P38 2.5DSE Immobilisation issue

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tomcat59alan said:
You shouldn't need to remove the wire just move the rubber cover and see if you have 12v if you do and it's not clicking then I would suggest it's fecked.
Click to expand...

Ok, will do after work tomorrow, i hope its fecked so i can order a new one and fix this issue, but i really am curious about the fault code aswell, there are 0 information about it online.
And its really weird that the stop solenoid would just quit working after its parked at home.
 
synchro said:
I manually press the button on the nanocom for stop solenoid, i guess its not making any sound but anyhow, I try to start the car without pressing the stop solenoid button, not starting just cranking.
Then i press the button on the nanocom, still the same thing, nothing happends. Am i wrong in this, or should the stop solenoid open when there is power and it stays close when theres no power?

Could this possibly be just a dead stop solenoid? in that case im ripping it out so hard tomorrow that i will damage the engine mounts all the way to the moon.
I also guess that if i put my ignition on, remove wire to stop solenoid and check it wiht a multimiter it shoulds say 12volt right?

Or am i walking into a different continent now? Is the fault code the reason for my "litterually, immobilisation"
Click to expand...

Yes, exactly what I am wondering. Yours won't pump while cranking, only while the glows are on.

I guess you could email Black-Box Solutions or check their forum and ask what the fault means. If I get my PC running I will check the Nanocom manuals I have.

I think your suspicion is correct and that fault code is stopping fuel at the FIP. Wammers would have known but unfortunately he's no longer with us.

I guess as a last resort you could check in RAVE for the voltage and connector and apply +V (or earth connection as required) to get the stop solenoid open but it won't clear the fault ... Unless the fault means the stop solenoid is toast.
 
Just a thought: how does it know the key is in the ignition? RAVE says it immobilises the car if the key is left in the ignition - passive immobilisation which I think you switched off, now I think about it. I was going to suggest cleaning the lock barrel with electrical contact cleaners, blowing out and sone graphite lube but I doubt this is it now I type it.

RAVE also says the BECM continually transmits the EMS code at 144ms intervals on cars 1996 onwards. How the hell you check that I don't know. @Datatek might.
 
:)
Grrrrrr said:
Just a thought: how does it know the key is in the ignition? RAVE says it immobilises the car if the key is left in the ignition - passive immobilisation which I think you switched off, now I think about it. I was going to suggest cleaning the lock barrel with electrical contact cleaners, blowing out and sone graphite lube but I doubt this is it now I type it.

RAVE also says the BECM continually transmits the EMS code at 144ms intervals on cars 1996 onwards. How the hell you check that I don't know. @Datatek might.
Click to expand...

both my keys have none battery and if i want one of them working i need to fix thr key, its lost the battery place assembly on the cap.

but if im not wrong there is this coil thingy around the ignition which recognises the key i dunno.

uhm yeah and by the way i took on immobilisation just for fun and it says engine disabled when i turn the key, but my p38 has that push to start button aswell, that will make it crank but not start. Ive uses the key before to start and it works usually 9 out of 10 times. Ive tried to start car with both keys, not working.

But anyhow the engine disabled message did not dissapear by using the EKA inside the nanocom. (Note, this is when turning key to start) And when i press disarm i hear 1 click from becm, tries to turn key and becm clicks again and immobilises i guess.

Now, i was so ****ed i didnt exit the car after i enabled the eka and imob in nanocom but perhaps i should try to lock it and open it and then start or something. I’ve got no darn clues :confused:

Thanks by the way to you all trying to help me, i appriciate it :) every suggestion will be much appriciated, even pouring magma on the hood or blasting it with TNT.
 
synchro said:
do i need the fob bit other than to just unlock and lock remotely tho?
Click to expand...

When you unlock with the fob it turns of the immobilizer as well as unlocking all the doors, if you have existing key with fobs get the fobs fixed,
post a picture of what you have key wise
 
synchro said:
do i need the fob bit other than to just unlock and lock remotely tho?
Click to expand...

