one week to get this done!!

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needed

headling for rrc electric sunroof type..ASAP

surplus....

early bonnet excellent condition..can be in primer..offers
wheels and tyres various..alloys..smiths and compo and rostyles...
2 door seats..drivers and rear excellent passengers fecked..from late model so has arm rests head restraints etc..min £100 as excellent.no ear on them..
auto box + bw..fett?????????????????????
3 speed torque flight..th350..may keep this..but ???
2 door tailgate...
2 of 2 door doors...o/s and n/s..skins fecked..but all steel excellent..NO ROT..offers
2 of 2 door door window frames..EXCELLENT.no rot, all bolt holes good,no snapped bolts in then,thread good.
****e loads of glass..keeping one of each..offers
 
poll ..

do i decal him??

ie gold..and it will be gold..range rover decals on bonnet and tailgate (i know not oe,should be raised letters..but whf)

or leave as is?

do i put "by land rover" oval on him (tailgate)

or not?
 
zen said:
poll ..

do i decal him??

ie gold..and it will be gold..range rover decals on bonnet and tailgate (i know not oe,should be raised letters..but whf)

or leave as is?

do i put "by land rover" oval on him (tailgate)

or not?
Click to expand...

I would say Range Rover front and back and the oval would look good, maybe 6.3 somewhere on the tailgate but nothing more, less is more for this one.
 
you got a spare ammeter for the center consul? mines seized and my spares fecked , out interest mr electickery expert would a fecked wobbly ammeter make my rev counter jumpy at idle ?(rev counter takes its feed from coil negative).
 
Re ammeter
Dump it do away with it altogether,they are a throw back
To dynamo times
They are a fire hazard at best.connect up a voltmeter instead!NOTE different wiring..

Re jumpy rev counter..unlikely amp meter causing problem
However i do see a POSSIBLE reason for your cutting out issue..dodgy rev counter..??or wiring to it??
 
Last edited:
its only a coil negative feed, how could it cause it? its a new wire btw.

I noticed the different wiring when I went to fit the voltmeter I though I had as a spare spare and discovered the difference, how are they a hazard and whats the fitting for a voltmeter? tryna keep it original really- as that ships sailed for you did you get an ammeter in the blue car?
 
no my 71 and 72 came with voltmeter..i think you had a choise...

but anyway,i not have one or you would be welcome..

re fire hazard..well they by their nature have to have the full current drawn or generated pass though them..(ok via shunt resistor on back) ..this means any fault on them or their wiring =smoke..so do away with.they are not nessary at all with alternator ..

to wire a voltmeter in..one side goes to earth,other side to switched ignition..

re rev counter...well the gnd side of coil is the side that switches it on and off so to speak..ie if that side is faulty the coil CANNOT make any sparks.

coil works by ...(one side goes to ignition switched live..ususally by a switched ballast resistor..in for running out for cranking)
points/ignition unit goes to earth,this puts earth on coil (neg side)..this in turn makes the circuit to coil allowing it to "charge up" the magnetic field in the coil..the coil that is switched is the primary side..the magnetic field builds up quite slowly and does not generate a spark..
.the earth on points/ignition unit is removed.(dizzy arm turning moving points to open position).this in turn means the current in the primary coil stops flowing,thus the magnetic field in the coil collapses..the collapsing magnetic field induces a large voltage in the secondary winding in the coil..this is your spark.. the field collapses very quickly..

now..if there is a fault on the primary neg side of coil..ie where the points go to..then no spark...a common cause used to be faulty condensor on dizzy,breaking down when hot..

hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
yes but you are still switching the earthy side of the coil,wether by electronics or points..so any fault there..ie on your rev counter..and no sparks..

old ammeter cables...me i would remove completly and complete the circuit..cant remember where they go,but for instance if one came from battery to ammeter and from ammeter to ignition switch,then i would run cable from battery to ignition switch,preferbly utilising one of the ammeter wires to keep it oe looking..
or you could just join the two wires from ammeter together,but that would imho be a bodge..
 
well .."big red" as he is known as now is out of workshop in a week..again..but really is i feel this time due to workshop being extended..ekkk!:eek:

so need to make room..

thinking of selling my 4 door..

1987 4 door.
lincoln green.
no rot,all done.
waxoiled etc.
+2 scorpion suspension.
corrected arms front and rear.
full lenght sunroof
muds 31's
nissan patrol 6 pot turbo diesel.intercooled..
2 bar boost.
lpg injection
upto 40mpg..really it does!..cruising at 65-70
33mph per 1000rpm in top
quicker than 3.9 v8 if you want..but dont expect 40mpg then!
never ever let me down..
24v starting.
prehaps ,though i thinkd it will remove..webasto engine heater..
more......


NOW..more importantly..do i keep bumpers silver??





also for sale......1983 gpz1100 unitrak street fighter..late running gear..wisco 1170cc big bore kit.new in box..combined good for 150hp+:D:D:D:D
 
zen said:
well .."big red" as he is known as now is out of workshop in a week..again..but really is i feel this time due to workshop being extended..ekkk!:eek:

so need to make room..

thinking of selling my 4 door..

1987 4 door.
lincoln green.
no rot,all done.
waxoiled etc.
+2 scorpion suspension.
corrected arms front and rear.
full lenght sunroof
muds 31's
nissan patrol 6 pot turbo diesel.intercooled..
2 bar boost.
lpg injection
upto 40mpg..really it does!..cruising at 65-70
33mph per 1000rpm in top
quicker than 3.9 v8 if you want..but dont expect 40mpg then!
never ever let me down..
24v starting.
prehaps ,though i thinkd it will remove..webasto engine heater..
more......
Click to expand...

what's the guide price on that?
 
hid headlights..
lovely snorkle..
tow bar..
twn exit tail pipes.
straight through 2 1/2 stainless exhaust..sounds like a mack truck!!
mot tax etc..

price...hmm have no idea..owned for years..

i really really dont want to sell ...my beautiful little girl bo (rip) loved him..and my others do so...but..i cant really keep 3....and the s/c 2 door aint going!!

so......and only put 100miles on him in 2 years...so..
 
just reminded my self of my spupidity..why oh why??



to this....

 
Last edited:
yep...

white one i thinks gonna get the flake too..it already has the cage..lol



though your link suggests **** taking..but hey i dont give a """"...
 
Last edited:
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