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Sorry @RangeRoller dt, short memory Steve...
P38 2.5dse 1997 MOT
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tomcat59alan
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- wirral and triquivijate
Don't like the idea of using a wood chisel, hope you wore eye protection.
i had eye protection whilst chisseling yes.
After i made a small gap around the whole hub, i then took the brakedisc on and used a sledgehammer from behind.
tbh, i've been buggered to much with getting dirt/rust on my eyes whilst working underneath the car, or just exploding the rust and dirt around with a hammer..
so yeah, eye protection is great.
Been there done that... dirt in the eye is not comfortable, and could be quite bad..
I do wear glasses in daily use, but glasses ain't enough for this typo dirt.
I've used a cnc machine 1 time without eye protection, but with my glasses. That was the last time without full eye protection
Might buy some safety glasses with strength. I could possibly even get it sponsored by my job
tomcat59alan
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Cutting blade in an angel grinder?Well, so yeah. The balljoint 6mm Allen key is rounded
well, it was that.. i dont have one
and im a milwaukee guy.
i guess i’ll have to buy one
Or maybe i could loan one, time will show. Whered best to cut it? Not too much accesibility to the nut, is it best to cut it inbetween joint and axle?
tomcat59alan
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- wirral and triquivijate
Never had to do it myself but I think I remember someone on here did.well, it was that.. i dont have one
and im a milwaukee guy.
i guess i’ll have to buy one
Or maybe i could loan one, time will show. Whered best to cut it? Not too much accesibility to the nut, is it best to cut it inbetween joint and axle?
- Posts
- 19,299
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
+1. Don't f*ck about. Just grind it off and then press it out. That b*st*rd was never going to let go.
welp, got help by my dad. He took them with an angle grinder. Upper one was easy to cut with an angle grinder, but the lower one was abit more narrow space, but it worked!
so my swivel joint is free. but i need to press out 1 of the remainings of the joint, and then shear of the nut on the other one and then press that one out, also gotta press out the ABS remains.
So tomorow im gonna press the old ball joints out, and new ones in.
If i am correct
I press out the upper one first, then lower, AND press in the lower one first, then upper?
i soaked the remains with penetrating juice
so my swivel joint is free. but i need to press out 1 of the remainings of the joint, and then shear of the nut on the other one and then press that one out, also gotta press out the ABS remains.
So tomorow im gonna press the old ball joints out, and new ones in.
If i am correct
I press out the upper one first, then lower, AND press in the lower one first, then upper?
i soaked the remains with penetrating juice
- Posts
- 19,299
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
The only thing that really matters is not to touch that adjustment collar on the lower one. Usually it is too rusty to move but leave well alone.
tomcat59alan
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- wirral and triquivijate
+1, from memory I think you have to press the top one out first to get access for the threaded part of the press for the bottom one. Hope the joints have been in the freezer and warm the yoke up a bit and fit them quickly.Good luck and well done Dad for coming to the rescue.
- Posts
- 19,299
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Make a mark nearby so you have a count of how many times they have been replaced. It can only be done 3 times. Mind you, that should be at least 400k miles if not 600k before that third replacement gives up.
Lower one fitted. It sat in the freezer for 30mins, didnt heat up the bore. I used 30 mins on it, Including finding the correct tools, also needed to swap cups mid preezing due to the size issues
And geez, my 1/2 lazy arm flexed quite a bit
it was hard to press it in, but manageable. My lazy arm is 60cm long.
not the best form, but ok for not training.
it was easier to press them out than in, i tough it should be the opposite, i guess its good its snug and not loose anyhow
I forgot to put them in the freezer yesterday, anyhow the upper one sat for over an hour now atleast, but it probably wont do much difference…
And geez, my 1/2 lazy arm flexed quite a bit
it was hard to press it in, but manageable. My lazy arm is 60cm long.
not the best form, but ok for not training.
it was easier to press them out than in, i tough it should be the opposite, i guess its good its snug and not loose anyhow
I forgot to put them in the freezer yesterday, anyhow the upper one sat for over an hour now atleast, but it probably wont do much difference…
Attachments
Done
used 20 mins on upper one, it did go smoother, and i didnt need a cup change.
Now i gotta prep the swivel joint, press out the remains of abs and joints.
Also gonna swap the axle seal, got a 36mm socket to gently tap it in. Then still awaiting my new pads and discs, also gotta fix the sliding pins..
Then i drive it up on my car ramps and torque the roll bar and links to 125nm.
and, any advice how to torque the ball joints? Or am i just gonna hold them with my allen key, and snug them as much ad i can with a spanner?
finally some progress!
used 20 mins on upper one, it did go smoother, and i didnt need a cup change.
Now i gotta prep the swivel joint, press out the remains of abs and joints.
Also gonna swap the axle seal, got a 36mm socket to gently tap it in. Then still awaiting my new pads and discs, also gotta fix the sliding pins..
Then i drive it up on my car ramps and torque the roll bar and links to 125nm.
and, any advice how to torque the ball joints? Or am i just gonna hold them with my allen key, and snug them as much ad i can with a spanner?
finally some progress!
Attachments
brianp38dse
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Looking good there
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- Rotherham
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- Rotherham
Twas me. Its my prefered method. I just cut the nut completely off and then the ball joint usually just pops out
I forgot to say that i apparently broke off the "Lock stop" bolt at the hub. Whilst smacking with a sledge the back of the hub bolts i might've hit the lock stop bolt so the head flied off..
is it important??? i suppose its for stopping the wheel turning to much??? only the head of the bolt is gone.
Guess it was weak due by salty roads for 25 years...
i suppose this is a bugger which needs to be fixed Since my car is LHD, that means if i try to go full lock to right wheels will rub the wheel arches?
is it important??? i suppose its for stopping the wheel turning to much??? only the head of the bolt is gone.
Guess it was weak due by salty roads for 25 years...
i suppose this is a bugger which needs to be fixed
Since my car is LHD, that means if i try to go full lock to right wheels will rub the wheel arches?
