Ooops, Lost me Landy ... :(

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cas62 said:
Once you've got it dry try a product called Fertan on the rust. It stops it going further until you can he it sorted properly. I've used it on both my Defenders with excellent results. Get it on fleabay.
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Yeah, I have some of that somewhere .. well, IIRC it's Kurust I have, but it's probably old enough to have evolved now I reckon .. ;)
 
cas62 said:
Once you've got it dry try a product called Fertan on the rust. It stops it going further until you can he it sorted properly. I've used it on both my Defenders with excellent results. Get it on fleabay.
Click to expand...


Aye I'll vouch for Fertan. I've been using it quite a lot in my disco rebuild http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/jc-s-discovery-300tdi-restoration-234964.html

Strangely enough one of the instructions for Fertan is that when you've applied it is to mist a bit of water over it to help it creep into all the nooks and crannies. Although I guess you'll be able to skip that step, Paul! ;)



OK, OK, I promise that's the last **** take! :p:D
 
great news of the landies recovery paul,
but I read of your own mate.
I read of your enthuisiasm,
but please take care with your chest/lungs,
as then are harder to replace...

the use of dehumidifier working wonders is news that 2nd hand caravan sellers use in drying out "used" caravans too ;)
 
If I were in your position I would concentrate on getting the running gear sorted first as things may start rusting internally.
1. Make sure the intake tract/intercooler/air filter is clear.
2. Pull the glowplugs.
3. Remove serpentine belt (To stop alternator working while sorting wiring and power steering pump until oils changed)
3. Drop/replace the oil+filter (use cheap stuff to flushing).
4. Sort out a clean remote fuel source to FIP.
5. Hotwire the FIP fuel solenoid.
6. Give it a crank (use jump leads on starter) to clear the cylinders (via glowplug holes).
7. Refit plugs and try for a start.
8. If it starts keep an eye on temperature as you will have no temp gauge or water pump.
9. Once warmed up stop it drop the oil and filter again.
10. Drop gearbox and transfer oils, fill with cheap stuff
11. Restart try a short drive (watch temperature)
12. Stop and drain/flush gearboxes.

Others may have a different sequence but try and get the expensive bits (engine / G Boxes) protected with fresh oils while sorting the rest in slow time.
 
Cheers guys .. loving the ****takes actually, I _can_ laugh at them, could have been so different! ;)

Yeah, my chest is getting better by the hour. Been taking the tablets and resting .. amazing how only a little effort screws me up, yet when we were recovering the Disco I was in the water adn having to work very hard, in a wetsuit, for maybe 4 hours. OK, cold, but I guess full of adrenaline .. :)

Thanks for the checklist K .. dropping all the oils tomorrow, forgot about PS pump, thanks.

You make a good point about doing the engines and boxes first .. I've been concentrating on the stench!!
 
I have just found this thread and had to read it through in one go. Very impressed that Paul has shared his frightening experience, many would have kept it to themselves. It is a lesson to inexperienced 4x4 drivers such as my self. Also really hastening to hear of all the offers to help with recovery and repair. The entire story including some of the jokes should feature in a well known international magazine,a far more interesting rebuild than the recent Sealy sponsored one. Glad both Paul and disco are recovered. Well done to all involved in rescue and recovery
 
Another couple of thoughts, I assume you have wading plugs fitted, make sure you remove them, if you remove the timing belt one and it is dry you have either been lucky or it has drained out again, worth trying to check if it is clean in there and not full of silt. Probably worth trying to flush it out with something to ensure the belt wont jump if it is full of crud, I would also suggest changing belt/rollers as you may have water in the bearings leading to early belt failure. Secondly FIP may be full of water as there is a vent hole in the case on the underside of the diaphragm, may be worth pulling the diaphragm to check and flushing the FIP internals with fuel before attempting start.
 
Cheers for that K, added to my list. :)

Just been out to check the humidifier .. almost full ..

Juliet reckons it'll be drawing moisture from outside as well now, maybe. I reckon I'll keep it going though, I reckon it'll draw more moisture out of the leccy which might help.

