leg you can see where I cleaned mine up and painted it to keep it clean with whatever I had in the shed (blue)... zoom in
View attachment 184705

one underneath thick cable going to gearbox side but I have a manual transmission so may be different to yours?
Click to expand...


is that like … an engine ?? where's the rest of it ??

this is what a P38 engine looks like..
20170415_102537.jpg
 
brianp38dse said:
Have you checked the battery teminals and the fuse box connections.
Click to expand...
When we did the dash lights we tried to disconnect battery and it was impossible to either tighten or loosen it so we did with it on. Will have another look at battery. Thank you
ukadamwest said:
I thought as much. mine is doing the same thing. last week I used it for 4 hours straight 2 hours one way and 2 hours back.. didn't do it at all, yet if I use to drop the little one at nursery, it always does it as the same point pulling up to a junction that is on an incline and that I 5 minute journey. it has to be a loose earth internally as the engine doesn't miss a beat, but all the electrics inside go out for a second and resume as if nothing happened. no code required for the radio so I think it has to be on the inside or main fuse box (which I replaced oh 5-6 years ago). same symptoms ?

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, what with the L322 on axle stands awaiting new brake discs and a bush removing kit to do the hub carrier bushes, working away during the week and been away with the family several weekends in a row.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. It’s so annoying isn’t it. We do experience a loss of power too though, the car continues to drive but with no ‘oomph’ at all...its very sluggish. In fact that’s when you know it’s about to happen, car struggles and lights come on briefly moments later.... then it is ok for a little while and then problems. Now happening more and more frequently. Shame as it was doing fine after the last issue!
I’m putting my ancient Porsche 924 on the road at present (awaiting new exhaust so it will pass CT (French MOT) literally just so I have a car that works. The engine in that is so simple I think my 11 year old son could fix it.
Just want to sort the Rangey though, will continue to try ideas tomorrow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
L494 strange warning light.
Replies
18
Views
1K
gstuart
gstuart
awkwardbob
L322 Fuel Gauge Callibration
Replies
0
Views
697
awkwardbob
awkwardbob
S
L322 SC Electrical Issues. Terrain control, Handbrake
Replies
0
Views
411
spitfire
S
R
TüV problem in Germany
Replies
0
Views
319
roythebus
R
A
Fuel gauge and fuel light issue
Replies
9
Views
666
Acdadefender1
A
Back
Top