P38 2.5dse 1997 MOT

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synchro said:
I forgot to say that i apparently broke off the "Lock stop" bolt at the hub. Whilst smacking with a sledge the back of the hub bolts i might've hit the lock stop bolt so the head flied off..
is it important??? i suppose its for stopping the wheel turning to much??? only the head of the bolt is gone.
Guess it was weak due by salty roads for 25 years...

i suppose this is a bugger which needs to be fixed :rolleyes: Since my car is LHD, that means if i try to go full lock to right wheels will rub the wheel arches?
View attachment 267099
Click to expand...
You need to fix it and adjust it correctly to avoid damage to the CV joints & boots.
 
Datatek said:
You need to fix it and adjust it correctly to avoid damage to the CV joints & boots.
Click to expand...

Ok, do you know what bolt it is?
I assume i can drive the car, as long as i don't take it full right lock?
Obviously im gonna fix it asap, just gotta know what bolt it is, and get the old one out :rolleyes:
 
Yes they are the stops for the wheel turning

Need mine as a daily but way things are going by time get around to doing mine they’ll have been in freezer so long will press them in by hand :p
Good amount of debris on the floor/your eyes. Suspect I will have a decent amount also
 
the lower ball joint is truly a a**hole :eek:

As i said earlier, we had to cut it off inbetween the axle yoke and swivel hub, in order to get the hub out. The taper has not been released, so it just sits snug in there... Tried to press it out, was a bit sketchy due to the way i had to set the joint at the press... So i stopped at 5ton pressure. (dont want it flying out like a space ship)
Is the best way just to use a sledge whilst its laying on the floor?

I did get the upper joint off, cut the nut 95% off with a tiny angle grinder and used a chissel and hammered it away the rest. So atleast the upper one is clear..

Just the lower one now, but it's quite on there....

Sledge + floor? Or any other tips?
I've heated it up, and smacked it with no progress.:oops:
Also, geez, the swivel hub really ain't a VICE unit... Such a bugger shape.
 
brianp38dse said:
Normally to release the tapers in joints you use two large hammers and strike the bit holding the taper either side at the same time.
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Cheers, will be my first quest after work tommorow. Then i can finally fit my swivel back to the fresh new ball joints :)
as there is just vertical movement at the upper ball joint i suppose it will be fine to straight up torqueing it down to 110NM as its stated without holding it with the allen key in bottom.
I don't get it how you apply torque to the lower one, as that will spin i assume?
 
Easier coming out than in because it is held straight. Has to be absolutely straight and lined up to go in otherwise it fights and gets wrecked. A little rest and try again sometimes helps.

Torque values will be in RAVE but probably less than you think.

Lock stop - get the stub out and see what thread it is. Replace with hard stainless for preference.
 
brianp38dse said:
Normally to release the tapers in joints you use two large hammers and strike the bit holding the taper either side at the same time.
Click to expand...
My personal weapons of choice when splitting tapers;)
 

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Hammering away all day, with two hammers, 1 sledge hammer, 1 hammer…
Am i using the wrong hammer?? Bugger wont move :eek::eek:

im blasting it with all the juices
 

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synchro said:
Hammering away all day, with two hammers, 1 sledge hammer, 1 hammer…
Am i using the wrong hammer?? Bugger wont move :eek::eek:

im blasting it with all the juices
Click to expand...

I'd be looking at sourcing a replacement as that seems settled in for the duration of the World

Having said that, have you tried a gas axe ? to warm the outer bit up, then whacking it ? ...
 
Flossie said:
Is there any engineering businesses near you? A big hydraulic press should get it out.
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just a car workshop. Anyhow, Would it help loosing the adjustment collar for the centralizing of the axle?
Maybe not taking it completly off, but just making it move freely atleast? as long as i take it back to the same old position?

The collar does not stop it from moving at any way right?
 
synchro said:
just a car workshop. Anyhow, Would it help loosing the adjustment collar for the centralizing of the axle?
Maybe not taking it completly off, but just making it move freely atleast? as long as i take it back to the same old position?

The collar does not stop it from moving at any way right?
Click to expand...
The collar will not stop it from coming out.heat the threaded piece as hot as you can then plunge it in water
 
When I did mine I used a fork tool to pre-load the tension on the old taper, and then applied the two hammer trick. Top & bottom tapers popped out.

Then it was on to the loads of heat & large ball joint tool to remove them. Replacements spent 30 hours in the freezer prior to fitting !!

Was doing it kneeling on the driveway, so that helped being in the praying position for the job to be complete.
 
pwood999 said:
When I did mine I used a fork tool to pre-load the tension on the old taper, and then applied the two hammer trick. Top & bottom tapers popped out.

Then it was on to the loads of heat & large ball joint tool to remove them. Replacements spent 30 hours in the freezer prior to fitting !!

Was doing it kneeling on the driveway, so that helped being in the praying position for the job to be complete.
Click to expand...
Praying helps Pete.;):)
 
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