Thanks mate I dread the day I have to change clutch mineDual mass flywheel, manual only.
P38 Cold Idle Issue
- Thread starter Nialox
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Thanks mate I dread the day I have to change clutch mine
It’s not too bad a job. Possible with you three mates and some jacks.
Only reason I got a new engine swapped in with the clutch flywheel unit was because my Timing chains were gone and It was more convenient to leave the car at the garage instead of hauling the block 200miles home!
I’d do it myself now. And may still do. But I’m inclined to try and sort a deal with the garage first.
just got to weigh up cost vs / value of vehicle, for me it’s starting to not be worth it
See how you get on, mine is 1995 2.5 manual same as yours at 96 manual? Done chains etc but think manuals are quite rare now and these cars generally are going up in value?
I am in same position but there is something about these cars. I still got to repair rotten door cills, electrics and head lining. Don't lose faith keep going.
My dad bought his p38 4.6 was really rough when he get it spent about £2k but looks completely different now worth more.
PS - I have a blue PSI motorsport power box which seems to be a common one. I took it out to go back to standard. Let me know interested in it.
What’s that for the DMF?
I agree a nice one is up in value. Mines solid chassis wise and interior. But the body’s fairly rough. If yours is the blue one it looks pretty nice.
how much would you want for the box?
Of the DMF is that? I believe it’s just a replacement job, or as Datatek stated get a solid one made
Yes
yeah they are crazy expensive!
brianp38dse
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Any racing place can knock one out for you but they will need the old one to get the ring-gear off it. Personally I would stick with the DMF. They were made by LUK but I know they haven't had any in years. They sold the last of theirs to Eurocarparts.
Talk to the people who did it and see what they say. As long as people are talking there is room to negotiate. A 100k DMF might have had 50k left in it or 0k, it is a gamble. Rattle might be release bearing or something like that. For the price I would have played safe and put all new clutch parts in, including bushes on the clutch fork lever.
Edit. Just seen you are in Yorkshire. Clutchfix are up there. Very friendly and know the M51 and the P38. Worth a chat if you need something knocking up.
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Dual mass fly wheels are a complete waste of time. The worst invention of the last 100 years by far. Whomsoever thought of them should be put against a wall and shot.
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I agree my good man and since the gearboxes on modern cars are made of chineesium since the mid 2000's, the dmf had to be designed to stop shaking the crap out of them too soon. Economic fabrication.
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I agree my good man and since the gearboxes on modern cars are made of chineesium since the mid 2000's, the dmf had to be designed to stop shaking the crap out of them too soon. Economic fabrication.
DMF are designed to reduce pressure on the gearbox internals at low engine speeds in high gears. Basically to reduce emission output in slow moving traffic.
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Well put! Oh your so correctDMF are designed to reduce pressure on the gearbox internals at low engine speeds in high gears. Basically to reduce emission output in slow moving traffic.
More update and questions after having run the car for 1000miles.
so there’s no vibration or rattle at idle. Or when pulling away from stationary
However if pulling away rolling I can get a shake or heavy vibration. If I don’t load up the clutch straight away
This also happens for example when I’m in a slightly higher gear (3rd gear slowly moving at 20mph) but not under significant load I get a bad vibration. Baring in mind this is on the flat around 1600 rpm which I don’t think is silly
Or when rolling downhill and feathering then throttle.
so to me it seems like a fairly heavy rattle / vibration when not under load and engine rpm and drive train speed aren’t synced?
we thinking DMf or possibly propshafts?
it definitely feels to be the front half of the car
so there’s no vibration or rattle at idle. Or when pulling away from stationary
However if pulling away rolling I can get a shake or heavy vibration. If I don’t load up the clutch straight away
This also happens for example when I’m in a slightly higher gear (3rd gear slowly moving at 20mph) but not under significant load I get a bad vibration. Baring in mind this is on the flat around 1600 rpm which I don’t think is silly
Or when rolling downhill and feathering then throttle.
so to me it seems like a fairly heavy rattle / vibration when not under load and engine rpm and drive train speed aren’t synced?
we thinking DMf or possibly propshafts?
it definitely feels to be the front half of the car
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Have you tried it rolling along in neutral? Also high range and low range? Related to engine speed or road speed or transmission speed?
no rattle or noise rolling along in neutral.
It’s on the road. The prime example is when you are in a slightly high gear being light on the peddle
Not in low range. I’ve only used low twice to get out of a field.
It’s almost like a shake. It shakes the whole car
It seems to be whenever you are one gear up
28-30mph in 4th for example.
With not much throttle action
whenever it’s under load from the engine it seems okay although I physically cannot go under 30 in 4th.
I don’t usually drive this way. But it’s a red flag and makes me think it shouldn’t happen.
I prefer to drive slightly higher in the rev range with less throttle.
I’m not a high gear chugger smashing down on the pedal at low rpm
