P38 2.5DSE Immobilisation issue

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synchro

Well-Known Member
Posts
475
Location
Norway
Hello, i've tried to fix this for a week now soon and im mildly getting ****ed that nothing i've done has worked yet.

I have this issue: See attachment photo

What i've done: Checked fuel flow to FIP, (yes theres flow from the tubing which is clear)
Checked all the fuses, both in enginebay and under seat.
Checked all ecu connectors, blowed out all the dusts from every ecu connector.
Charged my battery

Read fault codes- attachment photo
Cleared code, came stright back.

When did this happend:

It happend at saturday morning, i tried to start my car but it never fired up, only the starter and fuel pumping

I do have a leak from heater matrix o rings, and ive checked the becm cables, they are not corroded or irred. by the A beam or under seat carpet. NOTE this is a LEFT hand drive, due to me living in Norway.
I'd say the carpet is moist, not like really wet. (It doesnt leak now obviously since theres no pressure in the coolant, not used the car since last Friday :(

I have nanocom evo

Sorry for a messy thread, i've heard this is the best forum with most knowledge, no cap. :D

cheers
 

Attachments

  • high res fault code.jpg
    high res fault code.jpg
    162 KB · Views: 156
Have you checked that the 4 number security code in the becm matches the code for the engine ecu if these dont match it will spin over and not fire,
if they dont you have to rewrite the code in the becm
 
I assume one glow plug might be dead, due to black/whiteish smoke at a few start ups (1 out of 40-50) but it really started up at first turn before it just quit...

I really have no clue what this is :oops:
:(
Any fault code experts here? :rolleyes:

Car is otherwise amazing to drive, i just gotta fix my middle axle u joint, i were supposed to fix it but hey car wouldnt start :)
 
I would input the EKA using the Nanocom and then turn off [passive] immobiliser and alarm and then double check the EMS code matches that in the the BECM (I put an idiot's guide in the Technical Section).

What year is it? Pre-99 only powers lift pump when glow-plugs are on. Post-99 pumps when cranking too. If there's fuel at 180ml in x seconds and the glows are definitely heating up then there's the crash trip behind the kick panel but I cannot remember if that stops the lift pump or the solenoid in the FIP or both. @Datatek or @tomcat59alan would probably remember.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I would input the EKA using the Nanocom and then turn off [passive] immobiliser and alarm and then double check the EMS code matches that in the the BECM (I put an idiot's guide in the Technical Section).

What year is it? Pre-99 only powers lift pump when glow-plugs are on. Post-99 pumps when cranking too. If there's fuel at 180ml in x seconds and the glows are definitely heating up then there's the crash trip behind the kick panel but I cannot remember if that stops the lift pump or the solenoid in the FIP or both. @Datatek or @tomcat59alan would probably remember.
Click to expand...
he says he has fuel to the FIP so is there power to the fuel cut off solenoid? If there is then I would be testing/ replacing the glow plugs, after turning off the immobiliser as you suggested.
 
The fuel cut off at the back of the injection pump was the next thing , get someone to turn the key while you feel the cut off solenoid, you should feel it click.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I would input the EKA using the Nanocom and then turn off [passive] immobiliser and alarm and then double check the EMS code matches that in the the BECM (I put an idiot's guide in the Technical Section).

What year is it? Pre-99 only powers lift pump when glow-plugs are on. Post-99 pumps when cranking too. If there's fuel at 180ml in x seconds and the glows are definitely heating up then there's the crash trip behind the kick panel but I cannot remember if that stops the lift pump or the solenoid in the FIP or both. @Datatek or @tomcat59alan would probably remember.
Click to expand...

Its a 96 late built 97 model.
Uhm, yeah have already taken off passive immobiliser and alarm, and the code still matches.

So i should feel a click in the fuel stop solenoid, but guys what about the fault code? Is the fault code not the reason for my problem?

What i believe is that this fault code makes my stop solenoid stop my car from startin.

But i have absolutly no idea what this fault code means, aka my first attachment in this thread.
 
I manually press the button on the nanocom for stop solenoid, i guess its not making any sound but anyhow, I try to start the car without pressing the stop solenoid button, not starting just cranking.
Then i press the button on the nanocom, still the same thing, nothing happends. Am i wrong in this, or should the stop solenoid open when there is power and it stays close when theres no power?

Could this possibly be just a dead stop solenoid? in that case im ripping it out so hard tomorrow that i will damage the engine mounts all the way to the moon.
I also guess that if i put my ignition on, remove wire to stop solenoid and check it wiht a multimiter it shoulds say 12volt right?

Or am i walking into a different continent now? Is the fault code the reason for my "litterually, immobilisation"
 
synchro said:
I manually press the button on the nanocom for stop solenoid, i guess its not making any sound but anyhow, I try to start the car without pressing the stop solenoid button, not starting just cranking.
Then i press the button on the nanocom, still the same thing, nothing happends. Am i wrong in this, or should the stop solenoid open when there is power and it stays close when theres no power?

Could this possibly be just a dead stop solenoid? in that case im ripping it out so hard tomorrow that i will damage the engine mounts all the way to the moon.
I also guess that if i put my ignition on, remove wire to stop solenoid and check it wiht a multimiter it shoulds say 12volt right?

Or am i walking into a different continent now? Is the fault code the reason for my "litterually, immobilisation"
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need to remove the wire just move the rubber cover and see if you have 12v if you do and it's not clicking then I would suggest it's fecked.
 
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