P38 Injection Pump, Not Starting

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With the problems with this engine would it not be quicker and cheaper to drop another working low mileage lump in then you could rebuild the old lump at leisure, as if Data is right and you do all the timing stuff and its bent a valve its going to need a lot more work.
 
wish I could do this, For the amount of taxes to import things like cars/engines esp old ones, fixing it remains the best option. But also am building this at leisure since I do have Defender 110 200tdi and I did buy it very cheap, now I know why lol
 
Hello once again, after changing the timing chains and changing FIP, I still can't get the car to start. I have managed to get nanocom and here are all the pics from EDC, if I can get the insight on them.
 

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fosha said:
Hello once again, after changing the timing chains and changing FIP, I still can't get the car to start. I have managed to get nanocom and here are all the pics from EDC, if I can get the insight on them.
Click to expand...
Battery is flat. Not sure how you got that modulation figure without the engine running but it looks wrong, it should be 50% at idle with the engine temperature at 95C. Cold engine I would expect a figure of 15/20% so the FIP timing could be way out. Have you checked for loss of sync between the EDC and the BECM? Read the immobiliser code from the EDC and write it into the BECM.
 
Datatek said:
Battery is flat. Not sure how you got that modulation figure without the engine running but it looks wrong, it should be 50% at idle with the engine temperature at 95C. Cold engine I would expect a figure of 15/20% so the FIP timing could be way out. Have you checked for loss of sync between the EDC and the BECM? Read the immobiliser code from the EDC and write it into the BECM.
Click to expand...
I have checked for EMS code and it's the same on BECM, I will have to check FIP timing again
 
fosha said:
I have checked for EMS code and it's the same on BECM, I will have to check FIP timing again
Click to expand...

There's a hole in the flywheel just before the TDC one but about 20% out. Then of course you could be 180° out?

Timing using the dial guage will of course matter but it normally isn't that sensitive. If you play with the pump top that's sensitive as hell.
 
After a lots for trying we have come to a conclusions we should change the engine. Either go with low mileage M51(any advice on where to buy one) or if possible M57. What's your advice
 
fosha said:
After a lots for trying we have come to a conclusions we should change the engine. Either go with low mileage M51(any advice on where to buy one) or if possible M57. What's your advice
Click to expand...

Straight swap is easiest, although even then you need to get the year reasonably close as there are differences in the loom and the ECUs. Usually people get them out of scrapped Range Rovers or Vauxhall (Opel) Omegas. Same engine was also in the BMW, of course. Unless the FIP ends 994 you may have to swap that over and if that is the source of you problem then you're back at square one. Where you find a genuine low mileage example over 20 years since production stopped is a mystery. Turner Engineering or similar might have a rebuilt one. @stu might know where the race enthusiasts source theirs.

M57 can be made to fit but I have never done it. RangeRovers.net might have more on engine swaps. I have a vague memory of a kiwi doing it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Straight swap is easiest, although even then you need to get the year reasonably close as there are differences in the loom and the ECUs. Usually people get them out of scrapped Range Rovers or Vauxhall (Opel) Omegas. Same engine was also in the BMW, of course. Unless the FIP ends 994 you may have to swap that over and if that is the source of you problem then you're back at square one. Where you find a genuine low mileage example over 20 years since production stopped is a mystery. Turner Engineering or similar might have a rebuilt one. @stu might know where the race enthusiasts source theirs.

M57 can be made to fit but I have never done it. RangeRovers.net might have more on engine swaps. I have a vague memory of a kiwi doing it.
Click to expand...
Several people have succeeded in fitting the M57 in place of the M51 but it's not easy, apart from the electronics, the P38 cooling system is not up to dealing with the extra heat so has to be modified.
 
Another FIP pump, one ending 994 would be a lot cheaper to ship. Static timing as per RAVE using a dial guage to turn the pump towards the engine. When the cam bolt was tightened it should also have had a shim for a high mileage engine (details in RAVE again). With both those set, if the lift pump is working then it should fire, assuming the timing chains are in the right position.

To check valves you can take the cam cover off, use a compression guage adapter to fit the glow plug hole and then use a compressor to pressurise the cylinder when the valves are shut (lobes flat). If you gear hissing from exhaust or inlet valves then sonething is up but if no noise then should be OK. Mind you, I would expect compression to be down on that cylinder too. If the coolant ****es out the expansion tank the head gasket is gone or the head itself is cracked.
 
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