Having trouble getting the wading plugs out but think they're made of cheese, a drill might be employed shortly, and a tap to clean the threads out.
 
[MAP][/MAP]
Paul D said:
Cheers for that K, added to my list. :)

Just been out to check the humidifier .. almost full ..

Juliet reckons it'll be drawing moisture from outside as well now, maybe. I reckon I'll keep it going though, I reckon it'll draw more moisture out of the leccy which might help.
Click to expand...

I've used one in a car that hadn't been submerged just normal use but the windows kept steaming up and I got several dehumidifier tank fulls out of that so I reckon you still have a way to go yet.
As I said earlier if you can put a small heat source/radiator in there it really helps.
 
Pikey said:
Paul as said in my PM i have a disco gearbox sitting in the workshop that I'm happy to donate, if you need it.
Click to expand...

Cheers mate. Don't think it'll need it actually .. the oil looks good, but I'll certainly bear it in mind!

Can hardly believe the generosity on here .. :)

And Jam1, we've put a small oil filled radiator from the caravan in .. Just gonna leave it all running till Saturday morning now, checking it every so often.

Waiting for seats to drain, but they're outside and going slowly. Tomorrow afternoon I'm thinking of putting the seats in the rear of the Disco, loosely and seeing if the humidifier will work it's magic there too .. at the moment it isn't raining, though a bit windy, so I reckon fresh air should work well.
 
Right .. first time I've fettled a submerged engine ..

Oils out, and from gearbox and transfer .. but what do I do now?

I haven't yet done the top end, or turned the motor over, so I was thinking fill the engine with cheap oil, remove the glow plugs and/or fuel injectors, the acc belt and turn just the engine over by hand to try and expel any water in any oilways/valve train etc and force it out past the turbo .. or would I be better removing all the pipework turbo and all? Once I've turned it over enough, drain the oil, refill with clean and leave till the electrics/battery etc are working before trying to start it up.

Similarly, I was wondering about the gearboxes .. they're drained (videos to follow) but what about re-filling them? I reckon to refill them, turn over by hand again, wheels off the ground etc, drain and refill with new clean oil.

Is this too much?

Now they're all drained would it be ok to just leave it draining, and start up at the weekend after a single refill?

I also thought of flushing oil, but this really needs to be used when the engine's hot, so probably not much use.
 
rocker cover off

Glow plugs out

Air intake disconnected

Turn over.

check valves and rocker arms are moving correctly

then fill bores with light oil to stop any rust from forming in the bores until your ready to try turning it over on the starter. Wouldn't hurt to pour oil over all rockers etc. There's bound to be some water sitting in the nooks and crannies when the rocker cover comes off.
 
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Paul D said:
Right .. first time I've fettled a submerged engine ..

Oils out, and from gearbox and transfer .. but what do I do now?

I haven't yet done the top end, or turned the motor over, so I was thinking fill the engine with cheap oil, remove the glow plugs and/or fuel injectors, the acc belt and turn just the engine over by hand to try and expel any water in any oilways/valve train etc and force it out past the turbo .. or would I be better removing all the pipework turbo and all? Once I've turned it over enough, drain the oil, refill with clean and leave till the electrics/battery etc are working before trying to start it up.

Similarly, I was wondering about the gearboxes .. they're drained (videos to follow) but what about re-filling them? I reckon to refill them, turn over by hand again, wheels off the ground etc, drain and refill with new clean oil.

Is this too much?

Now they're all drained would it be ok to just leave it draining, and start up at the weekend after a single refill?

