Oil warning light and poor braking

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Just thought i would mention you say its a 2001 car so should have the 10p engine? but your pics show the egr cooler which I didnt think came out until the later 15p lump which also had the twin flaps in the egr valve widget?
Mine was a 2001 Y reg model and it didnt have the cooler.
 
lynall said:
Just thought i would mention you say its a 2001 car so should have the 10p engine? but your pics show the egr cooler which I didnt think came out until the later 15p lump which also had the twin flaps in the egr valve widget?
Mine was a 2001 Y reg model and it didnt have the cooler.
Click to expand...

Just for fun, Mine is a '53 plate 15P engine and it never had the cooler fitted......:D:D:D

Cheers
 
I just googled it and the Alive tuning site reckons very late td5 manuals did not have the cooler for some reason?
 
lynall said:
I just googled it and the Alive tuning site reckons very late td5 manuals did not have the cooler for some reason?
Click to expand...

Correct, plus they are missing the connection pipe out of the back of the oil cooler that goes to the steel pipe around the back of the engine. I reckon LR ran out of the parts....LOL

Cheers
 
Neilly thanks for the link, It looks like a good description which I will read when I get home from work. The guides look fine but if they are cheap I will probably replace them, don't want to throw too much money at it until I know it survived.
The car is a 51 plate Auto but not sure of date of manufacture.
 
Well the disco lives to fight another day (i think). Got it all back together at 8:30 tonight and it started 1st time. Oil pressure and brakes all good, need to go for a decent test drive but all looking good. :)

Thanks for the help and advice.
 
Very lucky indeed.

There is an oil feed to the alternator that I believe provides the vacuum for the brake servo. I need to research it to fully undersand it.

Edited: Looks like it's just for lubrication so no idea why it should have made a difference.
 
Last edited:
Due to the huge demand for photos (neilly) here are a few more.:)

This is the view once the timing chain cover was removed. Note the little oil pipe to the left just above the belt tensioner that comes from the alternator. This was secured by one of those crimped clips so had to be cut off and replaced with a jubilee clip.
I also ended up removing that cannister thingy me bob at the top of the picture cos it was getting in my way.

Timing chain 1.jpg



From the underside you can see where the new chain has to go.

Timing chain 2.jpg



Here you can see the slack in the timing chain once the tensioner is undone and the sprocket removed from the camshaft.

Timing chain 3.jpg



New chain, sprocket and bolt fitted.

Oil pump.jpg




Putting it back together was just the reverse but with lots of swearing and googling for torque settings and bolt tightening sequences, plus some more swearing and some more googling.

I know it's not the best how to guide but it was all done in bits and pieces as time allowed so documenting it was done on a best efforts, total time I reckon to be a good couple of days work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
Transmission temperature warning light
2
Replies
29
Views
772
pwd281
pwd281
L
FLICKERING BRAKE PAD WARNING LIGHT WHEN HANDBRAKE APPLIED??
Replies
11
Views
576
lrjohn
L
A
1995 Discovery 300TDI Engine Issue - Thoughts
Replies
2
Views
516
shaynecm
S
rover75lover
l 322 brakes
Replies
2
Views
544
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
B
Heavy black smoke and very poor fuel economy
Replies
19
Views
2K
MJI
MJI
Back
Top