These cars don't seem to like just the key-blade.

The coil around the ignition is only on later models. Don't think yours has it. Would need to check RAVE. It might be worth a message to MrSporty. There is a transponder chip in later fobs but again I am not sure if it is in yours. With no transponder I could see you having issues.
 
But previous owner has ran it without battery in the fob for well over half a year, and me, myself a month. woouldnt it be weird that its the keys fault? Anyhow, i though the aftermounted starter button was a fix to the key issues?

Anyhow!!!!!!! I tok of the intake today, (because the fuel solenoid was to hard to reach for me) and when i got the solenoid out i took a wire from the + wrapped it around the solenoid and slammed it on the minus, low and behold the solenoid works.

Now this is whats interesting::::: I removed the plunger inside the solenoid right?? and wollah!!!! Car still didnt start :confused:

I still have that stupid Engine immobilisation link fault....
I had mounted a hotfix for the hotstart issue for 2 weeks ago, and it has worked solid, but this is not the issue is it? how could it anyhow... The maxi fuse on glow plug is fine.
I've checked the wires of the hotfix kit and their all nicely connected and no irring.

What can i possibly do?

Im not gonna lie, i did buy the car to start wrenching about, which is fine, but cmon hitting me with a fault code nobody has ever written about on the interwebs? :confused:

I am again not going to lie, money is restricting me from eliminating faults, for example buying a fob rep kit (even tho i really want it) I don't get my salary before 20.8.

*back to topic*

I've enabled the immob + eka in nanocom, and whenever i turn the key, yes the engine is disabled, i disarm it in nano i hear a click of disarming, i try to turn the key and it arms itself again.

(It's not bcus i've taken out the plug in the alarm siren is it?) Note, theres no fault code on this...

Anyhow, i wish everyone on here a pleasent week-end.
 
The sad thing is that i was eager to start the car when i took out the solenoid plunger and i were 99.9999999999999999999999% sure it would start, so this really hit me low.
Its just weird that- The car gets air (quite obvious i'd say??), it gets diesel and plugs should be like 50/50 neh jeh, anyhow i've read glow plugs dosnt really matter when its hot outside so.

I am determined to not hand it over to a workshop either, i bought it as a car to wrench about on, but this seems to not be fixable by a wrench :eek:
My nanocom reaches every ecu onboard.
ive gotten recomendation about the security/immobiliser cable maybe has irred, but i need help locating this wire, anyone here who can locate it for me so i can fully check it out? :)

Thanks again best folks :cool:
 
synchro said:
The sad thing is that i was eager to start the car when i took out the solenoid plunger and i were 99.9999999999999999999999% sure it would start, so this really hit me low.
Its just weird that- The car gets air (quite obvious i'd say??), it gets diesel and plugs should be like 50/50 neh jeh, anyhow i've read glow plugs dosnt really matter when its hot outside so.

I am determined to not hand it over to a workshop either, i bought it as a car to wrench about on, but this seems to not be fixable by a wrench :eek:
My nanocom reaches every ecu onboard.
ive gotten recomendation about the security/immobiliser cable maybe has irred, but i need help locating this wire, anyone here who can locate it for me so i can fully check it out? :)

Thanks again best folks :cool:
Click to expand...
Do not run the car without the internal plunger in the stop solenoid!!! You won't be able to stop the engine.i think you will find you need at least 3 working glow plugs to start the engine.
 
Welp, it didnt run anyways :confused: Is it not fine to test it, like i was not gonna drive it, and i had choke options to "kill" the engine.
I know the stop solenoid is a vital part
 
synchro said:
But previous owner has ran it without battery in the fob for well over half a year, and me, myself a month. woouldnt it be weird that its the keys fault? Anyhow, i though the aftermounted starter button was a fix to the key issues?

Anyhow!!!!!!! I tok of the intake today, (because the fuel solenoid was to hard to reach for me) and when i got the solenoid out i took a wire from the + wrapped it around the solenoid and slammed it on the minus, low and behold the solenoid works.

