Freelander 1 P0480 error code - fans not working - where is sensor and relay???

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Arnodafe72 said:
Couldn't get to the car last night after work - going tonight hopefully, but n the morning i will definitely get to it. Just thought i would mention it as snowscooter oil might be thicker....its -20C here again so i need to warm the engine aswell before i begin. Is it worth siphoning out the petrol and putting new fresh petrol in ?
Click to expand...
Before attempting anything so drastic, check to see if the pump runs when the ignition is turned on, and check for fuel flow at the fuel rail.
If there's no fuel being delivered, then pop the pump cover up and check the voltage at the pump supply wires. If there's voltage and the pump doesn't run, then the pump is dead.

It's also sensible to only keep enough petrol in a vehicle that can be used in 3 months, as after that time it'll degrade below the minimum performance levels required to pass any tests.
 
Nodge68 said:
Before attempting anything so drastic, check to see if the pump runs when the ignition is turned on, and check for fuel flow at the fuel rail.
If there's no fuel being delivered, then pop the pump cover up and check the voltage at the pump supply wires. If there's voltage and the pump doesn't run, then the pump is dead.

It's also sensible to only keep enough petrol in a vehicle that can be used in 3 months, as after that time it'll degrade below the minimum performance levels required to pass any tests.
Click to expand...
I'll be back with more info tomorrow at the latest
 
Nodge68 said:
Before attempting anything so drastic, check to see if the pump runs when the ignition is turned on, and check for fuel flow at the fuel rail.
If there's no fuel being delivered, then pop the pump cover up and check the voltage at the pump supply wires. If there's voltage and the pump doesn't run, then the pump is dead.

It's also sensible to only keep enough petrol in a vehicle that can be used in 3 months, as after that time it'll degrade below the minimum performance levels required to pass any tests.
Click to expand...
Moved the back seats and uncovered the fuel pump - haven't checked power or anything yet but the pump does sound when key is on first position. Seems like power is being delivered and the pump is trying to work. Gonna ask for help to check fuel flow at the fuel rail. - fuel line there seems to have a red plastic connector which i'm not sure how it detaches. Id there a valve on the rail you can press to see pressure/flow ?
What next - fuel filter ? Ice prop ? Gonna try to get it inside and warm up the whole car, not just the engine as with the engine heater. It s -24C tomorrow which doesn't help. See how it goes....
 
Arnodafe72 said:
I'll be back with more info tomorrow at the latest
Click to expand...
Car is in warm garage now, so an ice prop will dissapear after a day.Also, is it true that if you get in the car, lock the doors with the key fob then turn key to first position - if the doors unlock it means the inertia switch is tripped? Cheers ! More later
 
Nodge68 said:
Before attempting anything so drastic, check to see if the pump runs when the ignition is turned on, and check for fuel flow at the fuel rail.
If there's no fuel being delivered, then pop the pump cover up and check the voltage at the pump supply wires. If there's voltage and the pump doesn't run, then the pump is dead.

It's also sensible to only keep enough petrol in a vehicle that can be used in 3 months, as after that time it'll degrade below the minimum performance levels required to pass any tests.
Click to expand...
Yeah, no fuel at fuel rail when disconnected! Also, fuel relat has power and the relat itself has continuity etc .
Connector at fuel pump has 4 wires - 2 up, 2 down. The down have constant 12v power and seems to be related to the fuel metre on the dash. The top 2 though - one wire has 12v power but for only 1 to 2 secs ! Is that how it is supposed to work and why you should only hear the motor in the pump whirring for the same interval ? Or is something wrong there ?
We are going to try to drive the pump directly with an external battery to see if it will engage. If it doesn't run we'll take it out and check it. Please let ne know what you think - still haven't ruled out a problem with the inertia switch. Yours greatfully, arnodafe72
 
Arnodafe72 said:
The top 2 though - one wire has 12v power but for only 1 to 2 secs ! Is that how it is supposed to work and why you should only hear the motor in the pump whirring for the same interval ?
Click to expand...

2 wires are for the fuel gauge, the other 2 are for the pump.
The pump only runs for a short time when the ignition is first turned on to prime the system. However once engine has started, the ECM powers the pump all the time.
 
Nodge68 said:
2 wires are for the fuel gauge, the other 2 are for the pump.
The pump only runs for a short time when the ignition is first turned on to prime the system. However once engine has started, the ECM powers the pump all the time.
Click to expand...
Ok - don't think we're getting it all the time on crank. Have ordered a ew pump but will take two weeks. Think the motor on pump is gone now as we no longer hear it anymore. If we're not getting constant power on pump at crank only on prime - where should we look? Pump relay good, power at relay good . Can you bypass the inertia switch ? Cheers man !
 
