P38 brake acumalator falure

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Grrrrrr said:
Island are great until you need to send something back. I used them for ages with no issues and then one day they sent through an absolutely f*cked part. I photographed on unpacking and sent it back. Refused to refund my money and it took the threat of legal action before they refunded it. No communication. That was the worst part. If they'd said they had problems and would get back to me or whatever it would have been bearable. I don't deal with people like that so they're scratched.
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Oh dear, I know what you mean though, some people don't seem to care. To be honest I always ask to be put through to someone higher up the ladder to manager level. You generally get a result then, as they don't like the hassle!
Anyway, my P38 has turned into a bit more of a problem than I thought. I don't think that it the accumulator after all that. I have a rear brake pipe gone on top of the chassis on the O/S which I bet is going to be a pic to change!
 
Gaz5535 said:
Oh dear, I know what you mean though, some people don't seem to care. To be honest I always ask to be put through to someone higher up the ladder to manager level. You generally get a result then, as they don't like the hassle!
Anyway, my P38 has turned into a bit more of a problem than I thought. I don't think that it the accumulator after all that. I have a rear brake pipe gone on top of the chassis on the O/S which I bet is going to be a pic to change!
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It is remove the tank and split the pipe and join in the middle. I did mine when i had the tank out to do the lift pump.
 
Ok, thanks. You didn't do the old trick of cutting 3 sided flap out of the floor then?
That saves a lot of time changing the tank pump!
 
Gaz5535 said:
Ok, thanks. You didn't do the old trick of cutting 3 sided flap out of the floor then?
That saves a lot of time changing the tank pump!
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The danger with that is that the brake pipes run behind the tank on the newer models (post '97?) and you can miss the fact the brake pipes are badly corroded and then ... hold on. Is there where I came in?
 
wammers said:
No i am a mechanic not a butcher.:D:D
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Meow, neither am I...I have got about 80 vehicles of one description or another, & I am running out of life to fix everything by the book!
 

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Gaz5535 said:
Meow, neither am I...I have got about 80 vehicles of one description or another, & I am running out of life to fix everything by the book!
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By the way I did put some frendly looking emogies with that post, but they seem to have disappeared? That was not supposed be as stern a reply as it looks! :)
 
Grrrrrr said:
The danger with that is that the brake pipes run behind the tank on the newer models (post '97?) and you can miss the fact the brake pipes are badly corroded and then ... hold on. Is there where I came in?
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Is there just the one pipe going to the back axle? As what I was thinking of replacing the whole length in cnickel cooper.
 
Gaz5535 said:
Meow, neither am I...I have got about 80 vehicles of one description or another, & I am running out of life to fix everything by the book!
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Yes i am fully aware of the cut and shut method. But if you need to change the lift pump on later cars with the brake pipe running across the back, it pays to remove the tank. It is not a particularly hard job, with it out, you can if needed replace the brake pipe across the back with comparative ease. With the tank in you need to be a gynecologist. Or at least be able to paper your hall way through the letter box.
 
Gaz5535 said:
Is there just the one pipe going to the back axle? As what I was thinking of replacing the whole length in cnickel cooper.
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On later cars there are two pipes that go to the rear, both run down the O/S of the car along the inner chassis. One goes to the O/S rear brake the other one goes along the chassis then up and over across inside a channel clipped to the body, Then forwards along the chassis top to the N/S rear brake. Good luck doing the whole length to the N/S in one without removing the tank.
 
wammers said:
On later cars there are two pipes that go to the rear, both run down the O/S of the car along the inner chassis. One goes to the O/S rear brake the other one goes along the chassis then up and over across inside a channel clipped to the body, Then forwards along the chassis top to the N/S rear brake. Good luck doing the whole length to the N/S in one without removing the tank.
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do not all p38s have abs?
 
jamesmartin said:
do not all p38s have abs?
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Yes but some poverty models don't have TC. All have two pipes going to the rear James but early models had pipes running across the axle. Later models as described earlier. Think they were re routed when twin tail pipes started to be fitted.
 
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Ok, so you have made it clear that I have to take the tank out. What sort of job is that? As obviously it must be a bit of a mare, for people to develop the flap method of changing the pump.
 
Gaz5535 said:
Ok, so you have made it clear that I have to take the tank out. What sort of job is that? As obviously it must be a bit of a mare, for people to develop the flap method of changing the pump.
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If you want to service the brake pipe it would make sense. Removing tank is a steady job if given some thought. Running until the low fuel lamp comes on is a good move before removal.
 
Gaz5535 said:
Ok, so you have made it clear that I have to take the tank out. What sort of job is that? As obviously it must be a bit of a mare, for people to develop the flap method of changing the pump.
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Not bad at all. Most of my time was draining the fuel because as luck had it my pump went on a nearly full tank. The rubber hose that joins to the filler neck is probably worth replacing. That way just cut the f*cker and then get the scraps off afterwards when you've got room to see what you're doing. When emptyish the tank is very light. Give yourself a day for unforeseen issues but you'll probably be done in an afternoon.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yes. Beware cheapo stuff off eBay and Amazon. Make sure it has the BS stamp and is of the right thickness.
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I generally buy mine from a local truck parts factor company, where I buy a lot of stuff for my trucks. Which has been of good quality up till now!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Not bad at all. Most of my time was draining the fuel because as luck had it my pump went on a nearly full tank. The rubber hose that joins to the filler neck is probably worth replacing. That way just
cut the f*cker and then get the scraps off afterwards when you've got room to see what you're doing. When emptyish the tank is very light. Give yourself a day for unforeseen issues but you'll probably be done in an afternoon.
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Ok, thanks for the info. After that statement you must agree that I already have a head start with being able to remove the pump, & then pump it out with a high flow rate pump. & I am not wishing to appear smug :)
 
wammers said:
If you want to service the brake pipe it would make sense. Removing tank is a steady job if given some thought. Running until the low fuel lamp comes on is a good move before removal.
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Ok, I here what you are saying. But I can't run it anywhere as I have got no brakes. Unless as you suggested it has the other one as a dual curcut? The other tiff that worries me, is that the brake pump is running all the time now, if you do think that it would be able to run it up the farm. (Slow & gentle I might add)
 
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