Ongoing work

123-eddy09 said:

Take it orf and put it on you rear door then.

Click to expand...

Can't do that, need the back door for me jerry cans

Just got a copy of the advisory for the last MOT ( next one due soon )

Date of test:
29/09/2009

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
177,461 Miles

Test number:
733082279263

Test station name:
SILVEY BROTHERS LIMITED

Test station number:
77304

Test station telephone number:
01452740227

Test class:
IV

Test expiry date:
12/10/2010

Advisory Notice issued

Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly chafed (3.6.B.2c)

Offside drop arm Ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)

Nearside Front front Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)

Nearside Front rear Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)

Front Power steering pipe(s) or hose(s) has slight seepage from a component (2.3.1b)

Centre Rear not significantly Vehicle structure slightly corroded within 30cm of towbar mounting (6.6.6)

Nearside Rear Vehicle structure slightly corroded within 30cm of towbar mounting (6.6.6)

Oil leak

Click to expand...

SPoke with the previous owner and he said all work had been done except the track rod ends, but i'll give it a good look over in the next few weeks and remedy any that need doing.

Just picked up some rubber bungs for the bonnet mounted wheel, £7.50 from the local Landy place, will fit later.

A simple job this one, after fitting the wheel bracket on the bonnet it was time to drill n bolt the rubber bungs in place for the wheel to rest on.

Marked out 4 holes apprx 30cm from the centre of the bracket and drilled through, a spot of red oxide paint on the holes and bolted the rubbers with lock nuts, job done

PaulWilde said:

Rather than keep starting a thread about wtf this does or how do i do that and telling you what i did, thought i'd bung it all into one thread, nice n simples

List of things to do/done ( in no particular order )


Replace Injectors ( done )
Remove standard fan and replace with an electric one
Replace front bumper
Try and panel bash front headlight surround ( done )
Replace fuel pump ( done )
Investigate and fix leak in PAS area ( see Fix Axle Leak )
Remove Steering guard ( done )
Fix/replace screen wash pump ( done )
Re do the dash with bits n bobs ( ongoing )
Fit 2 6x9 speakers in the rear somewhere ( done )
Fit a clock
Investigate and fix clunking sound on quick release of clutch ( done )
Replace Sump plug washer ( done )
Remove, investigate & fix oil leak from Timing cover ( awaiting parts )
Replace air filter ( done )
Replace track rod ends
Replace glow plugs ( done )
Fit a cup holder somewhere
Remove tow bar
Fix front Axle leak
Fit Spotlights to front Bullbar ( done )
Investigate and remedy front near side light problem ( done )
Move spare wheel to front bonnet ( done )
Carpet Rear ( done )
Fit storage box's ( done )
Check MOT advisory, repair/fix whats necessary

Click to expand...

Updated

Today/tonights work will be to fit the electric fan i purchased from the scrappy. It was from a Toledo ( VW? ) and has 2 fans, 1 large and one slightly smaller which will work well for the TDi conversion later on, but for now i'm going to rig it up to get a good idea on size etc.

The shroud was a good fit for the size of the radiator atm but will need some ' work ' doing to it to get it past the airfilter box etc.

It's been a busy week or so, the Landy has taken a back seat where work is concerned, so after removing the fellow family members to girlfriends and friends home's it was time to get down to getting dirty

On the list tonight was to relocate the bonnet release catch after not being able to open the bonnet due to the weight of the wheel not allowing the spring to release. After spending an hour or so looking for a suitable location on the outside which was within reach of the locking mechanism, i took an easy route.
I removed the cable completely and cut the top of the grille off so i could stick my hand underneath and just pull the release, simple & effective.


Second on the list was to fit an electric fan which i picked up some time ago.
The fan was from a Seat Toledo, a twin set up with a slightly smaller fan on one side. Taking some measurements at the scrappy this one was just about the same size as the gap behind the rad, so with some bits trimmed off here and there, the shroud was fitted.




Using small self tappers i was able to screw into the rad surround at the top and use some cable ties at the bottom to secure to the original lugs for the cowling.

Thinking ahead slightly, I'm removing the bullbars so the spot lights at the moment are obsolete ( as they're attached ) so i used the wiring that i had installed for that ( with relay & switch ) and soldered & heatshrinked all connectors and used the original plugs for the fans as well:




The second pic shows abit of gaffer tape, although the joins are heatshrinked, no job on a Landy should be complete without gaffer tape being used

Fans fitted:



and the handy little switch on the top of the dash for ease of use:



and yes i will get around to screwing the dash back together one day....

