P38 2.5 DSE Non starter. 1999.. Plus No Reverse..

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RangeRoller dt said:
I'm with Mark it's most likely middle seal, I would try replacing both seals rather than potching with that box. Get the feeling you will regret it if you try taking it off. When you find a picture of what it looks like/how it is connected you will agree :D Even rub hylomar around it lol.

Remember :



Has your injector light stopped flashing?
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Cop was allegedly replaced about 12 months ago. Will get manifold off and have a play.

(My injector light wasn’t flashing, that was someone else’s question / problem earlier in the thread. I have no warning lights/messages on dash at all now. )
 
BrenK said:
Cop was allegedly replaced about 12 months ago. Will get manifold off and have a play.

(My injector light wasn’t flashing, that was someone else’s question / problem earlier in the thread. I have no warning lights/messages on dash at all now. )
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Hate predictive text !!! Cop should read Fip!!
 
BrenK said:
I had cleaned it all up and was watching it from under car with an inspection lamp.

Definitely slow drip from centre of black box. That is very close to the middle seal though, so could be that.

What I don’t know is what exactly is behind the black electric box? Is there a seal behind it? Would have thought that as it’s electrical there should be some sort of seal to prevent diesel getting in there? But can’t see anything on the parts diagrams for the service kits ?

Thanks.
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What mileage is this car? EDIT: just seen your note on the FIP. It cannot be leaking at 12 months if it is a refurbed one.

The seal kit is about £15 off the Bay. Someone on here did a guide to changing them. Mark up that pump top on every edge. It has to go back in EXACTLY the same place. There'e the top and middle and then there are some on the sides.
 
Grrrrrr said:
What mileage is this car? EDIT: just seen your note on the FIP. It cannot be leaking at 12 months if it is a refurbed one.

The seal kit is about £15 off the Bay. Someone on here did a guide to changing them. Mark up that pump top on every edge. It has to go back in EXACTLY the same place. There'e the top and middle and then there are some on the sides.
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Mileage is 132,000
Is there a torque setting for the pump bolts?
I’ll have a look at weekend and order a seal kit. (I can not get Rave to download or open)
Thanks.
 
BrenK said:
Excellent dt ! Just what I needed.
Will order seal kit when I get home and sort it at weekend.
Cheers
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You need to know how to do it, you cannot just strip it a plonk it back together. Top is no problem centre section is an all different ball game. As is pressure head.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
This is the thread where he took that black box out with pictures.

PAY CLOSE attention to what @wammers is saying in the thread, and to the fact it ended without the rebuild get working part ;):eek::D

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fip-strip-with-lots-of-pictures.270661/
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Thanks "Range Roller dt," but I'm getting a bit confused now? Are you posting these links for me to get info from or telling me not to follow them?

Just for the record I am an engineer by trade, albeit a gas one, so am well used to taking appliances apart, and rebuilding them, and usually getting them working, hahahaha. I've also spent my fair share of time working on cars and motorbikes over the years, But the Range Rover is a new marque to me, and I've quickly learnt that following "logic" is irrelevant on P38's' lol.

As for Mr Wammers, it is abundantly clear from the hundreds of threads I've already read that he is "MR P38". So any advice given will be followed to the letter. I'm on the forum to learn and be educated and you only do that by listening to people that not only know what they are talking about, but have also done it!

If I can get hold of a working copy of Rave I'll be in my element, but still appreciate and need the advice of experts like wammers, and the other guys on here. I will have a go at anything if I've got enough information and pointers to have a chance of doing it successfully, and avoid any pitfalls etc. But am also knowledgeable enough to know when something is above me, and leave it to an expert. If the top and middle seals is a job that a competent Diyer can tackle, armed with the info freely given and greatfully received, then I'll have a go......

If it requires the Fip taking out and the timing re doing etc, then I wont go any where near it. As I know it would be beyond me and I don't have the right tools to do it etc.

Can't really do anything until the weekend now, time wise, so any advice or pointers given before then would be very much appreciated.

Cheers.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Ok I just thought it would give you
More information on someone that already did what you were intending I.e - relevant to topic?
Sorry :)
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Don't be sorry!! I wasn't having a pop. Just doing what I should have done when I introduced my self, and giving a bit of back ground information. Just trying to show that I'm a half competent (or is that half wit....can never remember, haha) diyer when it comes to cars. It does scare me some times on forums when people ask for advice on how to do complex procedures.....and then ask "how do you open the bonnet.....where is the Battery etc.......

And having re-read my post, I wasn't being sarcastic either! Genuinely was confused as to whether the videos were supposed to be good information, as several of the comments afterwards appear to suggest not?

You taking the time to reply and link info in etc is very much appreciated. :)
 
It's okay I don't mind people having a pop (if it's deserved). Not that's what I think you were doing.

I don't want to confuse you I thought it would help. There is relevant info on there like the 12mm socket cheat for the security bolt, but that wasn't crash's 1st pump, I don't want you to make the same mistakes

If you get stuck on the rave/torque issue I will get what I can and copy on here for you ;)
 
Right....Seal kit ordered after I had an early finish today so made use of the sunshine. Is middle seal leaking. FIP was allegedly a refurbed one in 2017!

Onto next problem.....and this is the one I've been dreading....... the gearbox.

Knew it had a problem and that's one of the reasons it was being sold. Goes through all the gears ok, and drives, but seems slow (I know they not racing cars) but takes what seems like an age to get to 30. Holds on to gears for ages, changes up around 3k revs? Revs to about 4k and is flat out at just about 70mph, is that normal too?

But big problem is no reverse at all. Lights on and dash shows, but wont move, even if you rev it. Was hoping a good service would cure it, but now suspecting that won't be enough.

Will drop a bit of oil out tomorrow and see what it looks like.
But am I right in thinking if its really black and smells burnt its game over for the box?
Cheers.
 
Gearbox: @jamesmartin is the man to ask. Remind me, is this auto?

FIP. Check receipt. Warranty? Give them a ring. No way a pump should leak after a year. Done in situ. Think @biketeacherdave did a how to somewhere. There's a security bolt but bang a socket on. Mark up absolutely everywhere though as it needs to go back to within fractions of a millimetre.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Gearbox: @jamesmartin is the man to ask. Remind me, is this auto?

FIP. Check receipt. Warranty? Give them a ring. No way a pump should leak after a year. Done in situ. Think @biketeacherdave did a how to somewhere. There's a security bolt but bang a socket on. Mark up absolutely everywhere though as it needs to go back to within fractions of a millimetre.
Click to expand...

Yep, its Auto.....please tell me an oil and filter change and some Lucas in it will sort it out, :D, but sadly i think it's gonna be cream crackered....
 
BrenK said:
Yep, its Auto.....please tell me an oil and filter change and some Lucas in it will sort it out, :D, but sadly i think it's gonna be cream crackered....
Click to expand...

Never know until you try. Sometimes the XYZ cable needs adjusting or summat. Mine's a manual but I seem to remember @Saint.V8 having some issues with his a while back.
 
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