p38 2.5 dsi unhappy new owner - help

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tyke100

tyke100

Active Member
Posts
418
Location
derby
hi guys.
i just bought this randy range rover and have nothing as problems with it.

it came with not working blower motors.
i replaced the bulb behind the hevoc. is showing display.
i removed the aftermarket radio which was more a joke as a radio put in by someones child. lol.
i Cleaned the wood lands out the boot.
and so on.
done a oilchange with filter. cleaned the engine bay.
ordered a new airpump.

now i tried today exchanging the keyfob housing as the buttons on the old ones been broke off.
after i cut 2 fingers i finally got the interior out of the old housing.
in the process i broke a little blue block off which is apparently a inductor coil and not important for the function of the remote fob.
since - i put all back together - the lights - when pressing lock and unlock - dont come on anymore - even the batteries are new.
plus the car wont start, telling me remote disabled.

im getting quiet ****ed of now . 48 hours loads of money and i have a non working peace of scrap metal on my drive which i am close to burn to get my money back.

would anyone have any ideas please how to get this thing moving before i loose my patience ?
and no i have no intention spending anymore in it.
i think by now i paid enough for it to have some use out of it.

if it is possible i would disable the alarm and immobiliser to avoid further problems.

thank you , and sorry for the rant.
 
Did you fit the little negative battery jumper that sits in the battery cap? A lot of the replacement housings don’t have it in them and you have to salvage it from the old cap and fit it to the new (ask me how I know). Without that the remote is dead and always will be. In addition the cap only fits in one specific spot so it all makes contact.
 
What year?
I suspect the induction coil is read by the ignition lock and wont play if not there.
More knowledgeable folks will probably correct me tho
 
You have knackered the fob a new one is needed they are not cheap. Available only from a dealer. You will need to take your log book in to order it. One thing you do not do when changing a fob cover is cut anywhere near the red lamp. You can of course get the EKA and immobiliser disabled if you know anyone with a Nanocom and just use the key.
 
Replacing the FOB buttons is just a case of prising the button pad out. In spliting the FOB case you have knackered the printed circuit board. There is a Guy on here who repairs FOB's www.FOBFIX.com £50.
If you can find someone with a Nanocom nearby, get the EKA and Immobiliser disabled and you can then use the car with just the key and no FOB.
If it needs a new compressor for the EAS, odds on the airsprings also need changing, it's the leaks that knacker the compressor.
Remember, a Range Rover is not a car, it's a hobby.
 
i didnt cut near the lights. i cut around the bottom.
yes this alu l thing - i seen it and put it back in the new one. lol

and i know the range rover is old but i didnt expect something like and kayfob i.e even a dead batterie in it makes the vat on a non value metal pile.

i dont think i have anyone around derby with that Nanocom. what is it and how useful is it. especially how much is it ?
can this dreaded immobiliser and alarm thing b e switched off permanent ? to avoid the same problem form happening again?


airpump - i ordered a new one because the previous owner didnt bother and used a compressor to blow the bags up.
its holding air for about 4 days.
i just cant be bothered using a compressor especially when its raining. lol.

and to the replacement keyfob - the cheapest quote i got so far is 125 or even more.
( yes i do have this immobiliser code )


i am sorry if i sound ungrateful but i sod cars with less problems before as i cant crawl around a car anymore since my accident and money dosnt grow on trees.
and dont say buy a new car. they awhfull small under powered and useless. they breaking too.
and they have no style.

all i really needs is get rid if this immobiliser crap and a starting car and thats it. everything else is done.
 
tyke100 said:
i didnt cut near the lights. i cut around the bottom.
yes this alu l thing - i seen it and put it back in the new one. lol

and i know the range rover is old but i didnt expect something like and kayfob i.e even a dead batterie in it makes the vat on a non value metal pile.

i dont think i have anyone around derby with that Nanocom. what is it and how useful is it. especially how much is it ?
can this dreaded immobiliser and alarm thing b e switched off permanent ? to avoid the same problem form happening again?


airpump - i ordered a new one because the previous owner didnt bother and used a compressor to blow the bags up.
its holding air for about 4 days.
i just cant be bothered using a compressor especially when its raining. lol.

and to the replacement keyfob - the cheapest quote i got so far is 125 or even more.
( yes i do have this immobiliser code )


i am sorry if i sound ungrateful but i sod cars with less problems before as i cant crawl around a car anymore since my accident and money dosnt grow on trees.
and dont say buy a new car. they awhfull small under powered and useless. they breaking too.
and they have no style.