Paul,Followed yr posts for some time.Your beloved looks in great shape for age and lovingly looked after.Wife is pleasant too!All the best for your trip,ignore the doubters.Just been to London in my2.5TDno probs atall and had over 80 on the motorway.Been to Bristol towing livestock trailer again no prob went like a train.Love the fans,huge savings on kenlowes which I didnt find easy tofit either!Do you get good mileage on veg oil.Iam thinking of trying it myself.

Turboman said:

Paul,Followed yr posts for some time.Your beloved looks in great shape for age and lovingly looked after.Wife is pleasant too!All the best for your trip,ignore the doubters.Just been to London in my2.5TDno probs atall and had over 80 on the motorway.Been to Bristol towing livestock trailer again no prob went like a train.Love the fans,huge savings on kenlowes which I didnt find easy tofit either!Do you get good mileage on veg oil.Iam thinking of trying it myself.

Click to expand...

Cheers Turboman

The veg oil question, tbh i don't know if there is a major difference in mpg, i reackon on motorways i get 27mpg, in town it's less, but the cost of the oil ( free ) against diesel grabs it for me.

I use either fresh ( a couple of hours work a week for a restaurant gets me 40 litres of fresh ) or used and after a few weeks and several tries i came up with the best way for used.

Used Oil

Grab a drum of used, most places change it every week, anyone who uses it more or has a heavy rotation of oil is best left alone ( kebab houses, takeaways i tend to not use ). Leave the drum to stand for a day or 2, this allows the majority of the crap to sink to the bottom and allows the ' cleaner, thinner of the oil to float higher.

Grab a sieve with fine holes in it, and empty 3/4 of the drum into a clean container. You can either do this again with the 3/4 of sieved oil or tip a small amount into a clean glass container and check it.

If the oil still looks abit dirty or has a white consistancy to it, filter it again into another clean container ( the full amount ).

If you've filtered a few times and you still have a white consistency to the oil, then you'll need to use special filters for that batch, deep frier filters work well with a funnel, but it takes longer. Do NOT use coffee filters unless your happy to sit there and watch it all drip out of the filter...20 litres of oil at a drip every few seconds is mind numbingly boring !!

Filter it all as much as you like and you're happy with it, your looking for a yellow consistency to the oil and no ' bits '.

I work on a 1/3 diesel 2/3 veg oil mix in mine, so 20 litres of diesel and 40 litres apprx of oil, it doesn't have to be exact though, sometimes you'll have a abit more oil, sometimes abit more diesel, don't worry too much.

I've done 3-4k miles on veg oil now with no side effects, my battery is shagged so starting takes a little longer on the key ( warming up the plugs ) but other than that, she runs no different than pure diesel except for the smell which you'll get used to

At the start i told you to only filter 3/4 from a full drum of used, the final quarter will contain the majority of the crap still in the oil and it's not worth trying to filter these out tbh, used oil is free, most establishments will kindly let you take it away as they have to pay to have it removed, so a 1/4 drum loss is minimal.

Filters

I change my fuel filter every 1-2k miles, purely as habit, you can pick them up from Halfords for less than a tenner and it's good practice to do so, how long you leave it is upto you, some peeps leave it for several thousand miles.

Fuel Pump

I changed mine recently ( about 2k ago ), not because i needed to, but because it was part of the service i was doing on the engine and not knowing the history i wasn't aware of when it was last done. Checking the one i removed, i found no issues that i could see with it, so that one will be used as a spare
Some people say the fuel pumps are not upto scratch on the 19J, but it remains to be seen, with a 66/33 mix of oil/diesel i've had no issues so far.
A tip i will say, if you wish to change the pump (£25 from most places ) is to consider an oil change at the same time with the filter, this makes removal and refitting the new pump easier with the engine oil filter out of the way.

A few bits done today, checked all oil levels and topped up where necessary, fixed the reverse light not working, this was due to faulty connections @ the gearbox.

Made up a little cubby box for the centre with a lid from some ply and a stool backrest from work, re housed the speakers, will update these soon though when money permits!





Also got a better pic of the fans fitted



and finally, Dusty my dog looking chilled

A while ago i replaced the dust cap on the rear OS wheel as i had oil seeping out, unfortunately this hasn't solved the issue and the MOT is due in a month's time. Oil in the diff is topped up with minimal loss over the past 2k miles and i'm wondering if a clean up of the area for the MOT will suffice with hopefully an advisory on it if it's spotted.

decisons, decisions....