Nodge68 said:
2 wires are for the fuel gauge, the other 2 are for the pump.
The pump only runs for a short time when the ignition is first turned on to prime the system. However once engine has started, the ECM powers the pump all the time.
Click to expand...
On ignition the pump primes but when the pump is powered directly from a second battery, there is no sound or activity - have had fule line going to a plastic bottle at the rail. Is it strange that it primes but doesn't run ?
 
Took pump out after checking today - constant 12v to pump on krank. Took apart the pump and tried to power motor - nothing. Dead. Wait for new pump to arrive. Also really black petrol in pump - had original seal on car frame so it seems that it has never been changed since 2005. Petrol in tank looks clean but have taken out 5L and poured it through a filter. Litte black in filter only. Maybe drain tank , clean then add back all the filtered petrol before the part comes within 2 weeks !
 
Nodge68 said:
2 wires are for the fuel gauge, the other 2 are for the pump.
The pump only runs for a short time when the ignition is first turned on to prime the system. However once engine has started, the ECM powers the pump all the time.
Click to expand...
Going to pick up the fuel pump now - do i have to do anything specific before i start the car ? Bleed fuel lines ? Something special with the pump ? Prime 4 times etc ? Please let me know what you think - cheers man !
 
The fuel system is self bleeding, so just try starting the engine, which will bleed the air out.
Make sure you get the correct pump, as there are 2 different designs, it's not the pump but the integrated fuel level sensor, which altered how it worked, in 2001 I think.
 
andyfreelandy said:
The fuel gauge resistance was reversed between non facelift and facelift so if the wrong pump is fitted your fuel gauge works backwards !!
Click to expand...

I couldn't remember the year, only that the mother in law had a new pump put in my old V6, after which the fuel gauge worked in reverse. :eek:

I actually fixed it by swapped the level sensor from her old pump (the person that changed it left it in the boot), which solved the problem. :)
 
Nodge68 said:
I couldn't remember the year, only that the mother in law had a new pump put in my old V6, after which the fuel gauge worked in reverse. :eek:

I actually fixed it by swapped the level sensor from her old pump (the person that changed it left it in the boot), which solved the problem. :)
Click to expand...
Yeah, have the correct matching part number as i realised myself that the one i ordered from UK was wrong - wanted the Bearmach but they don't do the one i need, so i got one in the end from Germany which arrived quickly since time was lost to cancelling the first one i ordered. Am keeping the old pump for parts - have taken the metre off already seeing how everything goes together. - haven't opened the delivery box yet as i'm home late - gonna do it with a clear head tomorrow. I'll post how i get on . NB. The part i needed is for all Freelanders after 2000/2001 apparently, not just the Facelift (as far as i know). Even my local car parts shop aswell as Ebay gave me thumbs up for the older wrong part. Gotta keep your eyes open - thanks for letting me know the difference - they look identical
 
Nodge68 said:
I couldn't remember the year, only that the mother in law had a new pump put in my old V6, after which the fuel gauge worked in reverse. :eek:

I actually fixed it by swapped the level sensor from her old pump (the person that changed it left it in the boot), which solved the problem. :)
Click to expand...
You're right - thought the petrol gauge didn't read enough then filled the tank - meter shows empty - f@ck ! Which prts dis you change ? The float , the part its connected to and the two wires which go to the top ? The two blue wires or ? Do you have a pic ?
 
Arnodafe72 said:
Which prts dis you change ? The float , the part its connected to and the two wires which go to the top ? The two blue wires or ? Do you have a pic
Click to expand...

I swapped the whole level sensor unit, which simply unclipped from the main body.

No pictures unfortunately.
 
Did you cut any wires ? Or change the whole segment with wires connected to the top white part ? Then you would have to disconnect the inner fuel line and re-attach ? The two blue wires going to the float circuit board are soldered - how did you avoid wiring re-do ? Thanks !
 
It was about a decade ago now, and the old grey matter isn't as good as it was. I have a feeling I soldered the old unit into the new puml. I don't remember it being a difficult job, as I'd have remembered better if it was.
 
Nodge68 said:
It was about a decade ago now, and the old grey matter isn't as good as it was. I have a feeling I soldered the old unit into the new puml. I don't remember it being a difficult job, as I'd have remembered better if it was.
Click to expand...
Sounds right - just switching the wires won't work as its the resistance mechanism in rhe circuit board. Funny they didn't pick it out - even from Rimmer Bros in UK who looked it up with my VIN number and all the details - same pump code , no distinctions or special points ...... connecting new chip in place seems best! This was my part code : WFX000210.
Phew .....what the f.....
 
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