Another option: Assuming it`s faulty wiring to the stop solenoid simply hard wire the solenoid into the "run" position. Put a switch into the circuit to turn engine off, into the passenger compartment. OK, this is a bodge, but is low cost, low effort, and just may trouble shoot the fault... Maybe not a sensible option , more "brain-stormin".
p38 2.4 dse engine cutting out
- Thread starter nisbeam
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nisbeam
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Thanks for the good advice. But after spending so much on replacement parts already trying to solve, I would like to identify if it really is the stop solenoid first. Any ideas how I might test this?
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Yes it takes a reading from the crank position sensor. But this causes limp mode.
nisbeam
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wammers. Thanks, in that case I think I can rule it out because it never goes into limp mode (I assume that's the 35mph max setting).
I have been ploughing through Rave but where to start :-(
I have been ploughing through Rave but where to start :-(
nisbeam
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Just thinking, could disconnecting the battery reset things, like the ECU or bEcm ? If so it may be worth trying in case they are slightly out of synch. If I do this, how long should I leave it disconnected, just seen half an hour in another post, is that a known or should I leave longer . Thanks, 
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Just thinking, could disconnecting the battery reset things, like the ECU or bEcm ? If so it may be worth trying in case they are slightly out of synch. If I do this, how long should I leave it disconnected, just seen half an hour in another post, is that a known or should I leave longer . Thanks,
I don't think that is your problem. You might cause your self more trouble than you have. That is a last resort try hoping that the ECUs will resync on connection. You don't have an out of sync problem you have a bad connection somewhere.
nisbeam
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OK thanks wammers. Will keep trying in the hope that I can get a hard fault, but as the tax runs out this month, will have to send off the SORN as I cant risk driving around too far until I can sort it out. :-(
steve's P38 RR
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I've just ordered a new fuse box for mine could smell burning took it right apart and could see where it had been hot, and also looks like water had been in there, so had to start somewhere and thats the only thing i can find a fault with at the min, would like to replace all the relays but the cost mounts up.
nisbeam
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Ah, feeling a bit sheepish but hoping I have found the cause
I found details of how to check the battery here
RangeRovers.net • View topic - Sticky: Electrical Troubleshooting Updated 2010
and it is showing below spec in all tests. The faults did originally start when the battery failed, but when charged it showed over 12 volts so I thought it was OK. Of course it starts immediately on the key so this also suggested it may be OK but it is clearly not.
Anyway, will get a new battery & post back the results.
I found details of how to check the battery here
RangeRovers.net • View topic - Sticky: Electrical Troubleshooting Updated 2010
and it is showing below spec in all tests. The faults did originally start when the battery failed, but when charged it showed over 12 volts so I thought it was OK. Of course it starts immediately on the key so this also suggested it may be OK but it is clearly not.
Anyway, will get a new battery & post back the results.
Hi Gents,
Just in case it helps - I had the same symptoms engine cutting out without pattern or reason usually several days /miles apart.
In my case I dropped the tank to find the gauze filter on thr fuel pick up full of black sludge built up over the years - cleaned it out - no probs since that was several months ago now
Just in case it helps - I had the same symptoms engine cutting out without pattern or reason usually several days /miles apart.
In my case I dropped the tank to find the gauze filter on thr fuel pick up full of black sludge built up over the years - cleaned it out - no probs since that was several months ago now
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Ah, feeling a bit sheepish but hoping I have found the cause
I found details of how to check the battery here
RangeRovers.net • View topic - Sticky: Electrical Troubleshooting Updated 2010
and it is showing below spec in all tests. The faults did originally start when the battery failed, but when charged it showed over 12 volts so I thought it was OK. Of course it starts immediately on the key so this also suggested it may be OK but it is clearly not.
Anyway, will get a new battery & post back the results.
