If the BeCM has been changed the original Land Rover quoted from chassis number will not work...
P38A P38 experts! Disabled engine 2001 Vogue. EKA doesn’t work. Key disconnected.
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If the BeCM has been changed the original Land Rover quoted from chassis number will not work...
julien2512
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Thank you,
How can I see what the Eka code is now, can a nanocom see that? Or what else to do fix this.
Suggestions to fix this welcome
So Julien, what do you know about the PO? DId they replace the BECM at some point? If you have the right EKA the car should accept it via Nano. I have use the nano several times to re-enable my 4.6 (mainly experimenting with what difference the settings make) but the conclusion is that was whatever you or the PO have enabled or disabled the 4.6 will always take the EKA code, whether it asks for it or not. I have also used the nano to restart several other people's P38s where they genuinely did have a problem. Mostly the car takes the EKA straight away, but I had one where I had to cycle the ignition on/ off several times before the EKA code was eventually accepted. Obviously if you have access to a Nano then you have time to experiment, but if it's through your local garage then that will be a PITA.
Nano won't read the EKA code (or change it) unfortunately
Nano won't read the EKA code (or change it) unfortunately
Callrova.com in UK is who we use from here in Portugal as main dealers not interested and are useless anyway check them out on their website...
julien2512
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Thank you very much Rob for your advice! I don’t know if they changed the becm. The only thing I know is that the garage tried to put in the EKA code with a registered by Land Rover with a nanocom, but that it didn’t work.
How could I fix this or how could I get the code?
Juliën
Does the Nano read the EKA or waits for you to input it and then accepts or rejects I suspect the later...we dont waste time anymore just send the lot to Callrova keys/bcem and usually instrument cluster...rickthepick is good never had a problem with his service...
julien2512
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Thank you very much, do I have to send the Becm to them?
Yes plus keys...they are good and are members on this forum along with martyuk another P38 diagnostic guru...
julien2512
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Thank you very much
Datatek
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There may be a problem with customs sending stuff from the EU to the UK.
Datatek
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With diagnostics, you need to clear the RF memory then operate the FOB and check to see if a valid code has been received.
Another trick that has worked for me is to get in the car and shut the door then lock and unlock using the pop up button in the door.
When you get the problem sorted use diagnostics to turn off the EKA function and the immobiliser, this will more or less eliminate future problems of this sort.
Another trick that has worked for me is to get in the car and shut the door then lock and unlock using the pop up button in the door.
When you get the problem sorted use diagnostics to turn off the EKA function and the immobiliser, this will more or less eliminate future problems of this sort.
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Although I do understand that it depends IF your BeCM is "LOCKED" or "UNLOCKED", with an unlocked BeCM at some software levels you can see and edit the EKA code with a Nanocom.
I have set mine to a very easy number to remember and to enter.
Similarly, you can turn off the security completely to have a car that works off the key only; which is what I did for a chap that lives near me that had "Engine Disabled".
Don't give up!
I have set mine to a very easy number to remember and to enter.
Similarly, you can turn off the security completely to have a car that works off the key only; which is what I did for a chap that lives near me that had "Engine Disabled".
Don't give up!
mozz smith
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Hi Julien , OK LETS SEE I I CAN HELP ??? BUT NEED INFO OFF YOU 1ST . CALLROVA "RICK" IS THE BEST IN UK IF YOU NEED TO REFURB AND RESET B.E.C.M. . YOU MAY NOT NEED THIS DOING DEPENDING ON THE INFO YOU TELL ME, SO NIX SLAFFEN AND CALL ME , IVE PM YOU MY NUMBER, MOZZ
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@mozz smith is the king of getting these things going. If playing with the EKA remember to open the door after 2 attempts to reset the attenpt count. Otherwise it will start timing you out. You need 3 working microswitches for EKA and key syncing.
julien2512
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Thanks bro’s, car still doesn’t do anything, will respond tomorrow
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If the garage has a Nanocom, first step is to make sure EKA is enabled. Also enable the Alarm Noise & Alarm Lights = Hazards options. That way you get visual indication when entering the EKA. (Then try entering EKA via Nanocom again)
Next either you or your garage need to check the door latch microswitches are working. Procedure for this is in the Technical Archive at top of this forum.
