Dr_evil
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one week to get this done!!
- Thread starter zen
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considering options..one being use the lr fork as thats not straight but heavily curved and shorter.will give enough clearence,though mounting the slave will be a challange.
not even considering hydraulic throw out bearing as thats £300(but an elegent answer)
i will have an answer by this time tomorrow...just as of yet dont know it..lol
not even considering hydraulic throw out bearing as thats £300(but an elegent answer)
i will have an answer by this time tomorrow...just as of yet dont know it..lol
Dr_evil
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mounting as in to the housing ?
not be able to modify it as is if its shorter and mount it slightly inside the wall of the housing ?
cant really visualise it without the parts to hand though
looking forward to seeing how you do it
not be able to modify it as is if its shorter and mount it slightly inside the wall of the housing ?
cant really visualise it without the parts to hand though
looking forward to seeing how you do ithad some ideas re clutch fork..your thoughts pls..
idea one..move pivot around abit and have fork exit abit further around and lower..see pic of me holding fork..but this will get in way of oil filter so will have to remote mount filter, AND remounting pivot wont actually be that easy as metal on bellhousing aint flat there..doerble yes..
idea two...keep as is..shorten fork..mount slave behind fork..drill hole in end of fork..fit rod facing rearwards.have end of rod connected to slave pushrod..SLAVE is running parallel to rod..so actuating slave pulls on rod,thus pulling fork,thus operating clutch..rod will have to run in tube to keep it where you want it,and mount made for slave..DOWNSIDE..less lever action as fork shortened,so stiffer pedal..upside dont have to mod bellhousing..
what you recon..
pic..
idea one..move pivot around abit and have fork exit abit further around and lower..see pic of me holding fork..but this will get in way of oil filter so will have to remote mount filter, AND remounting pivot wont actually be that easy as metal on bellhousing aint flat there..doerble yes..
idea two...keep as is..shorten fork..mount slave behind fork..drill hole in end of fork..fit rod facing rearwards.have end of rod connected to slave pushrod..SLAVE is running parallel to rod..so actuating slave pulls on rod,thus pulling fork,thus operating clutch..rod will have to run in tube to keep it where you want it,and mount made for slave..DOWNSIDE..less lever action as fork shortened,so stiffer pedal..upside dont have to mod bellhousing..
what you recon..
pic..
now..this eve..mounted rear bumper..
fitted bellhousing adapter and tacked it up,ready for proper welding and then trimming and cleaning up.(outer plate still as gas torch left it)
what a barstard that was to fit up..trying to line up,balance on jack,make sure gaps equal,and weld up on ones own!
fitted bellhousing adapter and tacked it up,ready for proper welding and then trimming and cleaning up.(outer plate still as gas torch left it)
what a barstard that was to fit up..trying to line up,balance on jack,make sure gaps equal,and weld up on ones own!
Dr_evil
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hmmm well looking at it in order to keep it in its original orientation (working off imagination of where it would be normally) could you not crank the fork ?
i.e. instead of
===o===
have it so its ==o=
\
=
If you get what I mean ? so keeping the original pivot point, shorten the arm, keep the slave where it should be and then drop a cranked piece down to the slave so no cutting of bulkhead or moving the fork to a different orientation
Or if its the other way I'm seeing it with the arm going through that slot in the housing and coming out on the bellhousing side which is where your problem is coming from (slave on outside of housing)
As I was saying with a skinny arm make it out of thick 6mm sheet instead of fold so it has the rigidity and then curve it round, shorten the rod and eliminate it hitting the bulkhead that way ? May make more sense in my head than through words
i.e. instead of
===o===
have it so its ==o=
\
=
If you get what I mean ? so keeping the original pivot point, shorten the arm, keep the slave where it should be and then drop a cranked piece down to the slave so no cutting of bulkhead or moving the fork to a different orientation
Or if its the other way I'm seeing it with the arm going through that slot in the housing and coming out on the bellhousing side which is where your problem is coming from (slave on outside of housing)
As I was saying with a skinny arm make it out of thick 6mm sheet instead of fold so it has the rigidity and then curve it round, shorten the rod and eliminate it hitting the bulkhead that way ? May make more sense in my head than through words
Dr_evil
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so is it the back of the arm or the centre thats fouling as if its the rear the plate arm method could work and if its the centre cranking it a couple of times could work in an attempt to miss the bulkhead
its the end of the arm..the end furthest away from thurst bearing..its 2 inches into footwell/bulkhead..
