Painting axles

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Paul Webster

Paul Webster

New Member
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26
The axles on my 90 are starting to look a bit tired, paint has flaked off and small rust spots appearing. I've read a few posts and the general consensus seems to be to strip them to bare metal with a wire cup on a grinder, paint in red oxide then a finish coat over that. My question is, do I need to remove them or can I leave them on to do this? Also, would hammerite be ok as the top coat?
 
Hammerite is fine as the top coat... in fact I would even venture to suggest that if you are using hammerite you wouldn't need the red oxide under coat.... however I would be worried that if you do no remove it then you will not get decent coat on the more hard to reach bits
 
I usually use hammerite smooth, don't use red oxide hammerite doesn't like it and is difficult to paint over ,

If you add a little hammerite thinners to the paint it will make it easier to brush on..
 
You could always go the whole hog and get them acid dipped like I have:

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My mate is etch priming and painting them this week via a spray gun. :)
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I had looked at the hammerite smooth and they claim it can be applied directly to rust, wasn't too sure on that though. Removing the axles for a paint job might be a bit more work than I was hoping for so ill have a look under and see if I can get everywhere with a brush. Was thinking of just putting it on stands and taking the wheels off.
 
Can be applied direct to rust. Seals it up.

I pressure washed mine then quick sanding on rough areas/mild rust areas.

3 coats of hammerite, been off road twice been on there 3 months now and still solid
 
Personally I am not a fan of hard coatings such as Hammerite, Smoothrite etc as in my experience they are too susceptible to stone chips and the like.

Many years ago I painted the axles and rear cross-member on my 90 with Smoothrite (the rest of the underside was undersealed) and indeed it all looked ok for a while but then stone chips started to appear and of course corrosion can follow unless you are quick to seal it up again. Since then Smoothrite has been banned from anywhere impact damage is expected and underseal is king (as proved my many years use).
A decent underseal like Hammerite Underbody Seal is perfect. It is not sticky when dry yet remains flexible and can easily be touched up if it does get damaged.
 
They need a bit of work but my current axles have got these very diff pans fitted and I'll be selling them on in the next month or so.
 
dont waste your time with red oxide, might as well use dulux emulsion, the lead that made it such a good paint was banned many many years ago.... still sells as people still associate it with what it once was..... i still swear by temaprime as an undercoat.... steel industry use it extensively for outdoor construction, its a galv rich paint although certain there are many others

hammerite does and will chip, done my entire chassis in temaprime , then hammerite but have finally top coated with loads of waxoyl to be safe

left the axles in hammerite but will ensure i touch up as and when required

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cheers steve
 
Do not rely on hammerite to protect from rust on its own.
I wire brused mine clean with a grinder then applied a couple of coats of hammerite as per instructions on the tin.

My rebuild has been slow to say the least, but i was disappointed to see rust coming through the paint after less than 2years of being stood in a dry garage.

Maybe with a decent rust killer first.... Maybe with a decent undercoat..... But i certainly won't be going out of my way to ever use a hammerite product again. I blame it on the re-blend when the low VOC rules came in.
 
arc said:
Do not rely on hammerite to protect from rust on its own.
I wire brused mine clean with a grinder then applied a couple of coats of hammerite as per instructions on the tin.

My rebuild has been slow to say the least, but i was disappointed to see rust coming through the paint after less than 2years of being stood in a dry garage.

Maybe with a decent rust killer first.... Maybe with a decent undercoat..... But i certainly won't be going out of my way to ever use a hammerite product again. I blame it on the re-blend when the low VOC rules came in.
Click to expand...

very good point.... i kurusted everything before starting to paint... its a love hate chelating agent but ive always had very good results, had metal items treated and not painted afterwards sat around for two+ years n still no rust starting

cheers steve
 
ebbadger said:
dont waste your time with red oxide, might as well use dulux emulsion, the lead that made it such a good paint was banned many many years ago.... still sells as people still associate it with what it once was..... i still swear by temaprime as an undercoat.... steel industry use it extensively for outdoor construction, its a galv rich paint although certain there are many others

hammerite does and will chip, done my entire chassis in temaprime , then hammerite but have finally top coated with loads of waxoyl to be safe
Click to expand...

afaik, red oxide is now made with zinc phosphate, like a lot of 'anti rust' grey primers. Zinc rich, high 90s, is good stuff as it forms the sacrificial coat. Cold galv spray is this. Heavy and pricey paint :D
 
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