I also thought of flushing oil, but this really needs to be used when the engine's hot, so probably not much use.
Click to expand...

use diesel fuel and a filter and pull both furl injectors and glow plugs turn it over until batteries dead, or keep on a charger do it a bunch of times, this way it will help clean the bottom end and all the oil ways . They drain and change filter and use a light 5-10 weightoil and do the same thing again, then change again to good oil and filter. Lets hope your main and rod bearing are not toasted, but only time will show that. Or can you run the oil pump by hand
 
Pikey said:
rocker cover off

Glow plugs out

Air intake disconnected

Turn over.

check valves and rocker arms are moving correctly

then fill bores with light oil to stop any rust from forming in the bores until your ready to try turning it over on the starter. Wouldn't hurt to pour oil over all rockers etc. There's bound to be some water sitting in the nooks and crannies when the rocker cover comes off.
Click to expand...

Cheers, yeah, I figured taking rocker off to check, Gonna leave till tomorrow when it's light, so just goona drop some oil into them anyway, engine oil, ATF for gearbox and EP for transfer .. I have some in the shed .. :)
 
i've no experience with this, but i'll have a go :D

i'd take the glows out, rocker cover off and turn it over by hand to get rid/check for water.

If happy, then drain engine, all boxes and tank. loosen injectors and pump em. wd-40 the **** out of everything in the engine bay including all leccies. Dry leccy plugs off when waiting for the oil to go.

Then i'd just replace oils, filters and try to start it expecting to replace the oils again soon if they need it.

If it goes, then drain the cooling system and flush the rad and heater matrix out, also the heater box. Then go around cleaning up/silicon grease leccies/fuses and copper grease the usual.

Also hubs and stuff.
 
Thor1950 said:
use diesel fuel and a filter and pull both furl injectors and glow plugs turn it over until batteries dead, or keep on a charger do it a bunch of times, this way it will help clean the bottom end and all the oil ways . They drain and change filter and use a light 5-10 weightoil and do the same thing again, then change again to good oil and filter. Lets hope your main and rod bearing are not toasted, but only time will show that. Or can you run the oil pump by hand
Click to expand...

Thanks but not yet I don't think, I haven't 'done' the diesel tank or anything in the engine bay other than removing the battery .. I'm gonna use cheap 20w50 multigrade (cheapest available at supermarket) for flushing then 'real' oils at the end.

Mind, I quite like the idea of using diesel to flush through initially, I have a tank full available, after all, though it may be contaminated with water .. ;)

Dunno about the oil pump ..
 
trax said:
i've no experience with this, but i'll have a go :D

i'd take the glows out, rocker cover off and turn it over by hand to get rid/check for water.

If happy, then drain engine, all boxes and tank. loosen injectors and pump em. wd-40 the **** out of everything in the engine bay including all leccies. Dry leccy plugs off when waiting for the oil to go.

Then i'd just replace oils, filters and try to start it expecting to replace the oils again soon if they need it.

If it goes, then drain the cooling system and flush the rad and heater matrix out, also the heater box. Then go around cleaning up/silicon grease leccies/fuses and copper grease the usual.

Also hubs and stuff.
Click to expand...

It's only the engine/gearboxes that 'worry' me, but worry is maybe the wrong word! I don't have a problem at all with diffs and wheels and stuff that can be removed easily .. just don't want to screw a great engine up!

Hadn't thought about the cooling system yet .. cheers!

I reckon, although we know the brakes work up and down a ramp and along a stream bed, that I'll probably have to bleed them and the clutch system too.
 
Paul D said:
It's only the engine/gearboxes that 'worry' me, but worry is maybe the wrong word! I don't have a problem at all with diffs and wheels and stuff that can be removed easily .. just don't want to screw a great engine up!

Hadn't thought about the cooling system yet .. cheers!

I reckon, although we know the brakes work up and down a ramp and along a stream bed, that I'll probably have to bleed them and the clutch system too.
Click to expand...

be careful, but i wouldn't worry to much. They can take a bunch of abuse.
 
Some more videos of draining the engine and gearboxes ..

Boring as watching an engine drain, but wtf, I was surprised at the amount of water in there! Dunno why, it was under water from Tuesday to Thursday ..

Camera doesn't pick it up, but the colours were quite nice, considering, the stink was awful!

Engine

Gearbox1

Gearbox2

Transfer

Hope someone enjoys .. ;)
 
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