Once I reach in and whip it out....what should I do with it?

Saint.V8 · Feb 25, 2017

Oh er missus..!!!

Once I pull out my throbbing and leaking......engine (300Tdi) to replace the core plugs (rear one leaking - yay) once it is out aside from the core plugs and the rear crank seal....what else would you consider doing to it while it is san-gearbox and vehicle attached?

neilly · Feb 25, 2017

Something to think about doing along the way is the timing belt.

Also a good opportunity to remove the intercooler and clean it out.

Flush the heater box and rad, as you will be dropping the coolant.

Drop the sump and give it a good clean and then check everything you can see from the bottom of the engine.

Cheers

Saint.V8 · Feb 25, 2017

timimg belt done (and How To written in Tech Archive) about 2 weeks ago....

Like the idea of flushing the I/C and Sump.

Littelwill · Feb 25, 2017

Just a thought but fit a new clutch? If engines out it might be worth it?

Paul D · Feb 25, 2017

As above, but also ... Good general clean, then check the oil pipes into and out of the engine side, next to the filter. The pipe flanges begin to leak. Similarly the cyclone filter (forget it's correct name, the stub into the engine O-ring fails, so new O-ring and smear of silicone sealer to help it along. Check the exhaust manifold nuts and studs, especially the one nearest the bulkhead, mine came loose and eventually sounded like the engine tapping!

Definitely check the clutch release arm and if it looks at all worn, replace +release bearing and maybe clutch! Check flywheel flatness at the same time.

I'd also (which I didn't do, hence this!) remove and refurbish the starter motor. Remove, clean or replace any engine/chassis earth straps, check all mounts that the rubber isn't cracked. Also while there's space in the engine compartment, clean, check, re-paint/underseal/whatever all the area, see if anything's about to go from surface rust to 'Oh sheet' ...

I'd also, if they're not recent, replace the fuel spill pipes at the injectors, old and cracked cause no end of starting and slow running issues.

Turboman · Feb 25, 2017

Paul D said:
As above, but also ... Good general clean, then check the oil pipes into and out of the engine side, next to the filter. The pipe flanges begin to leak. Similarly the cyclone filter (forget it's correct name, the stub into the engine O-ring fails, so new O-ring and smear of silicone sealer to help it along. Check the exhaust manifold nuts and studs, especially the one nearest the bulkhead, mine came loose and eventually sounded like the engine tapping!

Definitely check the clutch release arm and if it looks at all worn, replace +release bearing and maybe clutch! Check flywheel flatness at the same time.

I'd also (which I didn't do, hence this!) remove and refurbish the starter motor. Remove, clean or replace any engine/chassis earth straps, check all mounts that the rubber isn't cracked. Also while there's space in the engine compartment, clean, check, re-paint/underseal/whatever all the area, see if anything's about to go from surface rust to 'Oh sheet' ...

I'd also, if they're not recent, replace the fuel spill pipes at the injectors, old and cracked cause no end of starting and slow running issues.

+1 on all of that. I would change the clutch, all of it, if in any doubt whatsoever. It is gutting when the release bearing or cover plate goes in a few k and you have to take it all apart again.

neilly · Feb 25, 2017

Oh I have one.........................

I would try and remove the glow plugs, if they come out OK, no problems , if they do not, then while it is out you can have the broken one, tight one replaced.

Cheers

Once I reach in and whip it out....what should I do with it?

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

neilly

Well-Known Member

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Littelwill

Well-Known Member

Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

Turboman

Mab An Gov

neilly

Well-Known Member

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