P38 non start,

stopped and started it a few times and all ok, remote open and closed, a few times, left it running ,then turned it off, then remote wont work again, and it wont start again

had a look at the fuse box today and all the conections on the under side look fine and clean. the remote opened it this morning and it started, then when turned off, remote would not work again, as long as i dont lock the doors on the key it will start if i lock it then open on the key it wont start.

sounds like it could be the micro switches in the door actuator the switches send a signal to the door outstation and from there to the becm does the central locking work on the sill switch on the drivers door? if so try sitting in the car lock with the fob then unlock with the fob then put the key in the ignition and see what the display says in theory it should start

it sounds as though it is locking and immobilising ok but not taking the immobiliser off hence the problem with the unlock with the key

i did take the lock out the door and looked at the switches and sprayed with wd 40 , have tried shutting the door and sitting in it, and opening with the remote, but locking didnt open and said engine disabled,press remote. but nothing happened. alll the doors open if unlock with the key lock or the door button, and the same to lock.

it sounds like your rf box is on its way out..

ye think will have to try a RF box, or borrow one and see what happens

mine oes it some times, i look it with key 4 times and that does mine fussy bloody thing it is..

have tried the lock code but that doesnt do any thing, even if i put the wrong code i dont get lock out, so it must reconise the key ok , i would of thought that as the red light on the dash top goes out it would start

no that would be to easy, just think on if it never played up. you would not come on here and have nothing to complain about, bloody range rovers.. lol on a bad day i could burn mine, but most of the time i just love it..

well it seems it could of been the door switches, as it seems to working ok at the moment, how ever I took it on a 120 mile trip and on the way back 5 mile from home, it lost power, when over 3500 rpm then easy back and slow back on the throttle and it would pick up untill 3500 rpm. have not had chance to try it since. so will give it a go at the weekend.

Thanks to all for suggestions

Update to my p38 problems,
Alls been well for a while, the loss of power has not happened again, the locking has been working and starting. last night it didnt unlock on the remote and wouldnt start, so i tried the code using the key in the lock code, and it worked.
Car started and then the remote worked fine.
Tonight the same thing happened, can any body tell me if these sync mate units sold on e bay will sort this problem as they says if it turns over and wont start this will sort it, but mine does not turn over when this happens.
so will the unit work for me ?

Look forward to hearing from any body that has used one.
thanks

no it wont work for you, you are getting key code lock out..

j the range said:

no it wont work for you, you are getting key code lock out..

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Syncmate is to get BECM talking again to engine ECU if lost sync, and having to use EKA all the time, as well as being a right PITA, indicates an underlying fault, usually battery drain. Try taking blue aerial wire off RF unit for a few days, see if less drain through waking BECM.

Just had new RF on mine - was the cause of multiple problems; new drivers door handle/switches, 2 sets C/L motors burnt out, and a new BECM

For the sake of £170 and 10mins work it's worth getting the RF replaced.

the blue wire is disconected from the rf unit, this stopped me having flat battery problems the battery has not been flat for a while

Then I'd be getting a new RF unit for sure; mine was off for weeks, still had probs. New unit been on 3 days now & (touch wood, crossed fingers, legs, nuts) it's behaved purrrrrrrfect!

well to all ,thanks for all your suggestions, a new receiver didnt do the trick, so in the end i have had the imobiliser turned off, and just open the doors on the key, and away it goes, now to the leaking heater matrix