all i really needs is get rid if this immobiliser crap and a starting car and thats it. everything else is done.
Click to expand...
A Nanocom is about £400, but if you plan to keep the car it will pay for itself in no time. EKA and the Immobiliser can be turned off permanently, I run 2 P38's like that. Cheaper than buying a new FOB.
A new FOB for the P38 can ONLY be purchased from a dealer, about £280 when I inquired.
Unless the actual case was damaged, there was no need to try and open it to replace the buttons, just the pad can be removed.
As for the new compressor, it's likely it will not run if there is a hard fault present in the EAS,so diagnostics would be needed for that. Any messages on the dash?
 
tyke100 said:
1996
Click to expand...
Welcome, unfortunately you've dropped into the world of "it may be old but still expensive to repair".
These cars are complicated and a monster money pit if you get a none loved one. If you choose to except this mission ethen, you'll get no end of enjoyment but the path is long and winding.
Ask a few who own them how much they spent buying theirs and how much they've spent since owning it. And... It does become a good machine to own.
The nanocom is the best diagnostic tool for the P38 as it doesn't talk to conventional obd2 systems.

If you like the P38, you'll get a lot of joy from it, even those who don't believe they are a reliable cars still keep them because they secretly love them..
Mine cost me 3400€. A 99'.
A month later it cost me 1000€ in suspension parts, exhaust, and brakes.
Since then, tyres, radiator, pilot injector, height sensors, a run in shock absorbers and still a list....
They are a mega car and mega complicated but we think they're worth it.
If you don't feel that way, get rid and buy something different. It may not be your type of project;)
Good luck with the adventure, there's plenty of info available to you when you need it. :D
 
Datatek said:
A Nanocom is about £400, but if you plan to keep the car it will pay for itself in no time. EKA and the Immobiliser can be turned off permanently, I run 2 P38's like that. Cheaper than buying a new FOB.
A new FOB for the P38 can ONLY be purchased from a dealer, about £280 when I inquired.
Unless the actual case was damaged, there was no need to try and open it to replace the buttons, just the pad can be removed.
As for the new compressor, it's likely it will not run if there is a hard fault present in the EAS,so diagnostics would be needed for that. Any messages on the dash?
Click to expand...



no. there was no messages.
i did check the compressor and it didnt kick in when connected on the bench. i know it can be repaired but my knowledge is not going so far.
there is electric coming to the compressor from the switch.
i didnt bother and just bought another one.
at this time the key was working. lol
so is not i dont want to spend money in it.

but if you already buying replacement parts and stuff for it and spend 400 to 500 in it before you drive off in it, another 100 or 200 just to start the car seems expensive at the time.

i need to change the blower motors too - which arrived today - but without the key there is no electric and no way to know if the new ones working.
the hevoc is repaired.
so yes, i done quiet a lot on it. if i wanted a scrap one to fix over a period of 2 years i would not spend more then 500 on the whole car in the first pace.

the buttons on the fob needed to be pressed with a pin in order to close and open, hence buying a new fob.

i dont can satisfy 400 either on that nanocom. o have to see of any of the garages i know has one of them to borrow. at least not at the moment . maybe in a couple month.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Welcome, unfortunately you've dropped into the world of "it may be old but still expensive to repair".
These cars are complicated and a monster money pit if you get a none loved one. If you choose to except this mission ethen, you'll get no end of enjoyment but the path is long and winding.
Ask a few who own them how much they spent buying theirs and how much they've spent since owning it. And... It does become a good machine to own.
The nanocom is the best diagnostic tool for the P38 as it doesn't talk to conventional obd2 systems.

If you like the P38, you'll get a lot of joy from it, even those who don't believe they are a reliable cars still keep them because they secretly love them..
Mine cost me 3400€. A 99'.
A month later it cost me 1000€ in suspension parts, exhaust, and brakes.
Since then, tyres, radiator, pilot injector, height sensors, a run in shock absorbers and still a list....
They are a mega car and mega complicated but we think they're worth it.
If you don't feel that way, get rid and buy something different. It may not be your type of project;)
Good luck with the adventure, there's plenty of info available to you when you need it. :D
Click to expand...

if i wouldnt like the style and the drive on it i would not buy one.
from all 4x4s it seemed the most enjoyable and reliable one.
i dont want to get rid of it but i expected to get some stuff done over time not hiring a storage space and hopefully get it running by next year.
i bought it to use it.

