P38A P1592 rough road signal implausible

pwood999 · May 21, 2021

Given the price, it might be worth an email to Wabco ?

Also open it up & look for bad joints or water ingress, after all it is located below the heater inlet air vents that are known leak points.

kermit_rr · May 21, 2021

Already opened it up it looks like new :/
No harm in emailing i guess!!

Grrrrrr · May 21, 2021

pwood999 said:
Given the price, it might be worth an email to Wabco ?

Also open it up & look for bad joints or water ingress, after all it is located below the heater inlet air vents that are known leak points.

I doubt there's anyone left who understands it but you can try.

I wish @martyuk was around. He's found various faults with the WABCO ECUs over the years but also with what the Nanocom reports on it.

kermit_rr · May 24, 2021

Digging through the docs again, the rough road volts is supposed to be continually changing under normal operation, so that's ruled out as a problem!!

kermit_rr · May 25, 2021

I'm starting to think there is no problem as such.
I think I have a bad sensor/connection, given the wheel bearings appear to be OK
I think the fact nanocom reports 'rough road status' as active, is untrue/programmatic mistake

tomcat59alan · May 25, 2021

kermit_rr said:
I'm starting to think there is no problem as such.
I think I have a bad sensor/connection, given the wheel bearings appear to be OK
I think the fact nanocom reports 'rough road status' as active, is untrue/programmatic mistake

Have you asked BBS?there may be something on the forum.

kermit_rr · May 25, 2021

something to note...

tomcat59alan said:
Have you asked BBS?there may be something on the forum.

Good plan, I've not!!

tomcat59alan · May 25, 2021

kermit_rr said:
something to note...
Good plan, I've not!!

I guess you realized I meant the BBS forum.

pwood999 · May 25, 2021

Also ask over on https://www.rangerovers.net/forums/range-rover-mark-ii-p38.7/
Might be someone there that knows ?

kermit_rr · May 28, 2021

ordered a used wabco D, alleged tested working OK no faults
not receiving signal from one of the wheels and as a result giving the 'short to another sensor' error
FFS didn't need this argument

300bhp/ton · Oct 22, 2021

Did you get any further with this?

300bhp/ton · Oct 22, 2021

pwood999 said:
Check the front hub ball joints & sensor gaps before you buy new sensors. If gap is too large, or ball joints are loose it can cause sensor problems.

Hi, which ball joints are you referring too? And how would they impact the sensors?

Also, how can you check/gap the sensors? Thanks.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2021

300bhp/ton said:
Did you get any further with this?

Not really, not doing anything now until i get this replacement modulator fitted.
I've got a new sensor to put in the hub, but I'm not convinced that will resolve the problem, though i suppose it could simply be dirty, as it only produces an error <1mph with foot on the brake

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2021

300bhp/ton said:
Hi, which ball joints are you referring too? And how would they impact the sensors?

Also, how can you check/gap the sensors? Thanks.

I'm guessing the front hub ball joint.

tomcat59alan · Oct 22, 2021

kermit_rr said:
Not really, not doing anything now until i get this replacement modulator fitted.
I've got a new sensor to put in the hub, but I'm not convinced that will resolve the problem, though i suppose it could simply be dirty, as it only produces an error <1mph with foot on the brake

What's the condition of the reluctor ring like? The X type had a problem due to to the ring being so rusty and closing the gaps between the teeth.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2021

tomcat59alan said:
What's the condition of the reluctor ring like? The X type had a problem due to to the ring being so rusty and closing the gaps between the teeth.

No clue how you get to see it

without taking the sensor out, which i can't do without destroying it, which i don't want to do

tomcat59alan · Oct 22, 2021

kermit_rr said:
No clue how you get to see it without taking the sensor out, which i can't do without destroying it, which i don't want to do

Don't think you can mate.

it has a cover over it. That's why I cut the cover to allow the sensor to stay in place when removing the swivel housing.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2021

tomcat59alan said:
Don't think you can mate. it has a cover over it. That's why I cut the cover to allow the sensor to stay in place when removing the swivel housing.

wheres the cover? something i can do 'on vehicle'?

Datatek · Oct 22, 2021

Grrrrrr said:
They are hall-effect so as each tooth passes uou get a pulse which shows on an oscilloscope as a square wave. However, wire is wire. Stick an old style bulb with a piece of wire to attach it +V and the other end through the wire and to ground and it should light ip inless there is a break. Connector sounds like a good place to stick a wire in.

the ABS sensors are NOT Hall Effect, they are a simple wire coil wound round a soft iron core, I can post a photo if you want evidence.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2021

Datatek said:
the ABS sensors are NOT Hall Effect, they are a simple wire coil wound round a soft iron core, I can post a photo if you want evidence.

What's the correct way to test/read output with a dvm?

P38A P1592 rough road signal implausible

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