P38 key code lock out

Hi all, had a day going through all the threads and trying all the listed fixes but still no joy. Been away for 4 weeks and the Battery on my 2001 2.5 DHSE ran down while I was away, took it off and charged it up, the alarm activated when I re-connected, tried both fobs no joy, got in let the alarm stop and put the key in the ignition, in the past after a battery swap (car or fob) the key led flashes when it's inserted and it re-sincs but not this time, ended up with the key code lockout message looked through the forums and tried all the fixes listed (drivers door hold the lock button 5 secs etc) tried leaving the key in pos 2 for the 30 min reset time but still nothing, as I said, in the past just placing the keys into the ignition after any power down and they sinced no probs but then the alarm was off when I did this, because the alarm was on when the battery ran down it's still on with the charged battery connected, I don't have the eac but doubt it would work anyway as I have tried the 4 turns to the left but no flash of the indicators to say it's ready for the eac to be used, the locking won't operate from either door switch any info would be most welcome

It needs the EKA code to be input and accepted before fob can be synced. Keycode lockout means you have tried to input the EKA code wrongly three times. You will have to wait for it to go off then input correct EKA code. Do it twice only then open and close drivers door for two more attempts without getting keycode lockout. Enter EKA code properly and slowly do not rush it. Make sure each turn left or right is complete and returned to central. Get the EKA from the dealers.

I am waiting for the dealer to get back to me with the code but am not sure it will work, the forums say you start with 4 turns of the key to the left and then the indicators should flash to say it's ready for the EKA code to be input, tried the four turns but nothing so the switch could be US, just had a call from the dealer I've got to do a 20+ mile round trip with proof of ID and V5 before they will try and there's no guarantee they can get it because of it's age

roger01 said:

I am waiting for the dealer to get back to me with the code but am not sure it will work, the forums say you start with 4 turns of the key to the left and then the indicators should flash to say it's ready for the EKA code to be input, tried the four turns but nothing so the switch could be US, just had a call from the dealer I've got to do a 20+ mile round trip with proof of ID and V5 before they will try and there's no guarantee they can get it because of it's age

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What year is it? You list it as a DHSE in your info they are only 1999 and on.

If the doors do not all lock-unlock from the key in the drivers door then I would think that at least that switch is duff and may be why you cannot get it to see any entries?
When I got the dreaded "Engine Disabled" message and I didn't have the EKA code I was (unusually) successful with a main battery disconnect for 10 mins, key in and at position 2 and reconnect battery. Magically I was then able to start the engine and re-synch the fob. However, I am in a minority of folks for whom this procedure has worked. If you have tried everything else.....

roger01 said:

I am waiting for the dealer to get back to me with the code but am not sure it will work, the forums say you start with 4 turns of the key to the left and then the indicators should flash to say it's ready for the EKA code to be input, tried the four turns but nothing so the switch could be US, just had a call from the dealer I've got to do a 20+ mile round trip with proof of ID and V5 before they will try and there's no guarantee they can get it because of it's age

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That's them covering their arses. It could possibly have had the BECM swapped but unlikely.

If the central locking wasn't working then you cannot input the EKA without diagnostics or shorting the connections on the bottom of the driver's door to trick it into thinking the key is turning left and right. It needs all 3 microswitches to work.

The EKA entry procedure is in the driver's handbook. There might be differences between years.

It's a 2001 2.5 Diesel, when I bought it some 7/8 years ago I was told it was the HSE with all the bit's and bobs (Harman Kardon etc),
Tried the reconnecting the battery with the key is pos 2 a couple of times but no joy, if I manage to get the EKA from the dealers i will have to take the door apart to see if I can sort out whatever the problem is with the door switch.

roger01 said:

It's a 2001 2.5 Diesel, when I bought it some 7/8 years ago I was told it was the HSE with all the bit's and bobs (Harman Kardon etc),
Tried the reconnecting the battery with the key is pos 2 a couple of times but no joy, if I manage to get the EKA from the dealers i will have to take the door apart to see if I can sort out whatever the problem is with the door switch.

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There might be someone with a Nanocom near you if you are lucky. Try the Landyzone International Rescue Map. I used to pass through Sheffield on a regular basis but unfortunately for you I've not been up there in ages.

roger01 said:

It's a 2001 2.5 Diesel, when I bought it some 7/8 years ago I was told it was the HSE with all the bit's and bobs (Harman Kardon etc),
Tried the reconnecting the battery with the key is pos 2 a couple of times but no joy, if I manage to get the EKA from the dealers i will have to take the door apart to see if I can sort out whatever the problem is with the door switch.