i know of suspension problems. if it comes to it it get converted to coils. i can get the kit for 200 quit all around.
i do expect it will be happen one day.
all i need is to switch this immobiliser thing off. permanent. that is something i hate.

i see if i know anyone i can borrow that naocom - if anyone has it - to get it running .
but i cant satisfy the 400 pound to buy one at the moment. and the galaxy i owe now is going by thursday so it needs to run by then.
 
tyke100 said:
if i wouldnt like the style and the drive on it i would not buy one.
from all 4x4s it seemed the most enjoyable and reliable one.
i dont want to get rid of it but i expected to get some stuff done over time not hiring a storage space and hopefully get it running by next year.
i bought it to use it.

i know of suspension problems. if it comes to it it get converted to coils. i can get the kit for 200 quit all around.
i do expect it will be happen one day.
all i need is to switch this immobiliser thing off. permanent. that is something i hate.

i see if i know anyone i can borrow that naocom - if anyone has it - to get it running .
but i cant satisfy the 400 pound to buy one at the moment. and the galaxy i owe now is going by thursday so it needs to run by then.
Click to expand...
As I said good luck. You my have bought the wrong car if your in a rush..
face-palm-emoticon-vector-12786472.jpg
 
well any car is wrong when you in a rush. lol. and everything worked . it started. so all other stuff can be done when money comes back in.
 
I think if buying a new fob,There is only 4 new fobs you can buy ,If uv got 1 and two ,you need Number 3 or 4.... If number 3 has already been used it wont work again if you buy one ,Its something like that ;).....RR.
 
Welcome as said these cars are a hobby as me and my dad found out. I had on my diesel P38 to fix air suspension and then lift pump, turbo, injection pump and cylinder head (cracked) and new HEVAC unit. So be prepared to spend money they are great cars but need to be treated with kit gloves. Our community on here is great so any issues we can help you.
 
Bear in mind also that even with a new fob, if you have one or more dud microswitch in the door latch pack then you won't be able to enter the EKA so you might still be stuffed.
Micriswitches in the latch are a common failure.
You really need someone close by with nanocom for this one.
There is a map somewhere showing people who have various diagnostic kit but not sure where it is, I'm sure another member will be able to point you in the right direction.
 
thats great advise. thank you. i keep that in mind to look at solutions now before it starts becoming a problem..
we got it working. soldering and patience from a friend as i run out of it after 4 hours. lol.
it opens close and starts again.

now back to the problem with the blowers not working.
we got both out. left and right. got electric onto the blowers.
both working on the bench

still not working when connected to the car.
and yes, now the key works again ordered a needed batterie.

so - yes old,cars need tlc.

its just if tis running the necessary stuff comes before the other. and not all in once.
 
tyke100 said:
thats great advise. thank you. i keep that in mind to look at solutions now before it starts becoming a problem..
we got it working. soldering and patience from a friend as i run out of it after 4 hours. lol.
it opens close and starts again.

now back to the problem with the blowers not working.
we got both out. left and right. got electric onto the blowers.
both working on the bench

still not working when connected to the car.
and yes, now the key works again ordered a needed batterie.

so - yes old,cars need tlc.

its just if tis running the necessary stuff comes before the other. and not all in once.
Click to expand...
@tyke100 I had the same problem with the fans took the HEVAC out cleaned it up and no luck. Blowers worked in a direct supply. Took the plunge got a 2nd hand HEVAC unit and problem solved. Must be something in HEVAC circuit board in end just as easy to replace the unit. Me and my brother spent a long time checking all the circuits. Don't think 2nd hand HEVAC was that expensive.
 
@tyke100 another option is the dial for the fan speed has an issue on contact with the circuit board maybe take it apart and clean it up might work. When you turn the dial it shows the fan speed but no blower. Mine is 1995 and urs is 1996 it you said so you might have the original HEVAC sounds like got same issue I had. Let me know how you get on. I know a chap in Wales who ships parts out next day. PM me if you want his details?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Central lock
2 3
Replies
55
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
F
2001 P38 2.5 Diesel EKA Via NANOCOM
2
Replies
35
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
I
P38 BeCM locked?
Replies
8
Views
711
pwood999
pwood999
MrGorsky
P38A Occasional "Engine Disabled Press Remote" message on dash.
Replies
19
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Radar1946
P38A Mobile mechanic near Lichfield, Staffs.
Replies
13
Views
521
Radar1946
Radar1946
Back
Top