P38 1998 wont crank

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We are a bit fussy on here... We like you to introduce yourself and tell us a few details about your motor, engine etc, in order to generate some useful ideas, otherwise most people will just tell you to whack it with a tree branch, Basil Fawlty style.

Welcome anyway :)
 
crawnon said:
Sorry about that, but getting very frustrated, 1998 p38, new short engine, and very pleased to be here. Live in the wilds of Wales near Brecon
Click to expand...

Petrol? 4.0 or 4.6? LPG fitted? Or Diesel?

P38 are very fussy about battery condition. Even if battery seems ok, they often cause all sorts of issues. Have you tried jump start? (the right procedure from the handbook must be followed for safety). If is starts off a jump then it points to battery.

Any burning smell from the under bonnet fuse box?

Is it still on sloping ground?
 
Petrol/lpg but lpg disconnected, havent tried jump start, but will do. Managed to run back onto less hilly terrain, but still sloping. No burning smell. Am charging battery, but it was reading 12.6 before I started.

Aerial behind back seat, driver side disconnected so I use key. I tried using key fob 4 times but alarm went off after 2.
 
Starter motor or solenoid or relay if you do not have any messages showing I prefer not to be a detective . So please please give as much info as possible for help!
 
Thanks guys, latest for the petrol 4.0 1998

Swapped relays around, checked all fuses, Engine check light stays on, can hear relay click, and fuel pump running. Have tried jump start,----zilch

Can I check the starter motor by jumping something in fuse box, and if so how.

Sorry but I'm no expert, car has new short engine and two new air bags, one in front, one at rear. Have been running in and done 350 miles without any problems.
 
It is only a punt that a re-sync will do the trick, but most non starting issues on the P38 are caused by the two units losing their marbles....especially the Petrol models

A Syncmate will cost you between £80-100 and *could* solve the issue, then again it might not, and that is money gone.

If you can stretch to a BBS Nanocom Evo or even further to the Faultmate Extreme (I am sure the Bearmach Hawkeye can do it too - best check) and you live in the Wilds of Wales and you intend to keep the car for a while, a full fat diagnostic device would be worth it....not only will it resync the BeCM and Engine ECU, but also help diagnose most other things too....

Being in the middle of nowhere with a 2 ton lump that refuses to do anything, and no one around who can lend a hand by loaning one to you, could be a good idea.

Datatek and Wammers are damn good at giving diagnostic tests....when they raise from their slumber they may be able to help diagnose further.
 
If you plan on keeping the car and do some DIY repairs, get yourself a Nanocom EVO, save you a fortune in the long run.
I know nowt about the petrol P38 but it does sound like loss of sync.
 
If its clicking would that not indicate that there talking to each other?and that it's a relay or starter solenoid . It's when it's totally dead or endless cranking and not starting that they are not communicating ?
 
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