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You may need someone with a Nanocom or Faultmate.

The locking has been fine all the time I have had the car, from both fobs or both front door sill switches, never actually used the key to unlock the car so don't know weather it ever locked/unlocked via the key in the first place

roger01 said:

The locking has been fine all the time I have had the car, from both fobs or both front door sill switches, never actually used the key to unlock the car so don't know weather it ever locked/unlocked via the key in the first place

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The micro switches always fail eventually.

roger01 said:

The locking has been fine all the time I have had the car, from both fobs or both front door sill switches, never actually used the key to unlock the car so don't know weather it ever locked/unlocked via the key in the first place

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Should be fine once the message goes then. Unless you tried too many times in which case it'll need more serious kit to get in.

Been to Guy Salmon at Sheffield today to get the EKA, they pulled up all the details for the car but the EKA code had been blanked out, they looked up one they had searched and obtained last week and that was now blanked out, they believe that Land Rover have now stopped dealers from obtaining EKA codes and advised me to contact LR customer services direct to get the code, the saga continues

roger01 said:

Been to Guy Salmon at Sheffield today to get the EKA, they pulled up all the details for the car but the EKA code had been blanked out, they looked up one they had searched and obtained last week and that was now blanked out, they believe that Land Rover have now stopped dealers from obtaining EKA codes and advised me to contact LR customer services direct to get the code, the saga continues

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Try another stealer, some will do it over the phone.

roger01 said:

Been to Guy Salmon at Sheffield today to get the EKA, they pulled up all the details for the car but the EKA code had been blanked out, they looked up one they had searched and obtained last week and that was now blanked out, they believe that Land Rover have now stopped dealers from obtaining EKA codes and advised me to contact LR customer services direct to get the code, the saga continues

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Bizarre. Think @MrGorsky got his over the phone from a dealer near Twickenham a few years back.

Maybe its a ploy by the stealers to get old more reliable range rovers off the road

hi roger see your messages , regards Mozz

Hi all, ya'll ready for the weird twist to the saga, so messaged LR direct for the EKA after the local main dealer came up empty, got an automated response stating 4/5 working days for an actual reply, checked the door switches ready for the impending code arrival, both duff, no probs connected my trusty old switch bank to take the place of the key switches even hooked up the door ajar so I could open and close without the alarm going off, in between got a message from Mozz Smith (cheers Mozz) after various phone conversations went through all the options including the skeleton code he passed on and nothing, tried everything umpteen ways to sundown just got a dozen or more alarm triggers and nearly as many key code lock out messages oh and during one attempt the super locking snapped in, I had unplugged the drivers lock motors when I fitted the switches so I could still open/close the drivers door, no way to sync with the alarm active, so through the bank holls weekend just left it with the battery off (and the batteries out of the fobs) hoping LR would get back to me. Today super duper Mozz contacted a buddy of his who came up with the EKA, WAHOO, did the 4 clicks to lock then the code, nothing, no lock movement and alarm still flashing, tried as per rave and put the code straight in, nope, 99.9% pos I had got the frig switches the right way round but what the hell, in desperation put the code in with 4 to the unlock then code, nope, put the code on it's own, nope, not a click whistle or bang, really ratted by this time, but all this time a key has been sat in the ignition not turned any where just pushed in, I jerk it out trying to decide which wall to through it at and as I shut the drivers door purely by chance I pressed the unlock button, clunk all the doors unlock and the alarm light stops flashing, press lock, unlock, lock, happy as larry, I have pressed both fob buttons probably a 100+ times over the past week, tried them each time I tried inputting codes etc and they never worked, when I put the EKA code that Mozz had sourced (4 times in different orders) the car never made a sound, no locks moved no lights flashed and nothing on the dash display, Ok one key was sat in the ignition when I did the last few code entries but the weird thing is the other fob has been sat in the kitchen with the battery out since last Friday, stick the battery in walk to the kitchen door and press the buttons and that bugger works as well, I have not got a clue as to what has transpired but she's up and running, a big thank you to all for your time, thought and input and a special thanks to Mozz Smith, next time I'm through your neck of the woods I owe you a large beer (or two ish)

Mozz is the cake monster. Not sure what his favourite is but you cannot beat a Marks & Spencer Victoria Sponge.

Might be worth spraying electrical contact cleaner in your ignition barrel, blow it out and then spray some graphite powder lube in there. Make sure the barrel is popping in and out easily with the key.

I think you can turn off the flashing of lights when entering the EKA with diagnostics although why anyone would is anyone's guess.

You cannot do EKA with a key in the ignition as far as I know.