Ongoing work

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Confused now, stripped the rear hub down, removed 1 oil seal, 2 inner races & bearings and a smaller seal.

Replacement kit comes with 3 oil seals ( all the same size, 2 are slightly different )...where the fook do they go? The 2nd smaller seal isn't in the kit either.., checked the numbers and they're all correct for the kit.

3 oil seals are:

FTC4785 ( i removed this one from the inner side of the hub )
RTC3511
FRC8222

any ideas whilst i google it?
 
PaulWilde said:
FTC4785 ( i removed this one from the inner side of the hub )
RTC3511
FRC8222
Click to expand...

think i worked it out, RTC3511 replaces the older seal of FTC 4785, this one sits up against the back of the brake housing, FRC8222 sits on the outside...thing is, i didn't remove this one as it wasn't there to start with :cool:

All sorted now, driven around today, wheel fine, no visible signs of oil or play atm, so good result, i would supply some pics but the camera ran out of batteries after 4 pics :(


Track rod ends tonight :D
 
Fook me, these buggers are tight!

On ramps, wheels nice n straight, removed the old track rod ends ( took a measurement first ) then copper slipped the new ones and in they went....

and now they're not going any further, i need about to reduce the whole length about another 10mm but these are proving to be the most stubborn mofo's i've ever seen. Already totalled a pair of mole grips using them to grip the track rod with a bar on the end and using another bar on the rod ends to tighten.

Any reason why they should be so damn tight? The thread is the same length, but as I'm tightening, the rod itself is getting hot, which usually means the metal is under alot of stress...

Gonna be a long night me thinks :(
 
By the sounds of it mate its just rust built up , what was the threads like on the old ones when u took em out

what ya could do is cut several lines on the threads of your old joints and use them as thread cleaners :) .
 
Last edited:
:confused:Not had this myself,the last one iput onscrewed in by hand!Are you sure threads are the same,not imperial etc?Im sure you will have cleaned out the threads fully.
 
Check the slot is clean for its full depth. Get the old ball joint, cut four hacksaw slots lengthways at 90degrees to each other and use it as a thread chaser.
 
i had the same sort of problem when i replaced the track rod ends on my landy, it wasnt until i put then side by side that i saw that the new ones were about 25mm longer than the old ones i had taken out!!!!!
 
I'm pretty certain they're the same length, like has been said it could be old rust building up in the threads of the track rod.

I'll whip em off and give it a good clean inside before attempting it again

cheers
 
i managed to get one of them out and replace with a good old one, but the tracking is now out, i'll have to pick up a new rod as the other one isn't going to come out now.

Chopped 10mm off the new drag link end and it took 10 minutes to fit, typical ;)

Why on earth would they make them 10mm longer though? Part numbers are correct from what i can tell

RTC5869
RTC5870


Now removing the towbar, welding was done in the area of the tow bar on the advisory ( within 30cm ) but after closer inspection there are a few more holes appeared.

Oh and broke my wing mirror reversing in the garage :(

PAS pump is leaking all over the place from what i can tell, it's the seal on the output shaft, no doubt it'll fail on that.
 
:(Sounds like ya got a battle on up there.The only reason i can see for the longer TREs is that the latest rods have a longer threaded section.Part of LRs well known policy of constant improvement perhaps:D.If so the new rod will sort it.Best of luck:)
 
Took a few pics of the rear area and a few rust areas when i removed the tow bar:

As i removed the first 2 bolts that hold the towbar plate to the rear xmember, the third was a little rusted, pic shows the towbar plate bent outwards


NS facing rearwards


NS again facing rearwards, this also shows the corner of the exhaust mounting bracket ( the rubber attaches to this )


OS near wiring loom, not a real issue, just slightly oversized holes where the rust has set in.


This area was welded up from the last advisory on the MOT


Some of the xmember rusted onto the towbar plate, guess it just didn't want to let go ;)


After removal of the towbar plate, i cleaned up the hole left over, not much to weld to either side really and shows how far in the rust has set.


Another pic of the hole left after the towbar plate removal. On closer inspection, the actual metal has started to expand in the sense that it looks like the edge of a well worn book


Looking across at NS, top of the xmember


Looking across at NS



Overall it looks abit fooked, the areas on the last MOT advisory have been taken care of ( before i got her ) but given the state of the holes it could fail on structural integrity, especially on the NS.
 
Last edited:
Tbh Steve if it pass's the mot tomorrow then i'll replace the the whole thing In the future, if not then it'll be a welding job to pass I reackon.
 
Got an hour before the MOT, just done some preliminary checks, i can't get the wipers to sit lower on the screen via turning them off, but i can manually push them back to their position.

Wish me luck :D
 
storm99 said:
Bet you cant beat 19 failure points and 9 advisorys...

not that you'd want to i suspect...:D
Click to expand...

No not that bad!

Oki 6 failures and 3 advisories. 2 of the failures were down to me, ie i broke the mirror reversing in the garage last night and didnt tighten up 2 of the clips on the rear track rod, although it ain't going no where for sure!

To sum up, Failures:

001 - Offside Obligatory mirror seriously damaged affecting rear view.

002 - Power steering components leaking from a failed Joint

003 - (to box) Ball joint has excessive play

004 - Steering retaining device insecure

005 - Nearside vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting strength within 30cm of the body mountings

006 - Nearside headlamp too low

Advisories:

007 - Offside seat belt damaged but webbing not significantly weakened

008 - Rear shock has slightly worn rubber bush

009 - Steering damper bush worn/front horse shoe bushes slight play/rear crossmember corrosion.



Just looking into parts atm, with regards to the Ball joint ( steering ) it's whether to just replace the whole drop arm or use one of those kits for repair, cost of stripping it down, i may as well just replace it with a new one ( swivel joint included ofc ).

Seal kit for the bottom of the PAS where the drop arm bolts to, easy to do?

Bit of welding, new mirror, and parts above should have it sorted till next year :D
 
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