P38 EAS - Brass Compression Fitting Mod

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Josh Wiggill

Member
Posts
38
Location
Hereford
Hi guys,

I have persistent sagging issue with my EAS. Block rebuilt no leaking from the bags themselves but seem to drop on 3/4 corners. I’ve come across a mod were they replace the collets for brass compression fittings. This requires some drilling and tapping of the VB but seems to achieve zero leaks and holds up over time. Is there anyone in the UK that has done this, and better still would be willing to do this for a fee. I would give it ago but I just don’t have the equipment to do it.

Cheers
 
Hi guys,

I have persistent sagging issue with my EAS. Block rebuilt no leaking from the bags themselves but seem to drop on 3/4 corners. I’ve come across a mod were they replace the collets for brass compression fittings. This requires some drilling and tapping of the VB but seems to achieve zero leaks and holds up over time. Is there anyone in the UK that has done this, and better still would be willing to do this for a fee. I would give it ago but I just don’t have the equipment to do it.

Cheers
I have an as new valve block for sale if you need one, save yourself the hassle and tears. Up to you but drilling into a valve block does not always end well. Any swarf in the ports and you will have major leaks on the solenoids and return valves.
 
Hi guys,

I have persistent sagging issue with my EAS. Block rebuilt no leaking from the bags themselves but seem to drop on 3/4 corners. I’ve come across a mod were they replace the collets for brass compression fittings. This requires some drilling and tapping of the VB but seems to achieve zero leaks and holds up over time. Is there anyone in the UK that has done this, and better still would be willing to do this for a fee. I would give it ago but I just don’t have the equipment to do it.

Cheers
The standard method should seal the pipes perfectly well if the pipe ends are in good condition. You can replace the O rings.
The fittings are standard as used on air powered equipment and normally give no trouble, are you sure it's the pipes at the valve block leaking?
 
I have an as new valve block for sale if you need one, save yourself the hassle and tears. Up to you but drilling into a valve block does not always end well. Any swarf in the ports and you will have major leaks on the solenoids and return valves.
How much are you looking for your valve block. I would like to avoid drilling into it if possible but it seems like a definite way, if all swarf is removed, to stop any further leaks
 
How much are you looking for your valve block. I would like to avoid drilling into it if possible but it seems like a definite way, if all swarf is removed, to stop any further leaks
You can drill if you want but if there are stem or base leaks on any of the solenoids then drilling it will not stop them. Give it a go you may get lucky.
I am looking for £140 for the v-block that is posted as well.
Kurt
 
The standard method should seal the pipes perfectly well if the pipe ends are in good condition. You can replace the O rings.
The fittings are standard as used on air powered equipment and normally give no trouble, are you sure it's the pipes at the valve block leaking?
I have gone round all bags and sprayed with soapy water no leaks from there, it is definitely from the valve block as I can see bubbles from the soapy water
 
I have gone round all bags and sprayed with soapy water no leaks from there, it is definitely from the valve block as I can see bubbles from the soapy water
So what is the state of the pipes where they go into the block? Have they been cut back so the raised collar prevents then going fully in?
If the pipe ends are not scored and they have not been cut back, get a set of new O rings.
If the pipes have been cut back you have a problem that compression fittings would not solve, you will have to cut back beyond the raised collar and fit couplers and a new short length of pipe.
 
So what is the state of the pipes where they go into the block? Have they been cut back so the raised collar prevents then going fully in?
If the pipe ends are not scored and they have not been cut back, get a set of new O rings.
If the pipes have been cut back you have a problem that compression fittings would not solve, you will have to cut back beyond the raised collar and fit couplers and a new short length of pipe.
The ends of the pipes were pretty scratched up so I picked up some new pipe and couplers today and have just replaced them and again within 15 minuets she’s down to the bump stops almost on the RR, RL & FR bags. None of them are leaking, there’s no leaks from the collets no and yet she’s still dropping I don’t understand
 
If there's no leaks on the airbags or the collets on the block, where else on the valve block can you see leaks ? Sounds like the block needs a refurb, or if you cannot do it, get one from Kurt.
 
The ends of the pipes were pretty scratched up so I picked up some new pipe and couplers today and have just replaced them and again within 15 minuets she’s down to the bump stops almost on the RR, RL & FR bags. None of them are leaking, there’s no leaks from the collets no and yet she’s still dropping I don’t understand
How old are the airbags? It can only go down like that if there are leaks.
To ensure it's not the ECU playing tricks, remove the EAS relay from under the passenger seat and see which corners still go down.
 
If there's no leaks on the airbags or the collets on the block, where else on the valve block can you see leaks ? Sounds like the block needs a refurb, or if you cannot do it, get one from Kurt.
He claims the valve block has been re-built so there is a good possibility that there are leaking valves, but the OP also said there were leaks at the collets so I have followed that path.
 
If there's no leaks on the airbags or the collets on the block, where else on the valve block can you see leaks ? Sounds like the block needs a refurb, or if you cannot do it, get one from Kurt.
Hi there,

I’ve returned the block this weekend. O-Rings sourced from 4x4airseals. Annoyingly I order the kit without the diaphragm but I have ordered this and it should be here tomorrow. Surely if that was the issue all 4 bags would deflate instead of just 3?
 
How old are the airbags? It can only go down like that if there are leaks.
To ensure it's not the ECU playing tricks, remove the EAS relay from under the passenger seat and see which corners still go down.
I took the relay out this weekend and it’s the rear left and right and the front right that are deflating. Front right stays up perfectly. Unsure on how old the bags are - they are continental bags if that helps? I’ve sprayed them in off-road and normal height and I can’t see any bubbles coming from them anyway. The collets on the bags aren’t leaking either
 
I took the relay out this weekend and it’s the rear left and right and the front right that are deflating. Front right stays up perfectly. Unsure on how old the bags are - they are continental bags if that helps? I’ve sprayed them in off-road and normal height and I can’t see any bubbles coming from them anyway. The collets on the bags aren’t leaking either
The bags leak where they fold under, often it's hard to see where the are leaking. In off road height can you see if the rubber is perished at all?
 
Hi there,

I’ve returned the block this weekend. O-Rings sourced from 4x4airseals. Annoyingly I order the kit without the diaphragm but I have ordered this and it should be here tomorrow. Surely if that was the issue all 4 bags would deflate instead of just 3?
What colour were your replacement O rings for the valve block?
 
The bags leak where they fold under, often it's hard to see where the are leaking. In off road height can you see if the rubber is perished at all?
These are the body and basses of the bag…rears in the first 4 pictures then the fronts
 

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