Now this is whats interesting::::: I removed the plunger inside the solenoid right?? and wollah!!!! Car still didnt start :confused:

I still have that stupid Engine immobilisation link fault....
I had mounted a hotfix for the hotstart issue for 2 weeks ago, and it has worked solid, but this is not the issue is it? how could it anyhow... The maxi fuse on glow plug is fine.
I've checked the wires of the hotfix kit and their all nicely connected and no irring.

What can i possibly do?

Im not gonna lie, i did buy the car to start wrenching about, which is fine, but cmon hitting me with a fault code nobody has ever written about on the interwebs? :confused:

I am again not going to lie, money is restricting me from eliminating faults, for example buying a fob rep kit (even tho i really want it) I don't get my salary before 20.8.

*back to topic*

I've enabled the immob + eka in nanocom, and whenever i turn the key, yes the engine is disabled, i disarm it in nano i hear a click of disarming, i try to turn the key and it arms itself again.

(It's not bcus i've taken out the plug in the alarm siren is it?) Note, theres no fault code on this...

Anyhow, i wish everyone on here a pleasent week-end.
Click to expand...

Personally I would put everything as stock as it can be to eliminate as many variables as possible. If the key does have the little transponder chip and that chip has shifted yhen it could have issues but I suspect yours is too old.
 
Okay soooooooooooo, how do i even check the wires from becm which goes tru to the engine? i mean, their all insulated, aNd bound together.
i have a coolant leak from the orings by the matrix, but yea.. under the carpet its moist but i beieve this has gone on for over a year, but theres not rust on the floor. (i owned the car for 1 month, and ive ordered o-rings)

Someone recomended me to check the immobilisation wire / security wire. Does anyone know how they look like/where they go from-to?

cheers. I did spill some coolant on top of the engine multiplug by the fuse box but that was well over a week before the issue. ( i removed the coolant reservoar to get better reach when taking a wire from battery to amplifier for my subwoofer in the trunk. and it accidentaly flowed out of the o verflow when i moved it around.
 
Guys, i have news. I found this dirty little fella.
It does not look burnt/bad at the yellow connector end in the fusebox. (engine bay)

I didn't get the beeping noise with my multimeter on the cable with the black end (the one im holding)
I got beeping noise trough the other cable in the connector, so i let that stay there. (white and purple or smth)
I cut the other one which didn't beep and i found out the other end (which goes into the car somewhere, into the dash or something i dunno)
The other end, the one i said is black at the cut, did not beep. This is the cable i've tracked who goes trough the engine wall to the yellow socket/connector to the fusebox. i did not get it to beep at the other end either.


First of all, what cable is this? I've heard the security/imobiliser is green but this is white and green.
Is this the problem?
 

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That ^ is the airbag cable isn't it.... fml lul

Thats the only irred connector ive seen so i guess im back to square one with my problem?
 
Welp i took out my glow plugs, and they are in working condition. they all heat up, but maybe not like lava red all along only 1cm on the tip.
They are beru plugs. I've ordered new ones just to, yeah.. now that im in there to say it like that.. Not beru, but Febi, but i guess their fine enough for couple years atleast.
Anyhow, i get diesel at injectors, and my glow plugs work by coupling them onto the + on batteri and - on -i suppose its self explanatory that i get air? :confused: Note i have taken off the immobilizer and alarm in the nanocom.
Still have fault code Engine Immobiliser link fault :( It cranks and cranks...
Might i have a bad engine, aka low compression, head gasket etc? I have coolant leak, but i have found a bad o-ring on the heater matrix which explains the amount of loss..

Should i test the compression? or is the fault code actually just hindering my engine starting over? Note i've not checked if i get 12v (or 11v) at glow plugs directly.. but my glow relay is intact, atleast the fuse........
I have a hotfix, but i've disabled it, without help.
I guess its not the FIP being busted due to me having diesel at the injectors?
I am atleast going to change my leak off pipes from injectors to rule out any air by the injectors.
 
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