There in may be a problem. Have you checked the alternator output? Only in the start phase is power supplied to the fuel lift pump relay activation circuit by the battery. When the key is returned from cranking position to run position there is a polarity reversal in the pump relay activation circuit and it is pulled in by current directly from the alternator. At times of high demand on the alternator there may not be enough current to run all the systems. Just a thought.
nisbeam
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wantaquad - thank, but I have already fitted a new pump & filter, pretty sure this is electrical problem.
wammers - I'm afraid you may be right and this will be my next check after fitting the new battery. The battery shows only 12.1 volts and even charging at 2000 revs only reaches 13.5. When I charged the battery some time ago (when the problem started) the "ready" light never came on to indicate that changing had completed. But I thought this was because it was a big battery & my little charger was not up to the job. Of course there is plenty of power to start, lights, etc. all work fine but the voltage is still lower than it should be so this has to be my starting point. So I have to fit a new battery anyway but will check the alternator as well. Thanks again.
wammers - I'm afraid you may be right and this will be my next check after fitting the new battery. The battery shows only 12.1 volts and even charging at 2000 revs only reaches 13.5. When I charged the battery some time ago (when the problem started) the "ready" light never came on to indicate that changing had completed. But I thought this was because it was a big battery & my little charger was not up to the job. Of course there is plenty of power to start, lights, etc. all work fine but the voltage is still lower than it should be so this has to be my starting point. So I have to fit a new battery anyway but will check the alternator as well. Thanks again.
nisbeam
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New battery fitted, electrics obviously better (windows fly up & down), but problem still there. However I may be on to something.
With ignition on but engine not running, I head a faint buzz from the alternator, AND occasional crackling like some thing shorting out, and also clicking. If I run the engine for a while and it is running steadily (i.e. not doing it's misfire thing) then switch off engine, leave ignition on then I don't hear any crackling and barely any faint buzzing, sometime none at all.
So is this crackling noise normal or is it a sign of a knackered alternator? Thanks.
With ignition on but engine not running, I head a faint buzz from the alternator, AND occasional crackling like some thing shorting out, and also clicking. If I run the engine for a while and it is running steadily (i.e. not doing it's misfire thing) then switch off engine, leave ignition on then I don't hear any crackling and barely any faint buzzing, sometime none at all.
So is this crackling noise normal or is it a sign of a knackered alternator?
Thanks.
Derek Ward
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Not normal. If it's definitely coming from the alternator, I think you need to change it.
nisbeam
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Update and plea for help:
Intermittent engine cut-out also intermittent won't start.
Replaced lots of components as advised by dealers & running out of money: fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, fuse box, ignition switch, battery, alternator check & OK, Electrical fault which seems like a loose wire or connector somewhere. BUT here is the bit none of the "mechanics" seem to have noticed.. ignition on but don't start engine, there is a buzzing from the area of the alternator, alternator is checked and OK so it's not that. Also occasional crackling like electrical shorting out, and in addition occasional clicking from the same area. Now to me none of these sound right and would suggest intermittent faults in line with my intermittent engine cut-out issue. But here's the thing, when all goes quiet & there is no buzzing at all - the engine won't start. So what component is in that area. Thinking of using a cardboard tube to try to locate it. Is there anyone out there who may be able to help? I can try to come to you if need be, might get stuck but am getting dsesparate now. I live in southern part of Wiltshire, between Marlborough & Andover.
Thanks.
Intermittent engine cut-out also intermittent won't start.
Replaced lots of components as advised by dealers & running out of money: fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, fuse box, ignition switch, battery, alternator check & OK, Electrical fault which seems like a loose wire or connector somewhere. BUT here is the bit none of the "mechanics" seem to have noticed.. ignition on but don't start engine, there is a buzzing from the area of the alternator, alternator is checked and OK so it's not that. Also occasional crackling like electrical shorting out, and in addition occasional clicking from the same area. Now to me none of these sound right and would suggest intermittent faults in line with my intermittent engine cut-out issue. But here's the thing, when all goes quiet & there is no buzzing at all - the engine won't start. So what component is in that area. Thinking of using a cardboard tube to try to locate it. Is there anyone out there who may be able to help? I can try to come to you if need be, might get stuck but am getting dsesparate now. I live in southern part of Wiltshire, between Marlborough & Andover.
Thanks.