(If latches are broken then EKA using the key in door will never work.)
These Nanocom settings are in the BECM menus.
Next either you or your garage need to check the door latch microswitches are working. Procedure for this is in the Technical Archive at top of this forum.
(If latches are broken then EKA using the key in door will never work.)
These Nanocom settings are in the BECM menus.
Datatek
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If the car is asking for EKA, the function cannot be disabled
julien2512
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@mozz smith @Datatek @DanClarke @Grrrrrr
Fellow Range Rover fans, the car is still broken in the other city where it failed, nobody knows ti fix it here! I tried the EKA code so many times, it doesn’t work! Aglso when I put in the EKA code, last week the alarm was ringing and doorlights were blinking, that’s away now. Is that good? The battery is not disconnected. When I put on the ignition, it says press remote or enter keycode, tried both so many times, also tried to make contact between the becm and the remote by putting the key in the lock and pressing remote, but nothing works.
I’m tired of it. Had the car for 2 days for my business and to sleep in it and then this.
Who could fix this would be awesome as **** haha
Fellow Range Rover fans, the car is still broken in the other city where it failed, nobody knows ti fix it here! I tried the EKA code so many times, it doesn’t work! Aglso when I put in the EKA code, last week the alarm was ringing and doorlights were blinking, that’s away now. Is that good? The battery is not disconnected. When I put on the ignition, it says press remote or enter keycode, tried both so many times, also tried to make contact between the becm and the remote by putting the key in the lock and pressing remote, but nothing works.
I’m tired of it. Had the car for 2 days for my business and to sleep in it and then this.
Who could fix this would be awesome as **** haha
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There are 3 microswitches in the bottom of the drivers door lock actuator mechanism. If one of these fails you can only unlock the BECM with diagnostics. Marty did some lock test checks on here somewhere. Always open the door after 2 attempts to reset the count. Do it more and it starts to time out until after 9 attempts your only option is to send it to Rick-the-Pick at Callrova. Rick recommends opening the window and using the sill button at the same time as you use the key.
Has anyone unplugged the RF receiver under the rear parcel shelf? People often do this to try to get around the RF interference issue but it will stop the remote from working unless you have the key right next to the rear quarerlight window where the RF aerial is. A long shot but if it is RF interference that caused the issue and it is still there then towing the car (remember to put in fuse 11 first) to where there are no security cameras or weather statios, wireless doorbells or anything else on 433MHz and then plugging it back in might help. Of course, the fob has to be working but you should see the LED on the fob light up when you press the button.
It may be that if the lock tests are passed and the EKA isn't accepted by door or diagnostics then someone has swapped the BECM at some stage and not made a note of the new code. The only way I know how to read that is with a special module on the Faultmate from BBS. Marty can do it but he's gone to NZ and @Rick-the-Pick in Brighton can do it as his business specialises in fixing BECMs.
I doubt the key can be resynced while it is asking for the EKA. Sometimes using the other key is required first or clearing the RF memory with a Nanocomnor similar. To sync it first unlock with the key, then hold the key next to the RF aerial and press lock and very quickly get the key back in the lock and turn to lock. Then key back to the RF aerial and press unlock before very quickly getting the key back in and turning to unlock. This may need to be repeated several times. If you're sure the RF aerial is fine then leave the key in the lock. Again, it needs working microswitches to work so that has to be checked before anything else.
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Can't add much more to what @Grrrrrr has said really.
My BeCM is "unlocked" and so I can do a lot with my Nanocom.
If the BeCM is "Locked" then you cannot do so much.
I would get it towed home and pull the BeCM out and send it to Calrova @Rick-the-Pick he can usually resolve the issue and his prices are very reasonable.
My BeCM is "unlocked" and so I can do a lot with my Nanocom.
If the BeCM is "Locked" then you cannot do so much.
I would get it towed home and pull the BeCM out and send it to Calrova @Rick-the-Pick he can usually resolve the issue and his prices are very reasonable.
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