if i was to crank it it would not give enough space for slave to fit, as arm aint long enough to give enough space if cranked, yes it would clear footwell,but then nowhere to mount slave...
so move it around, or crank it by cutting and welding..but it would have to be cranked back 6 inches i recon..
if i was to crank it it would not give enough space for slave to fit, as arm aint long enough to give enough space if cranked, yes it would clear footwell,but then nowhere to mount slave...
so move it around, or crank it by cutting and welding..but it would have to be cranked back 6 inches i recon..
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would the slave be easier to mount after cranking or after moving though thats the thing, if moved I suppose you could weld something extra onto the 6mm steel plate if it'll allow for that but then you'd also have to move the pivot wouldn't you ?
mounting the slave has to be done either way..i still need to make mounting bracket.just as easy/hard either way..so leaning towards keeping arm oe, but rotating it around..that way keeps lever length the same,does not weaken arm.....
but does mean some trickery with pivot mounting..(prehaps welding on a bolt and having it screw into 10mm plate behind bellhousing, the plate is what the chevy bellhousing bolts to, that would be quite easy) and of course remote mounting oil filter as slave would need to be mounted right where filter hangs..but i need to have oil cooler anyway,so that could easily all be done care of mr mocal's remote filter and oil cooler tale off..
but does mean some trickery with pivot mounting..(prehaps welding on a bolt and having it screw into 10mm plate behind bellhousing, the plate is what the chevy bellhousing bolts to, that would be quite easy) and of course remote mounting oil filter as slave would need to be mounted right where filter hangs..but i need to have oil cooler anyway,so that could easily all be done care of mr mocal's remote filter and oil cooler tale off..
well heres some pics..
OPTION 1..mount slave facing rear and wrk out some way of connecting so that linkage dont bend etc..
OPTION 2..slaving facing forward and use pivot arrangement..
OPTION 3..#### IT and cut footwell/bulkhead and mount fork as it should be..
pics of adapter..
cutting out floor is getting to be more attractive...lol
OPTION 1..mount slave facing rear and wrk out some way of connecting so that linkage dont bend etc..
OPTION 2..slaving facing forward and use pivot arrangement..
OPTION 3..#### IT and cut footwell/bulkhead and mount fork as it should be..
pics of adapter..
cutting out floor is getting to be more attractive...lol
Dr_evil
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Hmmm, will the cut in the floor be visible ? or could you drop the engine height slightly to allow clearance ? or would that be a no go
Dr_evil
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Hmm cut and keep the bit incase you change engine back ?
simplest option then isn't it
simplest option then isn't it
stutab
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Cut the floor sounds the best idea to me.
Will open the caliper and take the seal out today.
Will open the caliper and take the seal out today.
fett
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out of interest bud, how healthy is that engine? do you know the bloke etc?
thats quite the adapter, was it not out of a landy conversion in the end? has the boss kicked you outside yet?
Its looking good, well bar the red paint
thats quite the adapter, was it not out of a landy conversion in the end? has the boss kicked you outside yet?
Its looking good, well bar the red paint
still inside!!engine is very good i hope..its hada rebuild and is ex us military..hopefully us mil rebuild..
no not outa landie...us army k5
roof stuck down..sunroof installed..wings taken off for waxing under..
seat mounts played with,but not finished,still bracing and surround to make..but getting there..
roof was a barstard!
seat base bits welded on wont be that long..but thought best make tooooo long rather than oh feck too short..lol
no not outa landie...us army k5
roof stuck down..sunroof installed..wings taken off for waxing under..
seat mounts played with,but not finished,still bracing and surround to make..but getting there..
roof was a barstard!
seat base bits welded on wont be that long..but thought best make tooooo long rather than oh feck too short..lol
