P38 Cranking

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I've had mine say it a couple of times, if press the button when in access mode, it'll say manual mode! Not always... It works well going into the Bordeaux underground parking. It'll crawl along in access mode upto a certain speed before it lifts.
 
Mark Piercy said:
I've had mine say it a couple of times, if press the button when in access mode, it'll say manual mode! Not always... It works well going into the Bordeaux underground parking. It'll crawl along in access mode upto a certain speed before it lifts.
Click to expand...
I go the other way, I put it up to wading height, it then triggers access to the high vehicle parking area:D
 
EAS manual will only show up on the dash when in access mode (from memory if you leave it locked in access mode when shutting down, it will show it when powering up again so you can use it to crawl around parking garages).
The other time you'll see it is if the vehicle is actually running on coil springs and has had the EAS ECU bypassed so it doesn't keep bleeping and throwing up faults.

As Grrrrr mentions - myself and a fellow mate/P38 owner have managed to make an RF filter which does a similar job to the expensive LR 3rd gen/green dot receiver, but at a fraction of the price. More information can be found on my website: www.p38webshop.co.uk Though they are out of stock at the moment as we have sold all of the last batch and trying to find some time to assemble and test some more!
 
Hi
But what does that mean access mode?
gordan said:
raised ribs -
Click to expand...

martyuk said:
EAS manual will only show up on the dash when in access mode (from memory if you leave it locked in access mode when shutting down, it will show it when powering up again so you can use it to crawl around parking garages).
The other time you'll see it is if the vehicle is actually running on coil springs and has had the EAS ECU bypassed so it doesn't keep bleeping and throwing up faults.

As Grrrrr mentions - myself and a fellow mate/P38 owner have managed to make an RF filter which does a similar job to the expensive LR 3rd gen/green dot receiver, but at a fraction of the price. More information can be found on my website: www.p38webshop.co.uk Though they are out of stock at the moment as we have sold all of the last batch and trying to find some time to assemble and test some more!
Click to expand...
 
Hi my friends
Again a lot of questions and I hope you can help me to understand :
- I have changed the injector no. 4, I bought it use from P38 2.5 diesel, 2000 model, is that important to be same injector no.? mine is STC4217, but the other one, not the same code no.
- The second question again, what is the reason that when I start driving it is too slow even if I press the pedal to that max.? but after 3 seconds it drives fast?
- If I change the FIP, which I bought one-second hand also from the same model, does it need to reprogram on computer or nanocom or other?
- Still not understand why it turnes off when I change the gear from P to R or from N to D.

Thank you a lot
 
williamadam said:
Hi my friends
Again a lot of questions and I hope you can help me to understand :
- I have changed the injector no. 4, I bought it use from P38 2.5 diesel, 2000 model, is that important to be same injector no.? mine is STC4217, but the other one, not the same code no.
- The second question again, what is the reason that when I start driving it is too slow even if I press the pedal to that max.? but after 3 seconds it drives fast?
- If I change the FIP, which I bought one-second hand also from the same model, does it need to reprogram on computer or nanocom or other?
- Still not understand why it turnes off when I change the gear from P to R or from N to D.

Thank you a lot
Click to expand...
No programming for the FIP, but it does need the static timing doing for which you need the special tools.
 
williamadam said:
Hi my friends
Again a lot of questions and I hope you can help me to understand :
- I have changed the injector no. 4, I bought it use from P38 2.5 diesel, 2000 model, is that important to be same injector no.? mine is STC4217, but the other one, not the same code no.
- The second question again, what is the reason that when I start driving it is too slow even if I press the pedal to that max.? but after 3 seconds it drives fast?
- If I change the FIP, which I bought one-second hand also from the same model, does it need to reprogram on computer or nanocom or other?
- Still not understand why it turnes off when I change the gear from P to R or from N to D.

Thank you a lot
Click to expand...

Don't know about #4 part number. @wammers would though.

Turbo won't cut in until maybe 1750 rpm so it will be slow to pick up until then. After 2000 rpm it should start shifting though.

It shouldn't turn off when changing gear. That is seriously weird!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Don't know about #4 part number. @wammers would though.

Turbo won't cut in until maybe 1750 rpm so it will be slow to pick up until then. After 2000 rpm it should start shifting though.

It shouldn't turn off when changing gear. That is seriously weird!
Click to expand...
If the FIP does not adjust for the load increase when going from neutral to in gear, then it may stall. It could also be possible that the idle speed is too low.
 
The injector 4 is same, perhaps slightly higher crack pressure on later one, BUT the connector is different but could be adapted (ideally not as the wires get brittle with age/heat)
If FIP seriously is on its way out can cut out when stationary just turning the wheels so maybe similar on gear change?
 
RangeRoller dt said:
The injector 4 is same, perhaps slightly higher crack pressure on later one, BUT the connector is different but could be adapted (ideally not as the wires get brittle with age/heat)
If FIP seriously is on its way out can cut out when stationary just turning the wheels so maybe similar on gear change?
Click to expand...

Surely if the crack pressure was higher it would have delayed injection and that would mess with the modulation as it would try to advance it but for 5 cylinders it would be too far advanced?
 
RangeRoller dt said:
The injector 4 is same, perhaps slightly higher crack pressure on later one, BUT the connector is different but could be adapted (ideally not as the wires get brittle with age/heat)
If FIP seriously is on its way out can cut out when stationary just turning the wheels so maybe similar on gear change?
Click to expand...
I have fitted a #4 injector from my pre EGR 95 scrapper to my post EGR 99, it works fine. Sorting the connector is easy.
 
What are the tools should I have to static timing? and what do you mean with Idle too low? how I fix it
Grrrrrr said:
Don't know about #4 part number. @wammers would though.

Turbo won't cut in until maybe 1750 rpm so it will be slow to pick up until then. After 2000 rpm it should start shifting though.

It shouldn't turn off when changing gear. That is seriously weird!
Click to expand...

Datatek said:
If the FIP does not adjust for the load increase when going from neutral to in gear, then it may stall. It could also be possible that the idle speed is too low.
Click to expand...
?
 
For static timing you need an adapter to fit the back of the FIP and a dial guage. Ideally you'd also have a flywheel locking pin and an open socket to slacken off the high pressure fuel lines. Instructions are in RAVE. I guess it would rule out one possibility.

Idle speed. Need Nanocom or decent diagnostics for that. It should never be touched but sometimes people change the value from 128 to 129 or 130 to mask issues.
 
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