PaulWilde said:

List of things to do/done ( in no particular order )


Replace Injectors ( done )
Remove standard fan and replace with an electric one ( done )
Replace front bumper
Try and panel bash front headlight surround ( done )
Replace fuel pump ( done )
Investigate and fix leak in PAS area ( see Fix Axle Leak )
Remove Steering guard ( done )
Fix/replace screen wash pump ( done )
Re do the dash with bits n bobs ( ongoing )
Fit 2 6x9 speakers in the rear somewhere ( done )
Fit a clock
Investigate and fix clunking sound on quick release of clutch ( done )
Replace Sump plug washer ( done )
Remove, investigate & fix oil leak from Timing cover ( awaiting parts )
Replace air filter ( done )
Replace track rod ends
Replace glow plugs ( done )
Fit a cup holder somewhere ( done )
Move Spare wheel to Bonnet ( done )
Fit Jerry cans to rear door
Remove tow bar
Fix front Axle leak
Fit Spotlights to front Bullbar ( done )
Investigate and remedy front near side light problem ( done )
Replace Engine
Remedy rear OS oil leak from wheel
Check MOT advisories and rectify
MOT pre check for end of October

Click to expand...

Updated

wow, really great stuff paul!

you might want to investigate the o/s oil leak from wheel, it could be the hub oil seal which could lead to a wheel bearing failing..

hext said:

wow, really great stuff paul!

you might want to investigate the o/s oil leak from wheel, it could be the hub oil seal which could lead to a wheel bearing failing..

Click to expand...

It could be mate, unfortunately i just don't have the time/money this week to sort it before the trip to Newcastle this week

Thanks for the lowdown on the oil.I can smetimes access used oil and at one time some people were buying new oil from the cash and carry.Ithink the price has gone up against diesel now.On my 600 mile trip to London I got 27MPG on pure diesel .I change my filters often but only c.6k.I can get filters £3.50.As my 90 is worked hard in the fields and regular towing I might stay around a50/50dino/veg mix.Enjoy your trip,should be nice and quiet with the carpet and cushions,my main gripe on long trips is the noise.Icant hear 100 watt a side stereo at 70.Ihave got some soundproofing but need to get round to fitting.Ive been to Newcastle last month tho not inLR Loved it!!Bigg Market on Sat.neet is pretty diffrent to the W.Country.Culture shock or wot!

One of those days today, working on the 200Tdi ( see seperate thread ) i was drawn to the ol' girl today after giving her a few days rest after the Newcastle trip.

Charged the battery up last night, but she wasn't starting at all which after a long run on oil i tend to find happens ( not sure why either ).

So spent the afternoon with the wife in the engine bay going through the whole fuel system from the filter which was surprisingly clean.

After replacing it and priming the system she still wasn't firing, so checked the injector pump for fuel, no problems there, so onto the injectors.

Removing an injector and spinning it around and reconnecting, we gave the engine a few turns to check the spray ( WARNING: DONT STAND CLOSE TO THE INJECTOR WHILST DOING THIS!! ) all good, if a little gunked up, so cleaned carefully around the head staying a few mm from the actual pin itself ( well wifey did that ) Continued to do it to all four and came back with clean sprays from all 4.

Next i removed a glow plug, earthed it with a nice thick cable to the bodywork and turned the ignition to warm up, nice n red after apprx 10 seconds on the tip, so rinse n repeated on the rest with good results ( Word of warning, leave the plug alone for a minute or 2 as they get bloody hot before refitting )

After all pipes were checked, injectors & glowplugs as well as the stop solenoid, everything was back together and we tried again. She started after a little effort and so far has been fine on the key.

However it wasn't all good, the engine was very low on oil and i know this is due to a piston being worn, but after checking plugs and injectors, number 2 piston was the original culprit, however piston 3 & 4 are showing signs of worn rings with oil on the plugs and injectors coked up quite badly.

It looks like project 200TDi will have abit more time n money on it as i'm not sure how long the ol' 19J will last and i'm not inclined to spend money on it with a 200TDi crying out for it...

In prep for the conversion looming on the horizon ( coupled with the MOT, but that's very ongoing ) i'm looking to fit the intercooler over the next week or so, the fan set up is doubled up on the switch so will need to install a secondary switch for the 2nd fan...

Time to google

*scratch's head

Not sure how or what is supposed to be happening with an intercooler fitted to a 19J ( or a 200TDi for that matter ), i get the idea of it, but coming from a bike building background, I'm a wee bit stuffed with the technicalities of car engines.

Done some Google search's, but as intercoolers are standard items for a 200TDi conversion , I'm struggling to find any hints/pics/tips on fitting one to a 19J

Any advice, links most welcome folks.

I wouldn't bother fitting it to the 19J if you're going to do the conversion to a Tdi shortly - it'll all need replumbing afterwards anyway. Have you got a Tdi radiator and frame to go with the intercooler?

instantsquid said:

I wouldn't bother fitting it to the 19J if you're going to do the conversion to a Tdi shortly - it'll all need replumbing afterwards anyway. Have you got a Tdi radiator and frame to go with the intercooler?

Click to expand...

Yes i've got the relevant radiator & intercooler plus frame, just need some tips on which pipes go where and what needs to be removed etc.