P38 2.5 dhse non starter

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ive ran with a completely dead pump for years. Only tends to cause an issue starting engine fully warm or if below 1/4 of tank so wouldnt think its that alone.

if you got your helper check to see the stop solenoid on the FIP makes a click (feel it with your hand) as they cycle the ignition
the way id check is - do you get fuel at the injector HP unions while cranking as this would show even without the lift pump that the FIP is pulling fuel through and its not a loss of sync issue (as ive never had diagnostics)

if you dont have your helper but need something to carry on with start with basics - battery good, starter should be trying to take off, no bubbles in clear pipe, 180mils before filter, no mil lamp on dash while cranking, cps plugged in okay, plugs i would prioritise - i have hotstart/pre egr so can cycle them on dozen times or more if i suspect them tired
 
ive ran with a completely dead pump for years. Only tends to cause an issue starting engine fully warm or if below 1/4 of tank so wouldnt think its that alone.

if you got your helper check to see the stop solenoid on the FIP makes a click (feel it with your hand) as they cycle the ignition
the way id check is - do you get fuel at the injector HP unions while cranking as this would show even without the lift pump that the FIP is pulling fuel through and its not a loss of sync issue (as ive never had diagnostics)

if you dont have your helper but need something to carry on with start with basics - battery good, starter should be trying to take off, no bubbles in clear pipe, 180mils before filter, no mil lamp on dash while cranking, cps plugged in okay, plugs i would prioritise - i have hotstart/pre egr so can cycle them on dozen times or more if i suspect them tired
With a dead in tank pump on one of mine it would not start at all. Failed leak off pipes had the same effect. The other one would start and run no problem.
 
ive ran with a completely dead pump for years. Only tends to cause an issue starting engine fully warm or if below 1/4 of tank so wouldnt think its that alone.

if you got your helper check to see the stop solenoid on the FIP makes a click (feel it with your hand) as they cycle the ignition
the way id check is - do you get fuel at the injector HP unions while cranking as this would show even without the lift pump that the FIP is pulling fuel through and its not a loss of sync issue (as ive never had diagnostics)

if you dont have your helper but need something to carry on with start with basics - battery good, starter should be trying to take off, no bubbles in clear pipe, 180mils before filter, no mil lamp on dash while cranking, cps plugged in okay, plugs i would prioritise - i have hotstart/pre egr so can cycle them on dozen times or more if i suspect them tired
Many thanks will try out everything suggested
 
With a dead in tank pump on one of mine it would not start at all. Failed leak off pipes had the same effect. The other one would start and run no problem.
All leak off pipes have been replaced but in tank pump looking like dead. Will test tomorrow properly
 
With a dead in tank pump on one of mine it would not start at all. Failed leak off pipes had the same effect. The other one would start and run no problem.
i have actually got a pump now Keith albeit a crap one :oops: It makes a bit of difference all round but not to the effect i was hoping for but mine has always started cold first turn unless spills or starter play up. Still have to welly it up steep hills a bit
 
Right heres an update I would say I've found the problem. 4 of the 6 glow plugs duff and reading on one of the 2 not very good. Local motor factors can get them in for 3.00 this afternoon so hopefully can get running later
 
Success new glow plugs and fired up straight away:D:D Alas when I took it for a run clouds of black smoke coming out of exhaust:eek::eek::eek: I'm a numpty for got to tighten jubilee clip on hose to inlet manifold and it blew off:rolleyes::rolleyes: Anyway phew back on tightened up and back on the road again:D:D
 
Don't forget to put some copper slip on the threads when you put them back in.
Tip bit of tissue in socket to hold small nut that holds cable on makes life a lot easier to refit
Just tested all mine (NGK) and all good, number 4 was well tight and the hardest to get a socket straight on, injector pipe in the way. I used a 1/4" drive on the other 5 but couldn't get the leverage on the super tight number 4. 1/2" drive made access worse so I ended up using 1/2" socket, 1/2" - 3/8" adaptor, 3/8" 6" extension then 3/8"-1/2" adaptor to use 1/2" ratchet.
Copper greased them all too.
The tissue tip worked well:D
 
Just tested all mine (NGK) and all good, number 4 was well tight and the hardest to get a socket straight on, injector pipe in the way. I used a 1/4" drive on the other 5 but couldn't get the leverage on the super tight number 4. 1/2" drive made access worse so I ended up using 1/2" socket, 1/2" - 3/8" adaptor, 3/8" 6" extension then 3/8"-1/2" adaptor to use 1/2" ratchet.
Copper greased them all too.
The tissue tip worked well:D
Nice one:D:D
 
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